Builds 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup (1 Viewer)

[Will Van]

I have a small update on my interior and A/C install. As most of you know, I purchased @joekatana's awesome A/C kit for the 1HZ. Although a perfectly acceptable kit right out of the box, I wanted to make the install a bit more elegant. You have seen most of the recent updates which focused on the hard-line plubming in the engine bay. But another area I wanted to focus on was the interior.

The OEM control panel for trucks with factory A/C includes a dual knob for the A/C compressor controls. The front portion of the knob controls the fan, and the rear portion of the knob controls the A/C compressor. You can see an example here from a RHD truck with factory A/C controls.

The non-A/C trucks do not have this feature. It is simply a single knob to control the fan speed.

Joe's kit resolves this issue with a universal "on/off" A/C switch. On Joe's kit, the A/C compressor is simply engaged or disengaged via the push-button switch, and you control the desired temperature by adjusting the fan speed, or adding heat to the A/C mix. The architecture is perfectly acceptable, I was just hoping to install a switch that better matched the interior.

The HVAC controls also have a switch blank that is typically used for the "Security" indicator on models equipped with that option.

My truck was bare-bones spec and didn't include the indicator, just a switch blank. I thought this would be the perfect location for an OEM-looking switch.

The switch-blank is the same dimensions as the 1st gen 4Runner "Deck Lamp" switches. These are perfect because they are readily available on EBay for a few bucks, and they include an indicator lamp to illuminate when the switch is in the "On" position (presumably when the A/C compressor is engaged). But I wasn't crazy about the "Deck Lamp" script.

Luckily, member @63FST sells dry-transfer decals in any script you can imagine. Mo was kind enough to make a custom script for my application, and the results are fantastic. I just followed the instructions he included, and the results came out great!

I expect I will continue to use these Deck Lamp switches for various other auxiliary items like lights or OBA. Mo offers tons of options for the script, and wiring is simple as long as you include a relay. I still need to finish wiring my A/C switch, but I am waiting on other components to come in before I can finish install.

 

[bottombracket]

Will, This is really funny, and really perfect timing. I am retrofitting my factory AC in my 74 series but just cannot find the trigger switch wiring. I was contemplating adding an A/C on-off switch, and was wondering about getting a custom sticker made. Thanks for solving the problem!

 

[Will Van]

I was also able to finalize install on @ChaserFJ60's custom gauge din bezel piece. Chase was a pleasure to work with, and I highly recommend him for any custom 3D printing projects. I believe Chase is going to offer the gauge bezel for sale soon on his website: Cruiser Head Parts for Toyota Land Cruisers - https://cruiserhead.com/

My only criticism has nothing to do with Chase and was completely my fault. I tried to choose AutoMeter gauges that substantially matched my existing instrument cluster - black background, white script, with red needle. I didn't realize until I flipped on the lights that the AutoMeter gauges illuminate with red LED. Doh!

I'll probably just live with it for now.

 

[Will Van]

Will, This is really funny, and really perfect timing. I am retrofitting my factory AC in my 74 series but just cannot find the trigger switch wiring. I was contemplating adding an A/C on-off switch, and was wondering about getting a custom sticker made. Thanks for solving the problem!

You're welcome, Galen!

I actually have a spare switch with A/C script. I didn't realize until I went to install that one of the mounting tabs was broken on the swtich. It won't stay seated perfectly, but I'm sure you could figure out a workaround. Either way, it's yours for free if you want it.

 

[Honger]

Well, I tried my luck at brazing stainless. Finished plumbing the A/C lines in the engine bay.

I still need to finish interior, flush the lines, pull vacuum, confirm it’s holding pressure, and add refrigerant.

Plus finish radio and gauge install.

That is sexy... so much cleaner than the freakin' hoses running all over the place (ie. my trucks).

What supplies/tools do you need for stainless steel brazing?

 

[Honger]

I was also able to finalize install on @ChaserFJ60's custom gauge din bezel piece. Chase was a pleasure to work with, and I highly recommend him for any custom 3D printing projects. I believe Chase is going to offer the gauge bezel for sale soon on his website: Cruiser Head Parts for Toyota Land Cruisers - https://cruiserhead.com/

My only criticism has nothing to do with Chase and was completely my fault. I tried to choose AutoMeter gauges that substantially matched my existing instrument cluster - black background, white script, with red needle. I didn't realize until I flipped on the lights that the AutoMeter gauges illuminate with red LED. Doh!

I'll probably just live with it for now.

With all the beautification you are doing... you really need to order new OEM screws to mount all the bezels. No more crusty screw heads. Ha!

 

[Will Van]

That is sexy... so much cleaner than the freakin' hoses running all over the place (ie. my trucks).

What supplies/tools do you need for stainless steel brazing?

Thanks!

I followed this video:

They're brazing banjo fittings, but the principal is the same.

I purchased the stainless steel A/C fittings directly from Vintage Air: Hose Kits and Fittings - Vintage Air - https://www.vintageair.com/hose-kits-fittings/?subcat1=Stainless%20Steel%20Line%20Kits&subcat2=Stainless%20Hardline%20Parts

You can also purchase the stainless tubing from Vintage Air, but it is way less expensive from Speedy Metals: Speedy Metals Online Industrial Metal Supply - https://www.speedymetals.com/

Just make sure you get the proper specs. Match the specs on the Vintage Air website to the tubing you're buying from Speedy Metals (#6 lines use 5/16" tubing, #8 lines use 3/8" tubing, and #10 lines use 1/2" tubing. All at 0.035 inch wall thickness annealed).

You will also need:

• MAPP Gas
• Stay-Silv Black High-Temp Flux
• 56% Silver Solder
• Sandpaper (to prep and clean up the joints)

I got everything off Amazon. The trick is to get everything very clean, apply the appropriate amount of flux, and heat it thoroughly and evenly. You want it to start turning faint/dark red. If you get it cherry red hot, it's too hot and will push the solder out.



For the soft lines, I bought my fittings from Cold Hose: Cold Hose - https://coldhose.com/

I bought my soft hose crimper off Amazon too.




Full disclosure - I have not pressure-tested any of the lines yet. So there is a distinct possibility that they leak and don't work for sh*t.

 

[Will Van]

With all the beautification you are doing... you really need to order new OEM screws to mount all the bezels. No more crusty screw heads. Ha!

I agree 100%. But I'm getting into some mission creep and I'm trying to keep on-budget. The crusty screws work for now, and I can make it prettier after I get it back on the road.


...I would much rather have 3.7 diff gears and Harrop e-lockers than pretty bezel screws. Every penny counts!

 

[joekatana]

I agree 100%. But I'm getting into some mission creep and I'm trying to keep on-budget. The crusty screws work for now, and I can make it prettier after I get it back on the road.


...I would much rather have 3.7 diff gears and Harrop e-lockers than pretty bezel screws. Every penny counts!

I always have a hard time understanding why anyone wants to run a 1HZ with 3.70 gears unless you want to keep oem tire size and want to cruise at 80 mph ? There is a reason why the only two diesels that came with 3,7 from the factory where direct injected Turbo diesels combined with manual trans .

 

[coldtaco]

Following along on your AC install. I installed the AC switch from my HJ to my lhd HVAC controls. Been wondering how to make that switch work with the AC. Do I run two wires from my switch to the two leads on the AC box under the dash? What’s the switch do that has the two leads on it? I would get a picture but it’s all closed up right now

 

[63FST]

@Will Van -- Fantastic work on your interior

Appreciate your pictures & stay in touch with custom requests -- Anyone else also welcome to contact me.

Thanks again,

Mo

 

[Honger]

I always have a hard time understanding why anyone wants to run a 1HZ with 3.70 gears unless you want to keep oem tire size and want to cruise at 80 mph ? There is a reason why the only two diesels that came with 3,7 from the factory where direct injected Turbo diesels combined with manual trans .

I'm going to pile on here a bit... just don't see the 3.7's as an ideal solution for this truck.
I'm completely happy with the 4.11's in my Troopy (granted mine's a 3F).

 

[Will Van]

I always have a hard time understanding why anyone wants to run a 1HZ with 3.70 gears unless you want to keep oem tire size and want to cruise at 80 mph ? There is a reason why the only two diesels that came with 3,7 from the factory where direct injected Turbo diesels combined with manual trans .

I'm going to pile on here a bit... just don't see the 3.7's as an ideal solution for this truck.
I'm completely happy with the 4.11's in my Troopy (granted mine's a 3F).

I am running 235/85/16 tires. Maybe I should have up-sized to 255/85/16, but hindsight is 20-20. Lots of national tire installers, like Discount Tire or Costco, refuse to install a tire outside the recommended rim width. Which is why I chose the 235.

I am also running Georg's 4:1 t-case gears, which reduces 5th gear high by 10%.

So the 3.7 diff gears simply get me back to the stock final drive ratio in high gear. And I have better low-range gearing than the stock 2:1 t-case the truck came with.

But I am open to suggestions and discussion. Perhaps instead of the 3.7s, you would suggest just swapping to a taller tire for some "rubber overdrive"?

 

[Will Van]

Following along on your AC install. I installed the AC switch from my HJ to my lhd HVAC controls. Been wondering how to make that switch work with the AC. Do I run two wires from my switch to the two leads on the AC box under the dash? What’s the switch do that has the two leads on it? I would get a picture but it’s all closed up right now

Apologies, I am not as well versed in the OEM A/C wiring since I am working with an aftermarket unit. Joe's kit simply runs a relay and a switch to the compressor. It's just "Off" or "On". There is a t-stat on the evaporator core, but it's just to prevent the unit from freezing up.

 

[joekatana]

I am running 235/85/16 tires. Maybe I should have up-sized to 255/85/16, but hindsight is 20-20. Lots of national tire installers, like Discount Tire or Costco, refuse to install a tire outside the recommended rim width. Which is why I chose the 235.

I am also running Georg's 4:1 t-case gears, which reduces 5th gear high by 10%.

So the 3.7 diff gears simply get me back to the stock final drive ratio in high gear. And I have better low-range gearing than the stock 2:1 t-case the truck came with.

But I am open to suggestions and discussion. Perhaps instead of the 3.7s, you would suggest just swapping to a taller tire for some "rubber overdrive"?

I think if you go to 255/85R16 you will be happy , I avoid those big tire chains for that reason and give a local mom and pop shop my tire business and inspections.

 

[Will Van]

I think if you go to 255/85R16 you will be happy , I avoid those big tire chains for that reason and give a local mom and pop shop my tire business and inspections.

Good feedback, thanks.

I agree, I prefer to spend my money at small local businesses anyway. I just didn't want to get stranded somewhere because a national brand refused to mount a new tire on a "too narrow" rim. But I suppose any town with a Costco or Discount Tire is going to have a small tire shop anyway.


...anybody need some gently used 235/85/16s?

 

[Honger]

Apologies, I am not as well versed in the OEM A/C wiring since I am working with an aftermarket unit. Joe's kit simply runs a relay and a switch to the compressor. It's just "Off" or "On". There is a t-stat on the evaporator core, but it's just to prevent the unit from freezing up.

The OEM A/C switch interfaces with an AC controller that adjusts how intermittent/constant the compressor is. So if you have the AC knob turned to the smaller blue line, or lower, it cycles off more often. It's a nice feature... not just on/off for the AC.

 

[coldtaco]

I don’t know why any shop would give you grief if you wanted to install 255/85/16 on the rims that you have the 235/85/16 installed on? Are they not about the same width? I was at Costco one time and over heard a sales person tell a customer over the phone that they would install any size tire on a rim if the rim was brought in separately, logic being they won’t know what vehicle you are going to be putting them on. Don’t know if this helps or not.

 

[Will Van]

I don’t know why any shop would give you grief if you wanted to install 255/85/16 on the rims that you have the 235/85/16 installed on? Are they not about the same width? I was at Costco one time and over heard a sales person tell a customer over the phone that they would install any size tire on a rim if the rim was brought in separately, logic being they won’t know what vehicle you are going to be putting them on. Don’t know if this helps or not.

All tires have a recommended rim width for install. Most shops don’t care. They’ll put whatever size tire on whatever size wheel you have, assuming it will actually fit.

But the national tire shops are more picky due to liability.

For example, my OEM Toyota steel wheels are 16” diameter x 6” width. The recommended rim width range on a 255/85/16 BGF Mud Terrain is 6.5” to 8” rim width. The majority of tire shops wouldn’t blink an eye, they would just install the 255 tire on the 6” wide wheel.

However, it is likely that Discount Tire (or Costco, or NTB, or whatever national chain) would refuse to install the 255, because the tire width is 1/2” out of spec. Silly, I know.

But again, I didn’t want to be stranded in a situation where I needed a replacement tire mounted on my 6” wide wheels, and the only available shop was a national chain that refused because it was outside of spec.

So I went with the 235/85/16 tires because they are much more common and cheaper (and the recommended rim width range is within spec at 6” to 7.5”).

None of this really matters though, because I have a brand new set of 235/85/16 tires on my truck right now. And my wife would murder me if I showed up with a set of new tires.

 

[FJ73Texas]

Any big name tire shop with a competent manager is going to follow the rules by rim width and tire width, not if the wheels are brought in loose or mounted on vehicle.

People tried this before when I worked at discount years ago, I just told the ones wanting rather odd and forbidden tire and wheel combinations to go to the “south side” to some mom and pop shop because it won’t get mounted here.