1996 FZJ80 Radiator replaced - FACTS (1 Viewer)

Joined
Mar 4, 2011
Messages
105
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I spent the past 8 hours replacing my cracked radiator, hoses & thermostat. I wish I took some pics but here are a few things to definitely know. Be prepared to loosen or completely remove the passenger side headlight, front grille, fan, battery and battery tray, upper cross brace, underneath shield that sits right above the steering damper and manifold cover. A few plugs will have to be undone as well. My cruiser has 170k miles and has never had the radiator or thermostat replaced. With that being said, you may want to have a breaker-bar handy. I needed it to loosen the nuts on the thermostat housing.
I went with a Koyo replacement radiator. It fit PERFECTLY! Couldn't be more pleased with this radiator. I'm running 30/70(coolant/distilled water) considering it's already hitting up in the 70's.
This was a fund and rewarding project. You need patience and small hands are a plus! As for tools, definitely have both 10mm and 12mm sockets and ratchet wrenches. Good set of pliers to remove the existing clamps. depending on your mileage, I would buy all 3 new tubes. They are only $15/each. Radiator cost me $230, coolant $25/gl, thermostat $30. The dealer would have charged me $650 for the radiator and $230 to install.
Always remember to wear protective eyewear and gloves when working with coolant and/or under your Cruiser.
 

jfz80

Spicy
Joined
Jun 5, 2005
Messages
12,101
Location
Madison NC
 
 
 
Its nice when projects go well huh?

Ill be doing the same here but am hesitant to run the koyo with the SC. I feel the Koyo is fine but am nervous about shortcutting any part of the cooling system.

BTW there are a couple good threads I searched that explain how to remove the radiator without removing the head lights and the "upper cross brace" you mention can be a real pain to line back up properly if any body work or damage has ever been present. The patience and small hands were where I was struggling most :D well that and paying for it and seeing the leaky PS pump that is so accessible at the moment.

So you got a 96, where did it fail? plastic top tank?
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
3,575
Location
Richmond, VA
When I did my rad I did not have to remove the battery or tray to access the frame bolt below the Batt tray I just drilled a 3/4 hole through the bottom of the tray to access the bolt worked like a charm:hillbilly:
I did unbolt all the front lights and left them hanging
And I did not remove the upper cross brace either.
I was glad when I finished mine.
 

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