1995 fzj80 - Need a new Radiator

[jjdeneen918]

^^^^^this^^^^^

They quoted me $1105 plus shipping before the Corona Chan happened...however they will honor a military discount for $55.00 off.

yup. I got about the same price, but ordered 2. For me & a friend. Saved on shipping too I believe.

 

[exakt0h]

I think thats the one I ended up with!

Crazy b/c I replaced all hoses, thermostat, new wits end blue fan clutch, PHH bypass, rear heater bypass and installed a water temp sensor (glowshift) on the upper rad hose. I'm getting 180-183 city driving temps, doesn't go above. Not sure if that's the accurate "real temp" but I stopped looking at my dash temp lol

 

[Benbmore3d]

Crazy b/c I replaced all hoses, thermostat, wits end blue clutch and installed a water temp sensor (glowshift) on the upper rad hose. I'm getting 180-183 city driving temps, doesn't go above. Not sure if that's the accurate "real temp" but I stopped looking at my dash temp lol

Those are my excite upgrades coming. Along with new oil gaskets, distributor, rotor, cables, power steering reservoir, battery cables, etc. Then its onto suspension . I also got the Ultragauge unit that plugs onto the obd2. Curious how that will work.

 

[exakt0h]

Those are my excite upgrades coming. Along with new oil gaskets, distributor, rotor, cables, power steering reservoir, battery cables, etc. Then its onto suspension . I also got the Ultragauge unit that plugs onto the obd2. Curious how that will work.

Going to be fun, goodluck on the PHH bypass and rear heater bypass part. You'll learn new cuss words. HAHAHA

 

[Road Apple]

Going to be fun, goodluck on the PHH bypass and rear heater bypass part. You'll learn new cuss words. HAHAHA

I’m replacing the same. Any tools or techniques that you suggest to keep the cuss words to a minimum?

 

[baldilocks]

I’m replacing the same. Any tools or techniques that you suggest to keep the cuss words at a minimum?

None of this is rocket surgery and not even all that inconvenient. Remove the drivers side front tire and the rubber splash guard to gain access. The smaller you are the easier the PHH job will be. I routed my section of hose from the head up to the hearer valve inboard of the brake booster. This is actually easier than doing a standard PHH replacement because it eliminates 4 clamps. It should take no more than 30 minutes once access has been gained. The rear heater bypass is a piece of cake.

 

[clx16]

This makes taking the lower bracket bolt loose with ease for the PHH and i used dialectic grease to help the replacement hoses slide back on.

 

[kcwvu]

I realize that this thread is years stale, but since it was helpful to me, thought I'd share my radiator story. I went with El Cheapo from Amazon for $250. The Ron Davis unit is now $1,500, so that is out of my price range

Amazon title: "4 Row Aluminum Radiator For 1993-1997 94 95 96 Toyota Land Cruiser LX450 4.5L L6 AT MT 93-94 95 96 All Aluminum Radiators"

Here is my review:
The radiator looks much thicker than the stock unit and hopefully the welds hold up to off-roading. Most welds look really nice, only exception is the filler on the top. The other areas where hoses attach are slightly off with their angle and length. Some, like the overflow are an inch off. Others like the top hose to the engine are at an angle that is slightly off and it puts tension on the hose that was not there before. It is installed and works, but I am concerned about these compromises over time

 

[CharlieS]

I hate to state the obvious, but you have purchased aftermarket parts, so should expect to do some "custom" work. Trim the hoses as needed. All will be right with the world again.

 

[dturner]

I realize that this thread is years stale, but since it was helpful to me, thought I'd share my radiator story. I went with El Cheapo from Amazon for $250. The Ron Davis unit is now $1,500, so that is out of my price range

Amazon title: "4 Row Aluminum Radiator For 1993-1997 94 95 96 Toyota Land Cruiser LX450 4.5L L6 AT MT 93-94 95 96 All Aluminum Radiators"

Here is my review:
The radiator looks much thicker than the stock unit and hopefully the welds hold up to off-roading. Most welds look really nice, only exception is the filler on the top. The other areas where hoses attach are slightly off with their angle and length. Some, like the overflow are an inch off. Others like the top hose to the engine are at an angle that is slightly off and it puts tension on the hose that was not there before. It is installed and works, but I am concerned about these compromises over time


I know it’s only been a few months, how’s the radiator working for you? Any average temp differences?

 

[kcwvu]

Hi @dturner , I have been on several off roading trips since replacing my radiator and the new unit is holding up well. On my last outing, it was 117 degrees and there were no overheating issues. I never had overheating issues with the stock radiator either. I did notice that the new radiator takes more coolant than the stock unit, so the extra volume is likely an added bonus. I agree that it would be nice if some adjustments in manufacturing were made to avoid stretching the hoses. I hope the new radiator treats you well.

 

[joccomalone]

Hi @dturner , I have been on several off roading trips since replacing my radiator and the new unit is holding up well. On my last outing, it was 117 degrees and there were no overheating issues. I never had overheating issues with the stock radiator either. I did notice that the new radiator takes more coolant than the stock unit, so the extra volume is likely an added bonus. I agree that it would be nice if some adjustments in manufacturing were made to avoid stretching the hoses. I hope the new radiator treats you well.

Glad to hear. I am soon to be in the market for a new radiator and I’ve heard get metal. Someone replaced the crank seal before I got it (not a LC person because they didn’t replace the oil pump seal) and beat the radiator like a red headed step child.
I’ll be looking for this one for sure.

 

[ghostofamerica]

Cruiser corps has an OEM reproduction

Radiator - Reproduction - FJ80 1993-1997

Fits 1993-1997 FZJ80 (Toyota Landcruiser and Lexus LX450) - Replace your cracked, leaky, OEM radiator with this High Quality, Heavy-Duty aftermarket 3-core radiator. Your Landcruiser's engine will thank you! This is a direct bolt-on unit that includes an OE style integrated transmission oil...

cruisercorps.com

here’s a couple part numbers also


1993-1994 FZJ80 Brass 3 row Radiator: 16400-66040 (will fit '95-'97 also)
1995-1997 FZJ80 2 row aluminum radiator: 16400-66081 (for reference)

I just went through some discomfort with this company. They sent me three in a row with the exact same defect. They say they will refund me, but blame me for being too picky since according to Mike, "every radiator comes with some minor imperfections." Would you accept this for $500? Also, they told me it was heavy duty all brass construction.

 

[ranma21]

I just went through some discomfort with this company. They sent me three in a row with the exact same defect. They say they will refund me, but blame me for being too picky since according to Mike, "every radiator comes with some minor imperfections." Would you accept this for $500? Also, they told me it was heavy duty all brass construction.

View attachment 3876221

That is clearly shipping damaged, looks like that side was impacted/ dropped during transit due to insufficient protection. I have seen OE Toyota radiator for 200 series distorted picking up from then dealer as well but as severe. But 80 series OE unit usually good if packaged well. Most vendor doesn’t do a good job unfortunately.

 

[clx16]

I use a brass radiator. Doesn't look like aluminum and plastic.....

 

[NeverFinis]

I just went through some discomfort with this company. They sent me three in a row with the exact same defect. They say they will refund me, but blame me for being too picky since according to Mike, "every radiator comes with some minor imperfections." Would you accept this for $500? Also, they told me it was heavy duty all brass construction.

View attachment 3876221

View attachment 3876222

As you know, obviously not brass.

I don't think the damage has any functional impact, but it is also not acceptable. It almost looks like the core was damaged preassembly and the manufacture just went with it..

 

[Marco Lau]

I would go with factory or TYC unit for the 1FZ. Ron Davis and other aftermarket radiator is much thicker. and although they are excellent in cooling and all, the 1" thicker core means your factory clutch fan and hub 1" closer to the back of the radiator itself and if you rig see alot of rocks like mine have, you have to make sure your engine mounts and tranny mounts are in excellent shape because your fan is now 1" closer to the radiator. I have had 2 blown radiators in the past and one happened to be at the Rubicon coming down Cadalliac HIlls and had to source a Napa unit from Tahoe City, which had me stranded for a couple days. Just be careful and understanding the clearance issues if you opt for aftermarket alum. units. Obviously for most overlanding application, this isn't much an issue for most. And that is the exact reasons i ditched the factory clutch fan and went with elec. fans setup..... just my .02