Mr.Bryan said:
Can you please post a pics with the console on? Tks
Sent from my DroidCruiser
1995 fzj80 5.3/4l60e/np203/splitcase swap
- Thread starter Mr.Bryan
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Can you please post a pics with the console on? Tks
Sent from my DroidCruiser
- Thread starter
- #42
No problem, as soon as its all together. I'm waiting for a different gate for the shifter so its all temporary.
Exhaust shop did a crappy job and has to redo a section. He ran it under the tcase and I told him not to so that has to get fixed otherwise it'll get destroyed in 10min of wheeling.
Waiting on wiring right now. Stupid postal service is making me miss the event I was planning on attending.
Exhaust shop did a crappy job and has to redo a section. He ran it under the tcase and I told him not to so that has to get fixed otherwise it'll get destroyed in 10min of wheeling.
Waiting on wiring right now. Stupid postal service is making me miss the event I was planning on attending.
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How complex is the wiring? I thought GM drivetrains pretty much operated on a stand alone system. Are you keeping the AC too?
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- #44
Yea, it basically is. I just had no idea about integrating the GM to toy harness so it starts when I turn the key. Rockrod sent me a schematic for it which ill post up here if he doesn't mind. I'm going to tweak the wiring colors on it to match the 95.
It doesn't seem so bad any more. Got the wiring harness in so I'm going to install it this week. I'll post up here with more details a little bit later.
It doesn't seem so bad any more. Got the wiring harness in so I'm going to install it this week. I'll post up here with more details a little bit later.
no worries! post away
I would have done it myself but I lack the free time to clean it up.
- Thread starter
- #46
Been working on a bunch of loose ends. Modified the trans pan for clearance with the front drive shaft, been working on running the wires in a nice pretty manner, I have to lengthen a few of them as they don't reach and I have one or two connectors that I don't know what to do with. I'm going to call Jon at PSI tomorrow.
The air intake was giving me a problem because of the way the water pump neck thing sits so I chopped off the top portion of that and I'm going to use a copper 90 on it so I can keep it out of the way of the intake and make everything fit nice and smoothly.
I just ordered a helton heat exchanger I'm going to plumb into the coolant lines as well so I'll have some hot water for showers out on longer trips. Fedex says friday for the arrival.
A/C is on the list of things to have done before june 1st. Shouldn't be too bad. I know a guy with an a/c shop and I'm going to see what he can do to get it working.
Any suggestions on where to mount the ECU and the TAC? Is the unit weather proof or if it gets wet is that a really bad thing?
The air intake was giving me a problem because of the way the water pump neck thing sits so I chopped off the top portion of that and I'm going to use a copper 90 on it so I can keep it out of the way of the intake and make everything fit nice and smoothly.
I just ordered a helton heat exchanger I'm going to plumb into the coolant lines as well so I'll have some hot water for showers out on longer trips. Fedex says friday for the arrival.
A/C is on the list of things to have done before june 1st. Shouldn't be too bad. I know a guy with an a/c shop and I'm going to see what he can do to get it working.
Any suggestions on where to mount the ECU and the TAC? Is the unit weather proof or if it gets wet is that a really bad thing?
I put the TAC on the driver side by the hood hinge mount and made a mount for the ECU and put it on the passenger fender. GM put the ECU on the drivers fender.
- Thread starter
- #48
Nice yeah I'm going to run something similar.
Next issue, I can't read... Relays. Trying to figure out how to wire the relay for the torque converter.
If I understand correctly, 30 gets 12v and it connects to 87 which goes to the trans when 86 gets 12v from the brakes it switches to 87a which cuts 12v to the trans and then 85 and 87a is grounded?
Next issue, I can't read... Relays. Trying to figure out how to wire the relay for the torque converter.
If I understand correctly, 30 gets 12v and it connects to 87 which goes to the trans when 86 gets 12v from the brakes it switches to 87a which cuts 12v to the trans and then 85 and 87a is grounded?
you want it to CUT power to the PCM when the brakes are applied. So you will use 85 as the power from the brake light switch, 86 to ground, 30 to keyed power source, and 87a to the PCM TC input wire. This will cut the power to the PCM when you hit the brakes because when the relay is tripped by the brake lights, it's not sending voltage to the PCM.
refer to this web site for the PCM harness info:
Wiring Harness Information
refer to this web site for the PCM harness info:
Wiring Harness Information
Maybe I missed it somewhere but will this combo 5.3/4l60e/np203/adaptor/splitcase fit in an 80 without mods to the gas tank??? or will ib be too long and the tank will have to be cut or moved??
- Thread starter
- #51
Thanks guys. Got it.
Total length if the drivetrain is 8" shorter than stock. I had to have the rear drive shaft lengthened and there's enough room for me to run the exhaust pipe between the 60 case and the gas tank.
Total length if the drivetrain is 8" shorter than stock. I had to have the rear drive shaft lengthened and there's enough room for me to run the exhaust pipe between the 60 case and the gas tank.
So even with an extra t-case and adapter it is shorter than stock??
- Thread starter
- #53
Hey guys just want to clarify a couple things before I turn the key and blow myself self up.
Starter gets the 12v from positive on battery and is grounded right to the block and the starter solonoid is triggered by the wire from ih1?
Also, connecting the battery and alternator? Do I use the Toyota connection from the fuse box to the alternator and then also hook the positive end of the Toyota harness to the positive side of the battery (the other part that comes from the fuse box with the fusable link)? That being the case the Toyota side of this would still be responsible for charging the battery?
Other than that and mounting a few odds and ends, were ready to rock and roll! Hopefully the brakes work...
Starter gets the 12v from positive on battery and is grounded right to the block and the starter solonoid is triggered by the wire from ih1?
Also, connecting the battery and alternator? Do I use the Toyota connection from the fuse box to the alternator and then also hook the positive end of the Toyota harness to the positive side of the battery (the other part that comes from the fuse box with the fusable link)? That being the case the Toyota side of this would still be responsible for charging the battery?
Other than that and mounting a few odds and ends, were ready to rock and roll! Hopefully the brakes work...
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I wired mine so that yes - the start wire from the IH1 triggers the solenoid. I ran new cables - pos to starter and negative to the block.
The alternator charging on mine is controlled by the vortec PCM. I did not reconnect the alternator control wires for the toyota. The fusible link connections go to the battery pos and I ran a new charge cable from the pos post of the alt to the battery (it's big).
The alternator charging on mine is controlled by the vortec PCM. I did not reconnect the alternator control wires for the toyota. The fusible link connections go to the battery pos and I ran a new charge cable from the pos post of the alt to the battery (it's big).
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I have a question on the VSS hook up as I'm building a 6.0, 4L65e,203, splitcase and also not using a adapter to connect the 4L65 to the 203. How are you installing the VSS between the 4L65e and the 203. From what I understand in order to get the correct reading that is where it has to go, correct?
guys - you must have the VSS installed from the vortec motor. It needs to pick up the output shaft speed of the transmission and send the signal to the vortec pcm or your transmission will not shift.
The toyota speedo works from the stock speed sensor that is on the toyota transfer case so keep this if you want your stock speedo to work. Regardless - you must have the VSS for the engine or the trans will not shift.
The toyota speedo works from the stock speed sensor that is on the toyota transfer case so keep this if you want your stock speedo to work. Regardless - you must have the VSS for the engine or the trans will not shift.
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- #60
Ok, so I asked a second time and this time he said yes, it does need a vss. That completely screws up my project. I don't know why he said I could just leave it unplugged the first time.
I'm not sure what I can do with this unless I can find some sort of universal speed sensor that I can mount in between or something off the 60 case and adapt it to the gm stuff.
I'm not sure what I can do with this unless I can find some sort of universal speed sensor that I can mount in between or something off the 60 case and adapt it to the gm stuff.
