1995 fzj80 5.3/4l60e/np203/splitcase swap
- Thread starter Mr.Bryan
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
Out for exhaust... again.
This time it's getting done right. Got a good referral for a shop. Guy saw the old stuff and started laughing. Good sign right?
Been going through everything and cleaning up/ redoing the correct way as to make this thing work.
Fired right up and drove fine after sitting for 8 months.
I'll post up some pictures of the exhauxt and other pieces when it comes home.
I'll be starting on building a center console to fit all the shifters and CUP HOLDERS! (yea you stock 80 guys are jelous)
This time it's getting done right. Got a good referral for a shop. Guy saw the old stuff and started laughing. Good sign right?
Been going through everything and cleaning up/ redoing the correct way as to make this thing work.
Fired right up and drove fine after sitting for 8 months.
I'll post up some pictures of the exhauxt and other pieces when it comes home.
I'll be starting on building a center console to fit all the shifters and CUP HOLDERS! (yea you stock 80 guys are jelous)
If I'm reading this right, that's almost $80 for a single power steering hose?
My plan was to take the GM and Toy AC and power steering pressure hoses all to Maxair and have them all combined. When I called they said they could do them all very reasonably.
Upside being overall cost, downside being that if one fails, replacement may be difficult or costly since you have to source factory hoses for a rebuild from Maxair.
If I'm reading this right, that's almost $80 for a single power steering hose?
My plan was to take the GM and Toy AC and power steering pressure hoses all to Maxair and have them all combined. When I called they said they could do them all very reasonably.
Upside being overall cost, downside being that if one fails, replacement may be difficult or costly since you have to source factory hoses for a rebuild from Maxair.
Lol
I never really thought about the specific cost of these parts since i already had most of the stuff from earlier engine builds and swaps.
Max air can certainly do it cheaper. They did my a/c hoses for me and it was about $80
I'm starting from scratch, so I'm trying to account for as much as I possibly can.
For example I'm wondering where you got the brass fitting for the water temp gauge line and the f-body oil cooler block off? and how much you paid for them. LOL
See here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7440188&postcount=164
I'm not understanding the issue with the fuel rail connections. Can someone clarify for me?
- Thread starter
- #128
You have two options with the gm engine. You can have a fuel rail that has a return and one that does not. Its easier to run the rail with no return and use the corvette fuel filter which snaps on the end of it and also acts as your fuel pressure regulator as opposed to running connections for the fuel return line and installing a fuel pressure regulator. Ends up being cheaper too.
alia176
SILVER Star
So in your case, you are not utilizing the oem fuel return line back to the tank?
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
Get a single feed fuel rail. Pretty much all the motors after 04 had them. These motors the PCM controlled fuel pressure so no need for a return. On our rigs we have a return. When using the Corvette filter it has a return and built in regulator.
Thanks everyone. That clears things up.
So if my engine has a return, as it likely will since I will probably be getting an '02 or older due to costs, then I just run the fuel rail return line to the factory return line, correct?
So if my engine has a return, as it likely will since I will probably be getting an '02 or older due to costs, then I just run the fuel rail return line to the factory return line, correct?
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- Thread starter
- #132
Hey guys, little update here, been spending a lot of time fixing up all the little bits inside the truck. Building shifters, putting in switches and making gauges work. Truck hasn't been this nice in a few years!
I however do have a question for anyone with electrical knowledge... All of my gauges work properly except for the RPM and the Water Temp.
Currently I'm more concerned with water temp at the moment, here's the issue: I adapted the Toyota sensor to fit into the gm block. It has a fine connection when it's cold or after just warming up but on really hot days or stop and go traffic when the temp gets 190+ish, the gauge will sometime just drop. No rhyme or reason. Some times it comes back, sometimes not until it's cooled off. I'm trying to figure out how to fix this. I'm guessing that it's a grounding issue, but I can't seem to fix that. I just added 2 new ground cables, one from the engine to the body, one body to the battery. Any thoughts?
RPM gauge works, it's just off. It doesn't read properly and my thoughts are I need to add an inline resistor to get it closer. I'll try and address that in a little while. (as of 4/27/17 haven't got to this yet, kind of stopped caring. Maybe I will eventually)
Thanks!
Edit
Just typed this up for another mud member so I figured I'd post it here for reference:
Ok, so, when I get home I'll get you some pictures of the shifters inside. Just used some B&m cable shifters and made a basic 3 lever set up for them.
From the post on my thread, no, not much has changed. There may be a small change coming shortly which would be the location of my VSS. Theres a guy that sells an adapter that goes over the PTO window for the splitcase and allows you to mount a vss there instead of doing what I did which was drilling and tapping the GM tail housing adapter. www.jagsthatrun.com I've also added a B&M cooler on the trans. Didn't have heat issues with the stock trans cooler but was going to put a power steering cooler on it and decided to upgrade the trans cooler and use the stock cooler on the powersteering.
As far as cost goes, you can for sure get under $5k but you'll have to get creative. I didn't want to bother chasing stuff down so my engine and trans I bought from LKQ for about $1850 w/ ~90k on it. $450 for the np203 @ offroad designs, Adapter for 203 to splitcase was $550 from advance adapters, got the splitcase in pieces from a buddy for a case of beer and had to order about $100 in parts to make it work. Spent about another $600 or so at PSI conversions for an ECU and wiring harness that was all ready to go and programmed to exactly what I wanted. About $900 on custom exhaust from the headers back, Drive shafts were about $600(had to order a flange to mount to the 60 case), I used a denso fuel pump from a TTsupra cost about $150, $200 or so on some shorty block hugger headers, $250 or so on an artkarr shifter for the trans, each b&m shifter cable was about $65, Russell fittings and hose for fuel lines & power steering probably ran me about $175, Dirty dingo engine mounts, $75 for a fan shroud kit from summit racing, utilized the stock crossmember with extra steel I had laying around for the trans support, Dakota digital for the speed-o and tach, the rest of it was wiring each individual thing to work on the dash. Like I said earlier, it's a lot of little stuff that'll get ya. If you craigslist a bunch of it and do the wiring work and what not yourself, you could probably keep it around $3k but that'll be a real challenge.
I don't think I would do anything differently other than consider buying an orien splitcase or just go with a 3speed atlas for transfercases but cost is a major factor in that. I'm eventually going to end up with an atlas but that's $3500 or so I don't have right now.
Hope that helps. I think that's everything I've done for that swap. Oh, and No a/c. Didn't bother with it. Ended up adding more coolers for trans & power steering in place of the condenser. And I made half doors so that makes a huge difference.
View attachment 20170424_170716.jpg
I however do have a question for anyone with electrical knowledge... All of my gauges work properly except for the RPM and the Water Temp.
Currently I'm more concerned with water temp at the moment, here's the issue: I adapted the Toyota sensor to fit into the gm block. It has a fine connection when it's cold or after just warming up but on really hot days or stop and go traffic when the temp gets 190+ish, the gauge will sometime just drop. No rhyme or reason. Some times it comes back, sometimes not until it's cooled off. I'm trying to figure out how to fix this. I'm guessing that it's a grounding issue, but I can't seem to fix that. I just added 2 new ground cables, one from the engine to the body, one body to the battery. Any thoughts?
RPM gauge works, it's just off. It doesn't read properly and my thoughts are I need to add an inline resistor to get it closer. I'll try and address that in a little while. (as of 4/27/17 haven't got to this yet, kind of stopped caring. Maybe I will eventually)
Thanks!
Edit
Just typed this up for another mud member so I figured I'd post it here for reference:
Ok, so, when I get home I'll get you some pictures of the shifters inside. Just used some B&m cable shifters and made a basic 3 lever set up for them.
From the post on my thread, no, not much has changed. There may be a small change coming shortly which would be the location of my VSS. Theres a guy that sells an adapter that goes over the PTO window for the splitcase and allows you to mount a vss there instead of doing what I did which was drilling and tapping the GM tail housing adapter. www.jagsthatrun.com I've also added a B&M cooler on the trans. Didn't have heat issues with the stock trans cooler but was going to put a power steering cooler on it and decided to upgrade the trans cooler and use the stock cooler on the powersteering.
As far as cost goes, you can for sure get under $5k but you'll have to get creative. I didn't want to bother chasing stuff down so my engine and trans I bought from LKQ for about $1850 w/ ~90k on it. $450 for the np203 @ offroad designs, Adapter for 203 to splitcase was $550 from advance adapters, got the splitcase in pieces from a buddy for a case of beer and had to order about $100 in parts to make it work. Spent about another $600 or so at PSI conversions for an ECU and wiring harness that was all ready to go and programmed to exactly what I wanted. About $900 on custom exhaust from the headers back, Drive shafts were about $600(had to order a flange to mount to the 60 case), I used a denso fuel pump from a TTsupra cost about $150, $200 or so on some shorty block hugger headers, $250 or so on an artkarr shifter for the trans, each b&m shifter cable was about $65, Russell fittings and hose for fuel lines & power steering probably ran me about $175, Dirty dingo engine mounts, $75 for a fan shroud kit from summit racing, utilized the stock crossmember with extra steel I had laying around for the trans support, Dakota digital for the speed-o and tach, the rest of it was wiring each individual thing to work on the dash. Like I said earlier, it's a lot of little stuff that'll get ya. If you craigslist a bunch of it and do the wiring work and what not yourself, you could probably keep it around $3k but that'll be a real challenge.
I don't think I would do anything differently other than consider buying an orien splitcase or just go with a 3speed atlas for transfercases but cost is a major factor in that. I'm eventually going to end up with an atlas but that's $3500 or so I don't have right now.
Hope that helps. I think that's everything I've done for that swap. Oh, and No a/c. Didn't bother with it. Ended up adding more coolers for trans & power steering in place of the condenser. And I made half doors so that makes a huge difference.
View attachment 20170424_170716.jpg
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