1995 fzj80 5.3/4l60e/np203/splitcase swap

[Mr.Bryan]

Well, I just plugged everything together for a quick test and something isn't right. The pcm I guess isn't getting power and there's a few functions on the Toyota side that arn't working.

Radio comes on, all dash lights work but fan for heater wont turn on, headlights don't work, but blinkers do. Abs and oil light are on, but I think that's just because the abs sensor isn't plugged in.

What connectors from the toyota need to be reconnected? Ih1, is that it?

Starter does nothing as well, but that may be because the pcm isn't getting power.

Damn.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

Does the old cable that went from the alternator to the fuse box need to see power? That may be my issue...

From what I can tell, ih1 isn't gettting power and that seems to be causing all of the problems.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

Ok, answered my question. Headlights and blower work, still not seeing any power at the pcm though. I'm trying to gage whether or not I have power by looking at a Bluetooth connector I have connected at the diagnostics port on the GM harness. Is that reliable?

If it is, I may not be connected to the right wire out of ih1 for hot key on/crank.

Any ideas to diagnose?

 

[Mr.Bryan]

Ok, been testing stuff w a multimeter and not getting much luck. Found a few wires hot key on/crank. Nothing for starter solenoid or brakes.

Is the 95ewd the same as 96? I'm working off the 96 and have a 95 truck.

Are there any other connectors I need to work from besides ih1?

 

[Mr.Bryan]

It helps having a friend whos an electrical engineer... Thanks Dan!

Looks like a big problem came from the fact that the truck had a remote start in it. That seemed to be interfering with the ih1 connections. We have everything sorted though, my plan is to wire up the starter and fuel pump to get power and then it should run!

Just need to work on making a support bracket for the 60 case

 

[warpdriv]

Just need to work on making a support bracket for the 60 case

This may help: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/403256-another-texas-ls1-swap-7.html#post6033596

 

[Mr.Bryan]

4rnr has been helping me with this one and we decided to build a plate off of the inspection window on the 203.

Getting closer yet, had the starter clicking bit the ground wire I used from the starter isn't thick enough so that caused some issues. Also I accidentally let a wire from the ignition ground out and burned up my fusible link. So I have another on order from the local stealer. Who by the way had no idea what a fusible link was and I had to look up the part number...

 

[Mr.Bryan]

M22 taps are expensive but still cheaper than AA's parts.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

Well, it still goes click. No Vroom.

Not sure what the issue is. Any ideas?

Battery is charged, cables are connected and tightened, park neutral is grounded although that doesn't matter (i have an art Carr).

I can connect to the pcm with my Bluetooth obd thing, it reads numbers.

The only thing I'm at is its a bad starter.

Any other ideas or things to check?

 

[warpdriv]

Make sure you harness is ground WELL and your engine is grounded to the body. I also ground my park neutral. By click, does it turn over or the solenoid just clicks?

 

[Mr.Bryan]

Solenoid just clicks. starter doesn't spin.

I tried it with the starter just hanging out in space and same thing. I'm going to take it back tomorrow morning and have the parts store test it. I couldn't make it work.

My wires are 4ga from batt to starter, starter to block, block to batt. Negative wires get pretty warm while trying to turn it over, but yea, no spinning.

If the starter is tested and shows it's good, I'm going to just buy new cable. I'm using the 4ga from the GM and maybe it's just bad wire...

 

[Mr.Bryan]

It's alive! Bad ground cable. Now to finish putting everything together.

 

[warpdriv]

MAZEL TOV!!!!

 

[davegonz]

Can you please post a pics with the console on? Tks

Sent from my DroidCruiser

Don't forget the pics of the shifter!

 

[rockrod]

It's alive! Bad ground cable. Now to finish putting everything together.

i built a set of cables from 4 gauge welding cable. i didn't want any issues and it allowed me to run the cables up and around the motor to keep the out from underneath.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

Thanks! Yea, I used the stock heat sheild crap that cane over the wires. It should be ok.

Nothing different yet with the shifters. Waiting to build the linkages for the tcases before it all goes together. Should be later this week.

 

[davegonz]

Cool. My 700R4 with the stock Toyota shifter is pretty loose and crappy feeling and I have been on the search for something else. Can't wait to see how your shifter looks with the 80 series plastic tranny cover.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

Needed a trans jack to get the tcases back in. I ended up running to harbor freight and got one for $65.

Had to cut the exhaust, but if all goes well tonight I'll be driving it to the exhaust shop tomorrow to fix it. The dumb ass put the exhaust in the wrong place and there was no way I could lift both tcases up and over the exhaust.

Tcases are in. Truck starts and idles fine. Trying to make sure that the temp is ok. It started getting hot but that may have been a lack of coolant causing it. Should have a better idea tomorrow.

Trans leaks out of the trans dip stick hole. I gotta get up in there and make sure that it's all the way in.

Getting closer to being all together!

 

[Mr.Bryan]

Just drove it around the block!

Temp is sitting at 186, trans shifts perfectly, speed through obd is correct.

Just gotta start putting everything back together.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

Seems to be doing well. Just putting things back together. 60 case has an oil leak from the rear flange, still need to build linkages to shift everything, need to put a few of the interior parts back together. Exhaust is hopefully going to be fixed tomorrow. Going to see if I can get me some a/c going as well.

I flushed out the coolant system yesterday and filled it up w dexcool. Tossed in a bottle of water wetter for good measure.

Almost there!