1995 80 Series A343F Transmission Problems (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I view the root cause more as incompetent mechanics rather than crooked. Crooked comes into place trying to cover up the incompetence. The OP should be going back to the company demanding reimbursement or filling a small claims court complaint.
I find it hard to believe that a mechanic that is incompetent in his diagnosing skills to THAT degree would have enough brain cells to rebuild an automatic transmission. So yes, i believe he misdiagnosed it deliberately, hence CROOKED. My mother would know that if one of the driveshafts is spinning and the truck is not moving, that means that its 100% not a transmission issue.

I bet that if OP let that POS rebuild his TC, next on his list would be rebuilding both differentials.

I would personally sue him in small claims, and make him take that transmission back, and buy the OP a replacement used one from a low mileage truck. I wouldn't trust a transmission that was rebuilt by a joker like that.
 
If you're a hammer, everything looks like a nail. If he took it to a general mechanic I doubt the trans would have been zeroed in on.
 
When I first got my LC, I came from OLD GM 4x4's. There was no such thing as a center differential or a viscous coupler. When your hubs were locked in, your were ready for 4x4. When you pulled the lever, the front and rear worked together.

When I heard that my LC could get stuck with one tire in the snow, or would slide down my driveway with one tire on ice, I thought everyone was full of crap! Not the most prestigious 4x4 in the world!

So, I went and found the nearest snow pile and proceeded to pull the front of my truck into it. Lo and behold, I got stuck with only my front wheels in the snow. I couldn't believe it! I pulled the lever into low (I hadn't done the pin 7 mod yet) and I thin proceeded to climb over the snow pile and move on.

That's when I realized how important the pin 7 mod is and what the VC does for our trucks on a daily drive in the rain and snow on the pavement. It makes it much smoother and effortless and more controllable on highway. However, it makes it more prone to being stuck off road.

I love my LC more than any other truck, but there are certain things that still bug me and that's one of them. However, the front drive plates are frequently looked as a "fuse" so those break instead of axle shafts or drive shafts. They are quick and easy to replace, and you can do it without (almost) getting greasy.

I agree with@iptman on his assessment. Most transmission shops don;t fully understand the complete operation of our driveline, as do many of the owners and some enthusiasts.
 
When I first got my LC, I came from OLD GM 4x4's. There was no such thing as a center differential or a viscous coupler. When your hubs were locked in, your were ready for 4x4. When you pulled the lever, the front and rear worked together.

When I heard that my LC could get stuck with one tire in the snow, or would slide down my driveway with one tire on ice, I thought everyone was full of crap! Not the most prestigious 4x4 in the world!

So, I went and found the nearest snow pile and proceeded to pull the front of my truck into it. Lo and behold, I got stuck with only my front wheels in the snow. I couldn't believe it! I pulled the lever into low (I hadn't done the pin 7 mod yet) and I thin proceeded to climb over the snow pile and move on.

That's when I realized how important the pin 7 mod is and what the VC does for our trucks on a daily drive in the rain and snow on the pavement. It makes it much smoother and effortless and more controllable on highway. However, it makes it more prone to being stuck off road.

I love my LC more than any other truck, but there are certain things that still bug me and that's one of them. However, the front drive plates are frequently looked as a "fuse" so those break instead of axle shafts or drive shafts. They are quick and easy to replace, and you can do it without (almost) getting greasy.

I agree with@iptman on his assessment. Most transmission shops don;t fully understand the complete operation of our driveline, as do many of the owners and some enthusiasts.

How does VC make the truck more prone to being stuck off road? It's essentially disabled when the center diff is locked (which happens when you put it in 4-low even without pin 7 mod). And you should be in 4-low when you're off roading, VC or not.
In fact, even with the center diff unlocked, VC would decrease your chances of getting stuck by transferring more power to the axle that has better traction. That's what it's designed to do.

The only real disadvantage i see to VC is the inability to run a different sized spare tire without somehow disconnecting the power transfer to the axle with that spare tire.
 
How does VC make the truck more prone to being stuck off road? It's essentially disabled when the center diff is locked (which happens when you put it in 4-low even without pin 7 mod). And you should be in 4-low when you're off roading, VC or not.
In fact, even with the center diff unlocked, VC would decrease your chances of getting stuck by transferring more power to the axle that has better traction. That's what it's designed to do.

The only real disadvantage i see to VC is the inability to run a different sized spare tire without somehow disconnecting the power transfer to the axle with that spare tire.

Let me clarify. Having a CENTER DIFFERENTIAL, not just a VC. It's really the CD that allows this to occur. If you have NOT locked your CDL, whether you are in low or high range, you are more prone to becoming stuck UNLESS you lock your CDL.

The 91-92 trucks don't have a VC. They can do the same thing. They came with the CDL switch on the dash.

Same thing applies if you have selectable front and rear locking differentials. You are more prone to getting stuck if you have open differentials than if you have selectable locking differentials.

The VC keeps the "clunk" away. And, if you stand on the throttle hard enough, eventually, the other axle MAY get a little power IF you are too ignorant to know you NEED to lock the CDL. Eventually, without locking the CDL, the VC will weld itself together and then it will be a locked CDL 100% of the time, then you WON't get stuck! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

On the old 4x4's, you didn't have to "lock the CDL". When you pulled the lever, it was in or out. Period.

None of them like having an odd-sized spare because it either causes the center differential and/or the F/R differential to turn due to different circumferences. When those diffs turn, they generate heat. When they heat up, they come apart.

Try running a different sized tire (2" diameter) on ANY drive axle on ANY car or truck. Then drive 15 miles at 110 MPH. I guarantee you'll figure out it works on 2WD vehicles as well........ (The heat and coming apart thing....)

Clear as......'MUD?
 
Let me clarify. Having a CENTER DIFFERENTIAL, not just a VC. It's really the CD that allows this to occur. If you have NOT locked your CDL, whether you are in low or high range, you are more prone to becoming stuck UNLESS you lock your CDL.

The 91-92 trucks don't have a VC. They can do the same thing. They came with the CDL switch on the dash.

Same thing applies if you have selectable front and rear locking differentials. You are more prone to getting stuck if you have open differentials than if you have selectable locking differentials.

The VC keeps the "clunk" away. And, if you stand on the throttle hard enough, eventually, the other axle MAY get a little power IF you are too ignorant to know you NEED to lock the CDL. Eventually, without locking the CDL, the VC will weld itself together and then it will be a locked CDL 100% of the time, then you WON't get stuck! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

On the old 4x4's, you didn't have to "lock the CDL". When you pulled the lever, it was in or out. Period.

None of them like having an odd-sized spare because it either causes the center differential and/or the F/R differential to turn due to different circumferences. When those diffs turn, they generate heat. When they heat up, they come apart.

Try running a different sized tire (2" diameter) on ANY drive axle on ANY car or truck. Then drive 15 miles at 110 MPH. I guarantee you'll figure out it works on 2WD vehicles as well........ (The heat and coming apart thing....)

Clear as......'MUD?

Im not sure which part of my post made you think that i wasn't familiar with differentials in general and how they work, but thanks.. i guess... - it's only been about 15 years since i rebuilt my first differential, so i guess i needed a refresher.. :)

In your previous post you said that VC specifically somehow made the truck more prone to being stuck off roading... And as i said in my previous post, that's not the case. Having a VC in your transfer has ABSOLUTELY ZERO negative side effects on off roading, in ANY situation, regardless of what "mode" your TC is in.. PERIOD. Neither does having a center differential (as long as it's lockable like all US 80-series).

The old 4x4's that you are talking about had no center differential, so the power split was always 50-50 between front and rear axles. Same as the J80 with center differential in "locked" mode. The difference is that with J80 the center diff could be unlocked, allowing you to drive on dry roads in "AWD" mode, which you couldn't do in "old 4x4's". 4runners (for example) had no center differential in the transfer case as recent as 2000, so this doesnt only apply to "old" 4x4's.

What probably causes confusion (of some people) is newer "AWD" cars/suv's that have a center differential, but no ability to lock it.
They can get stuck with only one wheel on ice, like you described.... This can not happen with the 80 series because they all had the center differential lock, making them the best of both worlds - AWD on dry roads, and 4x4 while off-roading. VC provided additional benefit in AWD mode, but again, zero effect in 4x4 mode.

So there is no absolutely no reason for LC's transfer case design to "bug you", as per your earlier post..


As for running odd size spare, i cant speak for the old 4x4's that you had, but i can assure you that the LC differential is perfectly capable of driving extended distances with an odd size spare on one side. Sure, spider gears in the diff will have to do a bit more work and might produce A LITTLE more heat, but it's absolutely not going to "come apart" from that in normal driving conditions (driving 110MPH is not normal.. 80 probably cant even go that fast). A lot of cars actually come with undersized spares.
 
Im not sure which part of my post made you think that i wasn't familiar with differentials in general and how they work, but thanks.. i guess... - it's only been about 15 years since i rebuilt my first differential, so i guess i needed a refresher.. :)

In your previous post you said that VC specifically somehow made the truck more prone to being stuck off roading... And as i said in my previous post, that's not the case. Having a VC in your transfer has ABSOLUTELY ZERO negative side effects on off roading, in ANY situation, regardless of what "mode" your TC is in.. PERIOD. Neither does having a center differential (as long as it's lockable like all US 80-series).

The old 4x4's that you are talking about had no center differential, so the power split was always 50-50 between front and rear axles. Same as the J80 with center differential in "locked" mode. The difference is that with J80 the center diff could be unlocked, allowing you to drive on dry roads in "AWD" mode, which you couldn't do in "old 4x4's". 4runners (for example) had no center differential in the transfer case as recent as 2000, so this doesnt only apply to "old" 4x4's.

What probably causes confusion (of some people) is newer "AWD" cars/suv's that have a center differential, but no ability to lock it.
They can get stuck with only one wheel on ice, like you described.... This can not happen with the 80 series because they all had the center differential lock, making them the best of both worlds - AWD on dry roads, and 4x4 while off-roading. VC provided additional benefit in AWD mode, but again, zero effect in 4x4 mode.

So there is no absolutely no reason for LC's transfer case design to "bug you", as per your earlier post..


As for running odd size spare, i cant speak for the old 4x4's that you had, but i can assure you that the LC differential is perfectly capable of driving extended distances with an odd size spare on one side. Sure, spider gears in the diff will have to do a bit more work and might produce A LITTLE more heat, but it's absolutely not going to "come apart" from that in normal driving conditions (driving 110MPH is not normal.. 80 probably cant even go that fast). A lot of cars actually come with undersized spares.
Well obviously you won't get stuck because you understand differentials.

For those that have no idea what the difference is between AWD and 4WD, this info can come in handy. Watch some YouTube videos about towing and you'll see people that say "well it's four wheel drive, why can't I go there?".....

Not everyone is all knowing, as you appear to be.

I think it's been 40 years since I did my first differential, and have done many engines, transmissions, and transfer cases between then and now, if we're gonna measure Dick's based on that.....
 
Most tranny shops just automatically just get a reman they don't want to think it's to hard for them
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom