Builds 1994 1hz 80 series ZOMBIE (1 Viewer)

[BILT4ME]

Are you going to "Lap" the valves? If so, you will need some valve grinding compound, a suction cup on a stick, new valve guide seals, and the tools to remove / install valve springs. You should also get some new valve shims in order to measure your valves and make sure they are all the same. This is frequently done with a spring compression gauge to measure the spring rate at a given height, then shim to get the correct pressure.

Good Luck!

Congrats on rebuilding the injectors! Did you do it all on your kitchen table?

You've already taken on more than I am willing to do anymore! However, with the amount of inflation you have stated, necessity is the mother of all invention! I would do it, too, if I had to due to not enough money and the quality of work you get outside.

When you're done, maybe you should farm out YOUR skills as a mechanic....you can certainly do a better job than most!

 

[MoeGasim]

Thank you @BILT4ME ....great advice and motivation as usual

I did buy the tools, grinding compound, seals etc....but at my wits with the possibility of just removing the old remains of the fairly new gasket by a razor blade or would i need to do more.

 

[MoeGasim]

did a quick valve test to see if there was any leaking (technique from oldskool funk on youtube)....poured in water (on the closed ones)....nothing...dry as our climate. Makes me rethink i should even touch them....i even went ahead and blew (yes i gave my LC mouth to mouth resuscitation because i dont have an air compressor...YET) into the intake or exhaust corresponding to the closed valve...not even a bubble..

should i just leave them as they seem excellent to me.???

 

[MoeGasim]

Now the pics...

the yellow circles show the tie down bolt holes...severely cracked by over torquing

the PO's make shift solution to the worst of the cracked holes....unfortunately he used the cheapest bolts and kept loosing thread the tighter i torqued id down.

at the fabricators...intense heat to the hole and then welding the new bolts in

the piston heads...not PLENTY of build up to my surprise...easily removed even with just cloth

the diesel splatter on my fairly new body work and wiring

 

[MoeGasim]

hajji style garage (Sudanese Redneck)...does the job

you can also see my carpentry skills in the bg

the cleaning corner

not sure if this is from the diesel splatter or a power steering issue....unfortunately i cant afford to rip it apart now...maybe next month

 

[Expedition94]

question....

you know i did the engine rebuild at a workshop a few months back ...now with the head off...would i need to re-mill the head/block.????

can i just use a razor to remove the old gasket remains (not much) and then possibly use high grade sandpaper to smooth it out??? or just razor blade it.....keeping in mind i found the old Head gasket is same number as new one (number 5).

when it over heated i did not drive it long...and was at night...maybe less than 10km at low speed...

I'm glad to hear you're still doing well and your family is also in a much better place! Also to answer your question about the head milling....the best way to check if you need to have it machined is get a machined strait edge (not just a ruler this is made to be completely flat and strait) and lay it over the block and head in an X pattern and check with a feeler Gauge from one end of the strait edge to the other. There should be a manufacturers spec for it (.002 or something along those lines) as long as it's within spec you shouldn't have any problems and don't need to have it machined! Oh and of course make sure the gasket is cleaned from the head and block before you do that. I'm not 100% sure if the 1HZ is aluminum or cast but if you do wind up using a razor just becareful to not leave any Guage marks in the head. I believe permatex makes a gasket disolver and it would work wonders for head gasket work since it gives the least opprotunity to have the block/head damaged in the process of removing the gasket. With that being said I've used a razor before and they work, just be careful! Be sure to let me know if you have any other questions, I'll try my best to lend a helping hand when I can.

 

[MoeGasim]

thank you @Expedition94

as the build progressed i found i have a 1hd-t engine...and its cast iron. the head is fairly clean...most of the gasket comes off using plastic card, especially the cylinder and piston block...some parts i just rubbed with bare fingers and the junk was moving. i am very afraid to scratch it as we have already reached gasket number 5 (thickest)...an more and i will have to add gasket maker

thanks again for the info and glad to have people like you around to consult.

 

[BILT4ME]

So.....after welding in the bolt holes for the injectors, how are you going to hold them in? Did you weld in studs? Usually, when welding on a cast iron head, the entire head needs to be heated in order to keep the temperature shock from cracking the head because cast iron does not flex well with temp differentials. Sometimes this can induce cracking. I am hoping they heated more than just a 6-8cm area around each spot. Many machine shops will heat it in an oven to 400*F+ before they are welding on it to "normalize" the material. Check for flatness after all the welding. It is possible with all the welding on one side that the head may twist. Clean block and head dealing surfaces with a razor blade and a stiff plastic or natural brush.
As far as lapping the valves, they seal now against blowing and water, so that is at least 80% good. You can still lap them but it will cost you valve seals. May not have to reshim valves. It worked when you took me it apart. Use your own judgment here. I'm torn on what route due to resources and tool availability.

What caused the overheat condition? Did you pull the head in order to do the injectors or did the HG go out?

Good luck!

 

[MoeGasim]

the fab shop here did have an oven, but the engineer convinced me that as the welding wasnt very intensive and that it was further away from the center, they would heat up the area (approx 3 injectors at a time) and then weld.

yes we planted new studs in that were, i think, carbon steel or something....did a test outside before buying them to see how well they held on to their bolts....worked great

im doing the HG mainly to properly seat the injectors, so the head had to come off (they couldnt weld inside the engine bay). the over heating (or actually just heating) occurred when my water pump gave way....wasnt driving it long and temp stayed under red.

 

[MoeGasim]

update....with everyone cautioning me about head testing etc...ur wish is my command...gave it to the same fab shop...then decided they might be a bit bias, especially with the welding thing....so took it to another shop (they mostly reside in the same area)....less than 0.001 which is within specs. no crack dye test as im sure it did not over heat ...and frankly couldnt find the dye test except at the petroleum industries, which is a no no here...like sending yourself off to camp xray.

So...back home...new head bolts in hand....cleaned everything.....re-cleaned....and again re-cleaned....this HG job was literally rocket science when i started...but it actually isnt that hard (if you have a good back )
waiting for my brother to help me install the head....more to come on the installation tomorrow.

also...removed all the water inlets and outlets....old hoses ...everything....cleaned or replaced (depending on what i could find and afford).
hope to get her running by tomorrow.....prayers welcome....

EDIT: I initially thought i was supposed to test the piston block..thats why i was very reluctant to do it due to the cost of removal etc..but did test it when i got the straight edge before yesterday.

 

[BILT4ME]

Awesome!!!: Good luck on making it go again! That's pretty fast to get it back together ( probably feels slow to you)......of course it helps when the wife is out of town.....

 

[Scrybe]

Can you get a Hot Glue Gun? http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-Hot-Glue-to-Insulate-and-Support-Soldering-J/ That could solve your need for heat shrink tubing, but then again it might just melt in the sun

Also if you are willing to risk a bit of heat damage, you can heat up a tool (screwdriver with wooden handle for me) and then touch the metal components that are fused to the plastic. Careful not to overdo it, there is a lot more thermal mass in the tool than most connectors have and they can heat up quick.

Finally, if you can find someone who will convert bitcoin, you might have a way to bypass Western Union. Check out bitcoin.org if ou want to learn more and feel free to PM me if you want to get some questions answered.

 

[MoeGasim]

@Scrybe thank you for the heat gun solution....thankfully a few fellow mudders kindly sent me an awesome set of wraps, tapes and crimps.

thanks again.

 

[MoeGasim]

literally spent 4 hours looking for the Allen key bolt that holds the idler pulley on the cam belt....looked all over the house....every plastic bag....put my hand down the drain in case i accidentally flushed it ...found it in the bucket full of cleaning diesel

question:...just to make sure nothing is in the pistons....can i crank it without connecting the solenoid and injectors still out ...so it can literally spit anything out...i mean particles etc???? ...just hope i didnt make any medical mistakes by forgetting any cloth i used to cover the pistons with

would like to do that before i start installing the intake, exhaust etc etc

 

[BILT4ME]

Are you talking about cranking it with the head on or off?

If off, it will spin freely, but you will lose your cam timing reference point and have to start over from TDC.

If on, yes, you can as long as you leave out the injector and disconnect the fuel pump solenoid or disable the fuel pump. This should rid the cylinders of debris. Make sure you have the lubrication system in place and the valve covers on so it doesn't make more of a mess in your garage and under-hood.

Good Luck!

 

[MoeGasim]

thank you @BILT4ME

was busy all day working on getting various nuts n bolts in...
-hoses
-cleaning the air intake once again....added a small layer of FIPG for the air intake manifold..found the PO only used one bolt to hold down the air -intake (thing that goes over the valve covers) onto the intake manifold...re-threaded the other two holes (cleaned again)..will also apply FIPG there.
-new gasket for exhaust manifold
-bled the power steering...new gasket and reservoir hoses...did the reservoir dismantle and cleaning
-cleaned the radiator and let water circulate around the engine...tap water for now...PLENTY of muddy water came out
-tested out a foaming grease cleaner i found in shop on part of the fender......will definitely buy more of this once everything is up and running.

11:45pm here.....and i called my neighbour to tell him i'll be working late.....winter time here is the start of late night burglars in the area...so i dont get accidentally shot ...or maybe he will just be in a bad mode and decide to shoot me anyway

 

[MoeGasim]

with solenoid removed...injectors and glow plugs out....valve cover on.....i rotated the crank by hand a few times to triple check the timing...then....cranked here up....

mum came out and said....the car sounds soooooo much quieter now..looool....love my mum....and yes...we do live with our parents over here...taking care of them as they (and still do) did for us

 

[BILT4ME]

I flushed my 4.5L petrol cooling system with a garden hose for about 20 minutes with it stuck in the upper radiator hose running straight into the block. Flushed all kinds of crud out. The PO had contaminated green and red so there was sludge.

After that I flushed it (4) times with distilled water only and each time looked like muddy tea. I finally quit doing it and filled with Toyota Red and distilled water...now it looks like fruit punch Gatorade in the radiator...nice and clear with a beautiful red tone. Hopefully it will stay that way!

They always run quieter without the plugs and injectors!!!!!

 

[MoeGasim]

fruit punch Gatorade....looool....could use that in a sticky desert breakdown situation..... flushed it twice now with tap water....cant wait to start her up...but its too late now 3:36am.. and without the exhaust pipe connected....will probably sound like a cruise missile hit the area.

will update in the morning.....need to get power steering fluid....10 litres of cheapo oil n OEM filter (for the first few days)...then to synthetic LiquiMoly or equivalent.

 

[MoeGasim]

with the exhaust out...would it be possible to clean it....i mean fill it up with maybe soap n water or diesel and pour it out....just to get all the carbon out????

its still disconnected from the manifold.