Couldn't hurt, but most likely will not solve anything here.
1991 fj80 crank but no start.. Will start the next morning ...?!?!??!??
- Thread starter Markoloma
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- Thread starter
- #23
This happens when it is really hot and a few stop and go happens. Like running errands etc..
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- #24
So to prove the sake that it's not the EFI relay.. I bought 2 oem ones and the next time it happens. I swapped it out.. Same thing..
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- #25
So I have not tried jumping the fuel.. BUT what I did always try pumping the gas when starting and nothing would help.
This time when it did it again. I got pretty frustrated so I actually floored the gas pedal and held it while cranking an a few cranks and vroom!
Would this be a dead give away for the FPR?
I'm trying to throw out as much info as I can before I start going to town on it..
But I did check the intake and as I stated.. I replaced the boot so no intake leaks.
This time when it did it again. I got pretty frustrated so I actually floored the gas pedal and held it while cranking an a few cranks and vroom!
Would this be a dead give away for the FPR?
I'm trying to throw out as much info as I can before I start going to town on it..
But I did check the intake and as I stated.. I replaced the boot so no intake leaks.
OMG, leave the freaking EFI alone already. People see 3FE and they blame the EFI relay for the tires being low and spoiled food in the refrigerator. Yes, it is a common issue, but we have moved past this.
Difficult hard starts are known to be caused by a faulty FPR that will over pressurize the fuel rail and jam the check valve in the fuel pump closed. If this persists, the check valve will be damaged and the fuel pump will need to be replaced. If the fuel rail is over pressurized, jumping the diagnostic connector to fire the fuel pump will have no effect.
Another fuel rail related issue is the underhood cooling fan that is supposed to blow air on the intake. Is yours working? It should fire periodically for 5-10 minutes after the engine shuts down. It is controlled by a thermostat on the exhaust manifold.
Difficult hard starts are known to be caused by a faulty FPR that will over pressurize the fuel rail and jam the check valve in the fuel pump closed. If this persists, the check valve will be damaged and the fuel pump will need to be replaced. If the fuel rail is over pressurized, jumping the diagnostic connector to fire the fuel pump will have no effect.
Another fuel rail related issue is the underhood cooling fan that is supposed to blow air on the intake. Is yours working? It should fire periodically for 5-10 minutes after the engine shuts down. It is controlled by a thermostat on the exhaust manifold.
- Thread starter
- #27
The fan does NOT kick in after it is shut off... I use to have that system on my old 91 prelude..
Is it possible to just change the fpr and hope I won't need to replace the fuel pump? That technically should solve the problem? Sorry for the dumb questions.. Never had to deal with fuel problems before.
No dumb questions, just bad answers.
I look at it this way, if the FPR and all the other items in the engine bay that have rubber diaphragms and are vacuum operated are original to the truck, then they have well exceeded a reasonable lifespan and owe you nothing more. The truck is now 23 years old. Throwing some new parts at the old girl probably wouldn't be the worst thing you could do.
There are 2 devices that control fuel pressure in the fuel rail. In the front of the rail is the FPR, and in the rear is the FPD (fuel pressure damper). The FPD is a pressurized expansion vessel that helps to absorb the changes in rail pressure as the 2 groups of injectors fire. I would replace both of these devices using OEM parts.
I look at it this way, if the FPR and all the other items in the engine bay that have rubber diaphragms and are vacuum operated are original to the truck, then they have well exceeded a reasonable lifespan and owe you nothing more. The truck is now 23 years old. Throwing some new parts at the old girl probably wouldn't be the worst thing you could do.
There are 2 devices that control fuel pressure in the fuel rail. In the front of the rail is the FPR, and in the rear is the FPD (fuel pressure damper). The FPD is a pressurized expansion vessel that helps to absorb the changes in rail pressure as the 2 groups of injectors fire. I would replace both of these devices using OEM parts.
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- #29
I really need to either sell it or fix it.. Any ideas as to what I can do "during this time" or not starting... I'm stuck again and it's becomeing a daily thing.. It drives perfectly fine up until this random no start.. It's beginning to frustrate me because im always not able to do my job.. I'm stuck here again. If any suggestions. I got time. And am not going anywhere..
With a small piece of wire jump terminal FP to B+. This will fire the fuel pump continuously while the key is in the ON position.
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- #31
Jumped the fuel pump with a paper clip... Pump worked but still no start.
SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
"Pump worked but still no start"
Either the pump is not producing the 40 psi (or about) at the fuel rail or you have no spark. Check the spark first, if you have spark then test the fuel pressure. Go rent the Autozone fuel pressure test kit for free. Remove the fuel line off the fuel rail going to the cold start injector and test there. As mentioned before, I have experienced this same problem and I had no fuel pressure (sometimes). Changed the damper and all has been good. I also previously had changed the FPR 6 months prior to solving this problem.
Either the pump is not producing the 40 psi (or about) at the fuel rail or you have no spark. Check the spark first, if you have spark then test the fuel pressure. Go rent the Autozone fuel pressure test kit for free. Remove the fuel line off the fuel rail going to the cold start injector and test there. As mentioned before, I have experienced this same problem and I had no fuel pressure (sometimes). Changed the damper and all has been good. I also previously had changed the FPR 6 months prior to solving this problem.
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- #35
I did
I have spark. But i can't go to autozone since I'm stuck and it won't start. I just ordered a FPR and a FPD. Thinking I'll do a fuel filter as well just for giggles.
I have spark. But i can't go to autozone since I'm stuck and it won't start. I just ordered a FPR and a FPD. Thinking I'll do a fuel filter as well just for giggles.
SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
To make changing the fuel damper easy, you will need a set of crowfoot wrench set similar to these but bigger: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-crowfoot-metric-wrench-set-94427.html
I can't remember the exact size needed, it seemed like it was a 22mm.
I can't remember the exact size needed, it seemed like it was a 22mm.
Aggiesdm
***** Regular
You won't be giggling after you change the fuel filter. It's a pain in the a*s due to its location.
Have you checked the condition of the distributor cap/rotor? I know you are getting spark, but I had a hard start issue that I swore was fuel related some years ago. I forgot to check the simple things first. I was getting spark out to the plugs but the center pin had worn away completely in the cap. So spark was jumping to the rotor and again to the plugs
My Dad always said you need 1/2" of spark.
My experiance is a 1/4 is usually fine. But if all you can get is a little piddling 1/8.....then you have other problems.
My downfall was I would always just pull the coil wire. Easy. That didn't test the cap and rotor which can be the path of least resistance as Jonheld pointed out.
My experiance is a 1/4 is usually fine. But if all you can get is a little piddling 1/8.....then you have other problems.
My downfall was I would always just pull the coil wire. Easy. That didn't test the cap and rotor which can be the path of least resistance as Jonheld pointed out.
