1990 HZJ77 (2 Viewers)

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#2. My altimeter actually works. :)
 
Hello 1978HJ45,

My old '87 HJ61 had the same altimeter (and barometer) and, as old and worn out as that car got to be, those still worked. Not entirely useful, i must admit, but neat to have on board nonetheless.
 
After this house remodel is done I may need you to ship Rob to me as I'm growing weary of rolling the dice with my life when I have to get onto the interstate.

I've decided to install my son's car seat forward facing. I feel I'm more likely to get rear-ended from someone texting, then I am to have a head-on.
 
View attachment 1310653 An unexpected issue .....
The throttle cable assembly is down to one strand for some reason.

This one I know, very commun issue of motorcycles (Bicycles too) especially vintage ones on brakes and clutches.

Chamfer, or even make a small "Cone" on the end adjuster (I have even made new (wider diameter) adjusters with a brass sleeve) you will think the cable travels in a absolute straight line in reference to the housing, pulley, actuator but is not accurate, it actually slides on the end of the adjuster a lot, well DRAGS on the adjuster (the cable breaks because of the ANGLE more than the sliding friction).

Trick number two: You can make a custom "FLoating" end to the throttle adjuster ((Floating on a second pivot point) so it can re-adjust the angle on his own, I find you a picture or make you a drawing soon..

Okay this is not it but is a example of trying to decrease drag on the brake line to a minimum so the brake is more efficient (stay farther away from the rim but comes back gripping stronger and with less fade)
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Again, this is not it but Kind of..

I was trying to implement a device call "Force40" developed by cannondale in 1987, is basically a force multiplier, I need a multiplier because the amount of pull from the road brake levers and the V-brakes is about 30% less than need it..

Well you can see the attention paid so the cable strand is as smooth as possible, again all in the sake of brake feel and efficiency, specially on a tandem where the wire stretch so much (every wire has a percentage of elongation, ergo the longer the wire, the more they stretch)
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Doh, my over thinking much, No never...
This is a great example, Shimano introduced the V-brake in 1997 and change the game, 20-30% more power, no fade, you did not need to be a "Brake geek" to have full control of your brakes, in fact anybody can set them up "Well enough"

In any case, the small longitudinal element that you see coming from the left brake arm is a pivot to take into account the movements of the housing that is just floating around, also notice the "Noodle" that curves the cable 90 degrees (if not your leg with touch the housing all the time, something like this is a ten minute job and I promise you your throttle cable will never break again plus you will have better pedal feel too.
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Trick number three, line up a complete second throttle with the housing and cable (cover the ends so they remain water proof, condoms work great) in parallel to the first one with zipties and then if it ever breaks changing the cable is a five minute deal instead of a hour..
 
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I'm finally able to get out of the slow lane on the Interstate. :)
 
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Some of these photos are scattered throughout this thread but I'll re-post some to better organize the subject.
Step 1 in the project was to assure maximum cooling thus the new aluminum radiator.
 
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The Garrett Turbo + 3" exhaust.
 
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Performance Numbers ....
2-3 mile steady incline between Chattanooga and Knoxville, TN.
850° / 10PSI / 110 KPH
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(Sorry for the blurry photo)
 
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Aluminum cylinder behind the radiator is a supplemental water reservoir (2 liters of liquid) that adds capacity to the Intercooler.
 

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