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Two things one the turbo from what I understand is an upgrade installed by ATEB, and the exhaust is 3" all the way back, every indication is that it is tuned correctly at about 13.8 lb of boost. Green light is correct, starts right when the turbo starts to spool up, right on time. It does not follow a pattern, for example it does not get brighter as the turbo is increasing in boost. It does not get brighter when I am running maximum boost either. I will try and post a video taken in darker conditions to show what it is doing. And it it is not the "Flicker" issue from alternator failure.On a stock HDJ81, according to the FSM (I looked it up just now, page BE-67 of the FSM), the green light should be on at or above 2psi, and the amber lights up at or above 11.9psi (lower than I thought). Stock boost is something less than 12psi, if the amber light comes on it indicates "overboost" from the factory settings.
As it always happens when my IT guy finally shows up. I can never duplicate the issue I am having with the computer and he walks away saying "Well, I guess it's fixed then."These lights are either off or on, no varying intensity. Maybe ATEB modified it when they changed the turbo and upped the boost? Take a look at the wiring, the sensors are right by the air cleaner on the vacuum (boost in this case) hose off the turbo.
I will check the high pressure switch for fault.On a stock HDJ81, according to the FSM (I looked it up just now, page BE-67 of the FSM), the green light should be on at or above 2psi, and the amber lights up at or above 11.9psi (lower than I thought). Stock boost is something less than 12psi, if the amber light comes on it indicates "overboost" from the factory settings.
Ya ya, thanks. Ordered all the supplies from CruiserParts week before last, good customer service, parts should arrive tomorrow. I paid a little extra over CDan, but they had all the parts available so I thought I would spread the wealth. Now just need to set aside a few hours to change out the water pump and timing belt. I was going over my receipts and the last time the coolant was changed was at 172,000 km at that time they changed out all the hoses and threw in a new rad and rad cap, so I suppose I will have some extra parts for down the road.and you need to replace your timing belt....
Your welcome, family fun. Now I just need a way to tweak the track and turn it into a number one Hypnotic trance hit played in Ibiza.What a strangely relaxing video. Amazing sounding truck boosting around town, happy wife prattling in the background. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks wrongway, I have done a cursory review of wiring and connections, everything "appears" to be in order. I think that the light started around the same time as the "Timing Belt" light, and I was thinking the same thing. I have had need to chase electrical gremlins in the past, no, not fun never seam to get it right. Bella does not appear to have that issue going on with anything else electrical, and the work done appears to be good work regarding electrical mods. I will start with the timing belt light reset and see where that takes this. If that's not it spend a day chasing down possibilities, does not sound fun. As per IanB I checked the wiring for the sensors and it looks ok, but did not take volt meter to it yet, could it be a bad sending unit for overboost?Did this just start since your timing light bulb came on ? If so remove the rubber grommet on the instrument panel and trip the t belt reset, but get the belt done asap lots of bad can happen if it brakes. None of the other lights dim on the left or right signal. I'm thinking bad over boost bulb maybe. Kind of a pain to start there though. Does it dim when you add an excessory (wiper , heater , center difflock ,4way flashers etc ) or apply the brake lights , or even if you manually shift through the gears reverse too . There are a lot of grounds to check many of which are internal . I drowned a truck once and pulled every plug apart chasing many ground problems . If it only does it with the turn signals I'd pull that flasher unit first , then check a couple obvious grounds that are easily excess able. Then swap around your flasher units then pull your turn signal bulbs one at a time. Chasing electrical can be a royal pain and costly a simple test bulb tester between your battery and your positive watching the bulb draw glow down as you disconnect your culperts. Hope this helps.