Builds 1990 4runner sas build (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 1, 2023
Threads
2
Messages
23
Location
Eatonville Wa
This thread will be an ongoing build I started a few weeks ago for a friend of mine. We both had a vision for this 1990 22re 4runner as a “modest” build, more of a oem plus look to everything but still perform well on and offroad. We were really trying to take after an oem hilux with a 2 or 3 inch lift and 35’s. He wants to drive down the road straight and be comfortable throwing the family in the back and going camping/ wheeling.

First things first was to cut out all the ifs, this has been documented over and over so wont go over that too much. We went with ruffstuff frame plates, welded them in and drilled for the steering box. When we ordered parts he already bought a drop pitman arm and we felt with the max tire size being 35’s we would be fine leaving the steering box in the factory location for now. If we think its worth it later on we can always move it.

To keep everything low we used an all pro low profile front spring hanger. It looks a lot cleaner than most hangers and lowers the front an inch or so compared to a trailgear style hanger. We used the trail gear rear frame sleeves, cutting those holes is a PITA, i need a plasma cutter bad.. then we built some temporary shackles and set it down, we did this to check height so we knew what shackle size to buy. 5” shackles seem to do the trick.

For the axle he had picked up an 84-85 axle a while back, I stripped it down, cleaned it up and we trussed it, fabbed knuckle gussets (coppied ruffstuff), built shock tabs and welded a ruffstuff bash plate on.

We decided to go with Barnes 4wd shock towers to give it a bit nicer oemish look and obviously they’re stronger than hoops. (Might use them for coilovers eventually)

We’re putting in 4.88’s and auto lockers front and rear. I picked up a rebuilt w56 with a 4.7 Tcase from a friend of mine so I am in the process if putting that in with a new Asin clutch at the moment.

For the rear we are using Eibach 2” springs and im trying out 3rd gen rear lift bilstein 5100’s. Eventually he wants to go with a 57” leaf for the rear but for now this should get him on the road.

At this moment the frame and axle parts are all painted ready to go together. He bought new 3rd gen pickup rear leaf springs. I am swapping some of his transmission and transfercase parts to the new one and getting it ready to put back in.

We are in the final process of putting things back together so I should have some significant updates soon. Questions, comments concerns are always welcome here. Positive criticism is always good for learning so have at it.

IMG_3587.jpeg


IMG_3588.jpeg


IMG_3591.jpeg


IMG_3592.jpeg


IMG_3594.jpeg
 
This thread will be an ongoing build I started a few weeks ago for a friend of mine. We both had a vision for this 1990 22re 4runner as a “modest” build, more of a oem plus look to everything but still perform well on and offroad. We were really trying to take after an oem hilux with a 2 or 3 inch lift and 35’s. He wants to drive down the road straight and be comfortable throwing the family in the back and going camping/ wheeling.

First things first was to cut out all the ifs, this has been documented over and over so wont go over that too much. We went with ruffstuff frame plates, welded them in and drilled for the steering box. When we ordered parts he already bought a drop pitman arm and we felt with the max tire size being 35’s we would be fine leaving the steering box in the factory location for now. If we think its worth it later on we can always move it.

To keep everything low we used an all pro low profile front spring hanger. It looks a lot cleaner than most hangers and lowers the front an inch or so compared to a trailgear style hanger. We used the trail gear rear frame sleeves, cutting those holes is a PITA, i need a plasma cutter bad.. then we built some temporary shackles and set it down, we did this to check height so we knew what shackle size to buy. 5” shackles seem to do the trick.

For the axle he had picked up an 84-85 axle a while back, I stripped it down, cleaned it up and we trussed it, fabbed knuckle gussets (coppied ruffstuff), built shock tabs and welded a ruffstuff bash plate on.

We decided to go with Barnes 4wd shock towers to give it a bit nicer oemish look and obviously they’re stronger than hoops. (Might use them for coilovers eventually)

We’re putting in 4.88’s and auto lockers front and rear. I picked up a rebuilt w56 with a 4.7 Tcase from a friend of mine so I am in the process if putting that in with a new Asin clutch at the moment.

For the rear we are using Eibach 2” springs and im trying out 3rd gen rear lift bilstein 5100’s. Eventually he wants to go with a 57” leaf for the rear but for now this should get him on the road.

At this moment the frame and axle parts are all painted ready to go together. He bought new 3rd gen pickup rear leaf springs. I am swapping some of his transmission and transfercase parts to the new one and getting it ready to put back in.

We are in the final process of putting things back together so I should have some significant updates soon. Questions, comments concerns are always welcome here. Positive criticism is always good for learning so have at it.

View attachment 3457911

View attachment 3457914

View attachment 3457918

View attachment 3457920

View attachment 3457921

IMG_3588.jpeg


IMG_3601.jpeg


IMG_3622.jpeg


IMG_3623.jpeg


IMG_3626.jpeg
 
That's quite an involved project. I love the 2nd gen 4Runners. There's another forum called the 95 and older mini truck/4Runner where you might want to put this.

 
Not a ton to update on today. Ran in to some hiccups ill have to fix with the new trans/tcase so I installed the old transmission last night. Leaf springs, shackles and axle are going in for final install (hopefully)

IMG_3739.jpeg


IMG_3740.jpeg


IMG_3737.jpeg
 
That's quite an involved project. I love the 2nd gen 4Runners. There's another forum called the 95 and older mini truck/4Runner where you might want to put this.

Ya still new to posting on forums, can i move this one or do i have to start a new one to do that?
 
Got the diff and shocks in last night. Today i started building out the axles. Cruiser outfitters has the best axle rebuild kits available in my opinion. You can spend 10x the cost on OEM Toyota but when this comes with quality Japanese parts and oe Koyo bearings all for under $200 it’s a no brainier for me. Fresh trunion bearings and races installed. I had to set the pre load since this axle didn’t come with any shims. I learned a little trick working at a Landcruiser shop to use old knuckle studs while assembling your spindle, backing plate, seals and gaskets. On to wheel bearings tonight.

IMG_3745.jpeg


IMG_3747.jpeg


IMG_3748.jpeg


IMG_3749.jpeg
 
Update, I got everything assembled for the most part. New wheel bearings in, hubs on and started on the locking hubs. My first issue was the nice rebuilt locking hubs we had were for an ifs axle. Luckily hubs are the same for ifs and solid axles other than the splined cog that slips over the axle. I took apart another set of grimey hubs and pulled the cog out. It was in rough shape but ended up cleaning up and I got it back in the new hubs.

Unfortunately after we got everything together we ran in to our first major issue. We were swapping to ifs wheel bearing hubs in order to accommodate better brakes. I’ve never done this before so I was unfamiliar with how this works. We put the ifs rotor on and went to put the calipers on and it was nowhere close to fitting. We then found out you need v6 calipers and since this 4runner was a 4 cylinder we didn’t have those. A quick trip to the parts store got us the calipers but they still didn’t fit. It seems there’s a few ways to do this, the most popular seems to be 1gen tacoma brake rotors, but then you need to machine down the outer diameter of the hub so the rotor fits over it. We decided to go with plan B which is use fj60 brake rotors and I don’t believe you dont need to do any machining. The rotors are on their way so we’ll see how it works.

IMG_3756.jpeg


IMG_3758.jpeg


IMG_3759.jpeg


IMG_3762.jpeg


IMG_3753.jpeg
 
We marched forward finishing the axles and installed the trail gear high steer to set it down to see how it looked. The new springs picked it up a little more than the old ones which we expected. It seems to have good down travel and flexes well.

This is when we ran into another issue, at ride height the drag link tie rod end on the pitman arm is only a couple inches above the tie rod. This meant it will make contact if there is any more than a couple inches of up travel. Our options were: 1 buy a flat pitman arm, move the steering box up and flatten it. 2. Set up travel bump stop at 2”. Or figure out some goofy bent tie rod scenario. Option 1 is the right way to do it but with the budget already blown and the rig being down for so long we didn’t want to do that. I decided to go for another option and move the axle back. The stock leaf spring perches on the axle already have multiple alignment pin holes on one side, I just have to match them on the other side. This should move our axle back about an inch and a half and give us some clearance on the pitman arm. It is a cheap easy and reversible solution so we are going for it for now, the next update will be the results of that and the brakes.

IMG_3766.jpeg


IMG_3767.jpeg


IMG_3782.jpeg


IMG_3784.jpeg


IMG_3769.jpeg
 
I had the same steering issue on mine, left the steering box in the OE spot. Moved axle back 1" and couldn't clear 35s with decent backspace wheels at the firewall so I had to move it back to its original spot. Flat pitman or the 3/4 drop Sky pitman arm would be a wise investment.

Solid looking setup and good you did bracing at the frame for the front spring hanger as they rip apart the frame over time :steer:
 
I had the same steering issue on mine, left the steering box in the OE spot. Moved axle back 1" and couldn't clear 35s with decent backspace wheels at the firewall so I had to move it back to its original spot. Flat pitman or the 3/4 drop Sky pitman arm would be a wise investment.

Solid looking setup and good you did bracing at the frame for the front spring hanger as they rip apart the frame over time :steer:
Thanks for the tip, ya I think we’ll probably move it eventually for now moving the axle should get us on the road and out of my garage 😂 What springs were you running? I noticed the alignment pin is 3 or 4 inches forward of the center of the spring. I know thats normal but wondered if that played a part in the issue.
 
I'm running TG 3", tierod and drag link hit on compression. Wanted to do a "low" SAS but regular TG parts were available used cheap.. so it snowballed after that.

I noticed the alignment pin is 3 or 4 inches forward of the center of the spring.
With the RUF springs its even more forward (~1in?) than the regular swap springs if I remember right. Might be stuck with re-positioning the steering box with your setup :hmm:

Understand 100% on just getting it out.. there are things I said I would go back and fix after my swap.. 13 years ago.. :lol: (I'll still get around to them eventually)
 
i just did hysteer on my 85. using dobinson springs. pin is essentially stock position. i have the box pushed all the way to the core support and clocked and sky pitman to get clearances.

my 89 has the box pushed through the core so it worked with RUF setup. now on sky fronts.

sas should be built with steering box practically last. ive seen similar issues way to many times.
 
Looks like an awesome project.
 
I moved the axle back by drilling matching locating holes forward of the stock ones on the spring perches. The ruffstuff u blot plate allows for different postions as well so it worked out. The clearance is a lot better and the axle is centered in the wheel well, I don’t have any issues with the firewall so far. I am using a Trail gear pitman arm, i believe they are shorter than stock so that may be why I’m getting clearance in the factory steering box location.
When looking at the pictures, remember the axle moves back as it goes up and also as you turn either direction the pitman arm and tie rod move away from each other. We’ll see what real life testing shows but getting it as high as I could with the jack in my garage it seems we’ll be alright with this setup.
Time to button things up and get those brakes on when they show up

IMG_3792.jpeg


IMG_3793.jpeg


IMG_3794.jpeg


IMG_3798.jpeg


IMG_3795.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom