1990 1HD-T Baseline? (1 Viewer)

[Dusten]

for 69k miles water pump is probably not necessary. it is however a cheap part and while doing a timing belt it very accessible. once you get to 200k or more i’d be inclined to change it every one or two belts for convenience sake and because they do eventually fail.

After changing my timing belt at 200k I don't see how the water pump is really any more or less difficult.

Without and with the timing belt cover.

 

[franklin40]

because you have to take the timing belt and gear off to get at the water pump. you’re half way there when you change the belt

1hdt timing belt change

i know this has been documented elsewhere but every thread i've looked through is old and the pictures don't show up anymore so i thought i'd document my experience. as a word of caution im not the most knowledgable but am willing to learn so here goes. this is my first timing belt I've ever...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Dusten]

because you have to take the timing belt and gear off to get at the water pump. you’re half way there when you change the belt

1hdt timing belt change

i know this has been documented elsewhere but every thread i've looked through is old and the pictures don't show up anymore so i thought i'd document my experience. as a word of caution im not the most knowledgable but am willing to learn so here goes. this is my first timing belt I've ever...

forum.ih8mud.com

I guess when I looked at mine I didn't see any reason to pull the timing belt. I'll go look again later.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

I guess when I looked at mine I didn't see any reason to pull the timing belt. I'll go look again later.

I learned this the hard way last night. I went to change the water pump and realized that half the bolts were not accessible. Then I confirmed in the FSM and started crying.

It's sneaky, because it is a drive belt driven water pump (not timing belt driven) but you still have to take the timing belt off.

 

[KiwiDingo]

Also wondering as I search for more power when I start adding gear, what would be the proper order of installing parts if I ordered 1 by 1: gturbo, intercooler, injectors, IP? What order would cause the least bottleneck effect on the performance of the rig?

100% the turbo, it's the heart of the whole setup. If you could only change 1 thing on a stock setup the single biggest improvement you can make in performance is the turbo. Done it many times. Sure you can change to bigger exhaust, add a cooler, get bigger injectors etc but none of them come close to the gains you can make from just a simple turbo swap and re-tune.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I wouldn't order parts for it until you assess to prevent wasting money. Mines got 226k km's and isn't leaking any oil.

Very little on it would prevent driving it. So spend a month making a list and enjoying it. Order parts and install when you get back.

Things like fluids, filters, and the timing belt I'd suggest.

Look at the front end. If it needs a knuckle rebuild I highly suggest swapping to 97 lx450/fzj80 brakes. They're bigger and better.

If it needs rear brakes a lot of guys will say try and source the parts to swap to 94+ rears but that's a pain. And for the sheer number of times you'll actually do rear brakes, just get stockers. The pads are standard 80 pads so the dealer has them and the rotors can be sources from cruiserteq. Oem ones.

I did upgraded exhaust and suggest it. Beyond that, I can't speak to power mods.

We can certainly help with the rotors and I 100% agree. As rarely as they are done, swapping to the US spec rear disc stuff really doesn’t safe much if anything.

Rear Brake Rotor - Fits 1/90-7/92 8x Series Non-US w/FF Axle - 312mm Applications (BRR60080)

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

 

[clay763]

Dave, stedman@japan4x4.com can also help with parts, he runs a shop outside Kobe, Japan. I usually just send him list of parts, in the past he has had parts that Partsouq listed as "unavailable". Reasonable prices, especially with the yen to USD conversion.

Back 40 Imports for an ACSD delete kit.

Check your kick down cable on arrival, often neglected item that makes a big impact on drivability.

Brakes before power, the early ones are... lacking. A set of Powerstop extreme front pads made a big impact, if you aren't going to do the rotor/caliper swap.

Clean/relocate your diff breathers, if they are clogged, it may contribute to leaking inner axle seals. Mine were clogged when I got it, the BIRF's left a trail of grease everywhere I parked. Did a breather relocate, and suddenly no more leakage. Obviously I later rebuilt the hubs as well.

If you are going to wheel it, remove your fender flares carefully, put them in a nice box, and save them for later. The early narrow ones are hard as **** to find, don't let a rogue tree destroy one.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Brakes before power, the early ones are... lacking. A set of Powerstop extreme front pads made a big impact, if you aren't going to do the rotor/caliper swap.

I've heard of using an 80-series booster. Which calipers/rotors are the biggest that will directly bolt on?

 

[Dusten]

I've heard of using an 80-series booster. Which calipers/rotors are the biggest that will directly bolt on?

97 calipers and rotors are a direct swap. They require trimming of the backing plate or removal of it. I did the swap.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I've heard of using an 80-series booster. Which calipers/rotors are the biggest that will directly bolt on?

You can use 100 series pads too. They have bigger friction pad and give you a slightly larger swept area on the rotor
I think from memory sometimes the steel plate needs a bit of grinding, but not always.
There'll be threads in the 80s tech section

 

[duece71]

Tagged for interes, great info. Thanks.