sark
42601-60262-03
I'm crossing all my appendages for you
Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”
- Thread starter FJBen
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
What a roller coaster of a couple weeks. Sorry you missed SAS, man. Hope you get a leak free trip in somewhere soon.
B
B
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,844
Well it’s driving great, the clutch feels great and power feels much better compared to all the slipping. I need a lot more miles, but so far the clutch seems great and like it’s another option for these, should be an upgrade.
However….
This is strange…it’s only happened after the past 2 drives. It doesn’t smell strong at all like gear oil even though it looks like it. I definitely know what gear oil smells like
It’s beading up like water. It also high up on a side bolt.
Part of me thinks it’s coolant from somewhere. ..although there doesn’t seem to be any leaking that I can see. When it cools down I’ll take another look. It’s possible it could be coming from the oil cooler as it’s on that side…
However….
This is strange…it’s only happened after the past 2 drives. It doesn’t smell strong at all like gear oil even though it looks like it. I definitely know what gear oil smells like
It’s beading up like water. It also high up on a side bolt.
Part of me thinks it’s coolant from somewhere. ..although there doesn’t seem to be any leaking that I can see. When it cools down I’ll take another look. It’s possible it could be coming from the oil cooler as it’s on that side…
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,846
Well, confirmed gear oil from the bellhousing.
Only had a little drop the other day after fully washing it off. Decided to tape the hole on the bottom of the bellhousing and test drive. When I got home, no oil on outside. Pulled the tape and oil in there on the tape.
It’s time for a rebuild. I’ve been pushing this off long enough. It’s kind of a bummer as it shifts great, doesn’t pop out. It’s really only the input shaft or bearing retainer causing the issue. The problem being to fix the input shaft you basically have to tear the transmission down quite a ways. Might as well rebuild it with 545,000kms on it.
Hopefully a rebuild will fix this for the next 300k + miles
time to order some parts
Only had a little drop the other day after fully washing it off. Decided to tape the hole on the bottom of the bellhousing and test drive. When I got home, no oil on outside. Pulled the tape and oil in there on the tape.
It’s time for a rebuild. I’ve been pushing this off long enough. It’s kind of a bummer as it shifts great, doesn’t pop out. It’s really only the input shaft or bearing retainer causing the issue. The problem being to fix the input shaft you basically have to tear the transmission down quite a ways. Might as well rebuild it with 545,000kms on it.
Hopefully a rebuild will fix this for the next 300k + miles
time to order some parts
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,847
Always good news then bad.
Thought I had located a new B series input shaft but that didn’t work out. So leaves me with only a few options.
1: find a good used 3b input shaft. I have some feelers out and will be putting up a wanted add here. Not having much luck either.
2: try getting my input shaft repaired via splatter welding like they do on cranks and cams etc. I have no idea if this is viable but seems like it should be. Going to call some local shops and see what I can find out.
3: fit an hz input shaft and i believe HZ bellhousing. You can make a 10-12mm spacer and Then use an HZ splined clutch disc. This is kind of a nuclear option. Potential driveline issues with the rear shaft
Thought I had located a new B series input shaft but that didn’t work out. So leaves me with only a few options.
1: find a good used 3b input shaft. I have some feelers out and will be putting up a wanted add here. Not having much luck either.
2: try getting my input shaft repaired via splatter welding like they do on cranks and cams etc. I have no idea if this is viable but seems like it should be. Going to call some local shops and see what I can find out.
3: fit an hz input shaft and i believe HZ bellhousing. You can make a 10-12mm spacer and Then use an HZ splined clutch disc. This is kind of a nuclear option. Potential driveline issues with the rear shaft
I believe Cruiser Outfitters has a solution for a 1HZ input shaft substitution.
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,855
Here is the info I found on this swap from @Gengis
And just as a matter of interest, if any one comes across a HZ gearbox and wants to fit it to a B engine then instead of going to all the hassel, especially if the transfer case is fitted, then the solution is:
Take the plate between the engine and gearbox to a profile cutter and make a 10mm spacer made . Cut the inside of the spacer away to save weight , but no need to clear the flywheel as the existing plate and the adaptor still fit behind it. Use a suitable clutch plate with the correct splines and diameter and buy some longer locating pins. I did not do the maths on the clutch travel, but all I can say is that the lever and bearing action do not seem suffer from the 10mm extra length.
There you go, its been a long while now, but it's held out well for almost 15 years and going strong and it is used extensivily off road.
Back then I knew nothing about H55F's except that I wanted one and this box is what i managed to find. I put it all together on the garage floor and discovered that the shaft was too long, so as mentioned I took the Toyota metal spacer and used it as a pattern for the new spacer.
I cant remember why I used both in the end, but probably because I needed a 12mm spacer and only had a 10 mm plate.
the engine is a B series MKII. ( rotary IP) and on this engine there is enough space for both between the block and the flywheel.
No problem with the clutch except that I may have played around with the actuator rod length, really cant remember.
reeeeaally, hmmm damn
