Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (4 Viewers)

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A great day learning all things 13B-T before I hopefully go to pick one up next week for transplant into my 3B powered BJ70.... now to work out some of the wiring that is different between the two, and setting up some auxillary gauges (boost and EGT) for in the cab.

What’s the mileage and history of the 13bt? What planned maintenance do you have in mind?
 
What’s the mileage and history of the 13bt? What planned maintenance do you have in mind?
~250,000km, auto box'd from a 1986 BJ74. Been pulled out to be replaced with more power, so not sure what he dropped in instead. My 3B is ~460,000km and best used as a boat anchor as it has a cracked head and severely corroded pistons/liners (locked the engine type). See here...

Looks like it ran nicely, comes with a 3" stainless exhaust (which will need a bit a tweak to fit a BJ70). Maintenance will be starting of with a good flush out of the cooling system (I have a pressure connection for the hose pipe that is then hooked up to a compressor to aerate the water and clean things out well) and oil, and then see what it does after that.

The big thing is that it works.... although I will have to run a 3B clutch (260mm) rather than a 13B (275mm) as I don't have a 13B-T flywheel. Ultimately the BJ70 is going to be set up as a little weekend tourer - for longer trips we've got the 80 series, but there are times that the BJ70 will the right one to use.

Interestingly, I can't seem to find many details from anyone who has done a 3B to 13B-T in terms of wiring in the glow circuit, but based on your comments of only really needing the glows below about -10*C, I don't think it's a drama for me here - it gets to that maybe once or twice a year overnight, but by morning it'll be back into more fridge temperatures rather than freezer temperatures.
 
Had a few hours to work on the cruiser. It’s hot 🥵 dropped the transmission and pulled it apart again…


Speedi sleeve wear.
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Removing speedi sleeve, give it a tap with a cold chisel. Not sharp, comes right off.

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Put my 2mm shims under the bearing retainer and test fit the seal. I used some type of paint pen…you can see the pitted surface.


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Spun the seal and see where it sits. I could go in a little more but run the risk of the seal rubbing. Was a little harts to see the line and it kept moving.

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The next step was to get ready to get this shaft cleaned up. First, grab some gold spray paint. Next get a paper bag. Spray the gold paint into the paper bag. Take a deep breath as you’ve got some monotonous work coming up….

This may or may not be a picture of me hours later in the store looking for sand paper.

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Finally after a few more hours of wandering around the store singing “this is the end” by the doors I got some 600 grit and 1500 grit and started sanding…and sanding…sanding.
I listened to Pink Floyd’s the wall, some college radio and watched a documentary on OxyContin. I sanded until I couldn’t feel my hands…

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There are still some small pitting spots, very small, but it looks much better than it did. Again, just hoping that this is smoothed out enough and any ridges/high spots can be handled by the seal. I have no idea if or
How long this will work.

Stabbed the transmission, first try which was great…bolted her all up in the over 90 degree heat and went for a test drive.

Only a short drive of about 30 miles, but not leaking yet. I’ll test again in the morning.
 
That was short lived. Leaking again. :rolleyes: The only thing I can think of is that it’s just worn out and wobbling Causing the seal to destruct. The last 3 seals, none have lasted longer than 100 miles.

@orangefj45 had mentioned that the bearing retainers can wear out as well. Not sure what that means or effect it can have.

The bearing surface is pretty smooth.

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Apparently either not smooth enough, or something else is just so worn that it’s killing seals so quick.
This part is the bad part I’m worried about. Finding another shaft, but imo if I rebuild and clean the shaft up some more, I’m hoping it will be alright….but I don’t know.


Again, putting it off for years, I suppose I need to just get it done. 546,000kms served well.

The pullers are the big ticket item here besides the NLA shaft, although after smoothing this I’m not sure the shaft is the issue.
 
Had a few hours to work on the cruiser. It’s hot 🥵 dropped the transmission and pulled it apart again…


Speedi sleeve wear.
View attachment 3405445


Removing speedi sleeve, give it a tap with a cold chisel. Not sharp, comes right off.

View attachment 3405441

Put my 2mm shims under the bearing retainer and test fit the seal. I used some type of paint pen…you can see the pitted surface.


View attachment 3405442


Spun the seal and see where it sits. I could go in a little more but run the risk of the seal rubbing. Was a little harts to see the line and it kept moving.

View attachment 3405443


The next step was to get ready to get this shaft cleaned up. First, grab some gold spray paint. Next get a paper bag. Spray the gold paint into the paper bag. Take a deep breath as you’ve got some monotonous work coming up….

This may or may not be a picture of me hours later in the store looking for sand paper.

View attachment 3406754


Finally after a few more hours of wandering around the store singing “this is the end” by the doors I got some 600 grit and 1500 grit and started sanding…and sanding…sanding.
I listened to Pink Floyd’s the wall, some college radio and watched a documentary on OxyContin. I sanded until I couldn’t feel my hands…

View attachment 3406768


There are still some small pitting spots, very small, but it looks much better than it did. Again, just hoping that this is smoothed out enough and any ridges/high spots can be handled by the seal. I have no idea if or
How long this will work.

Stabbed the transmission, first try which was great…bolted her all up in the over 90 degree heat and went for a test drive.

Only a short drive of about 30 miles, but not leaking yet. I’ll test again in the morning.
I hope you know/used the "bow and bootlace" method. Similar to starting a fire without matches where you use a bow to spin a stick. You have sandpaper wrapped and taped to your shaft and your bow and string sound it around the shaft.
 
Time to make a decision. At this point, if I were in your shoes, I'd buy a new H55 with an H input shaft from Cruiser Outfitters and get the spacer.

You know it's going to work and you won't touch it again for the rest of your life.

What's your time worth to you? Mine is getting more valuable by the minute.
 
I hope you know/used the "bow and bootlace" method. Similar to starting a fire without matches where you use a bow to spin a stick. You have sandpaper wrapped and taped to your shaft and your bow and string sound it around the shaft.
Basically yes. Wrapped around and sanding. But 600 grit and 1500 grit won’t do much other than polish it up. Trust me, it took a long time just to remove very surface stuff.
 
Time to make a decision. At this point, if I were in your shoes, I'd buy a new H55 with an H input shaft from Cruiser Outfitters and get the spacer.

You know it's going to work and you won't touch it again for the rest of your life.

What's your time worth to you? Mine is getting more valuable by the minute.

It for sure is…which is why I’ve been trying everything.

I see a few issues with the new H h55f input, although it’s not a horrible option.

$2,800 plus Shipping, ouch
New clutch disk to match H input
Machine costs for spacer of 10mm-11mm
H55f bellhousing for H/(shorter) $?

I’m betting all said and done I’m $4k plus I’m those parts. I didn’t add the tcase rebuild parts/oil as that happens any way. Possible clutch slave issues? I’m guessing no driveline issues as it’s just 1/2” difference.


But you are right, I probably wouldn’t have to touch it again.


If I do the rebuild myself (with help from some friends and a possibly 30 year diesel/semi/otr mechanic if I get stuck) I should be in for $350-450 rebuild kit, machine costs on input shaft, $100 synchros.

And by all accounts, as long as the gears arent ruined or all shafts ruined, that h55f should Last a long time. I haven’t heard of many rebuild failures, but I haven’t also heard on a serial leaking problem like I’m having. It’s possible the bearing retainer is bad as well. Add another $75 for a good used one.

If I’m paying someone else to rebuild, then yeah it Probabaly makes sense to look at the new and fab it in.
 
Could it be smooth as glass but out of round or bent? Just spitballing here.
Yeah that’s what I’m wondering if it’s the input shaft or just something worn in the transmission.

I’m not sure Toyotas service life on the h55f, but man this one is quiet, shifts great, doesn’t pop out or even grind..,just normal notchy.
 
Something about the seal surface on the input shaft “doesn’t look right”.
Can you measure the seal surface diameter with a set of mics?

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
 
Something about the seal surface on the input shaft “doesn’t look right”.
Can you measure the seal surface diameter with a set of mics?

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

I actually don’t have it out anymore to measure. This is what it measured a few years ago when I first had the issue with calipers.


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The last pictures were just off where I polished it. What doesn’t look right on it?
 
Drove it again. 2 small trips, no leaks.

took another trip, 6 miles drips, continued Drove another 25 to drop something off, then 30 home and I could kind of see 1 drop.
Put the tcase in neutral, went to 5th gear 1800rpms for almost 10 minutes, no drips.

I’m assuming with the load of the vehicle, the transmission bearings/shafts have more play due to the torque/resistance. With tcase in neutral there isn’t any load so all spins fine. That’s my crappy theory.

And of course this new little gem just happened. Time to replace those brake hoses.

Are the 60 series hoses the same as the 70 series?

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And of course obligatory photo.

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Is it lifted?
Onur had good info on Toyota hoses that are longer.
 
Is it lifted?
Onur had good info on Toyota hoses that are longer.
That is the line from the axle housing to the knuckle, no extension necessary with a lift.
 
Inspired by @SipLife and his awesome 40 series, (check it out, he runs a 70 series rear axle)
Builds - Bluebonnet - 5.3/H55 FJ40 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bluebonnet-5-3-h55-fj40.1145538/

He just got done doing the griots treatment….using griots complete care and a buffer.

Well I had meguiers complete on hand which is a cleaner wax similar to griots.

Hard to see, but 1/2 the hood done. I did alright, but it needs clay bar and more work and someone that knows what they are doing.

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Mostly clean.
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Found this “mistake” photo I took the other day. I fat fingered and it zoomed in, but looking back it’s kinda cool in niche 70 series option sorta way.


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Where’s my ho’s at?

2 days later I Got these in the mail. Cruiser outfitters is nice and fast.

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Went out to the garage and saw this after I rolled it back. Yep that would have been bad.
Brake fluid makes such a mess.

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Yep these were bad.

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All in and working. Drove into town to power wash all brake fluid off, no leaks and no transmission leaks this time.

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Usual poser stuff.

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