Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (5 Viewers)

[FJBen]

So onward we go.

Again this all a moving target as pressure, cfm etc change with temp/humidity/elevation as stated earlier. What you find out is not all turbo makers publish compressor maps, not all compressor maps are even in the same format. Some are cfm, some are lbs/min, some are kg/s. A little more math that you thought you would never use will get you going. Most are in lbs/min so lets convert that.

410cfm should be around what the engine needs at 22psi and 3400RPM.
conversion to lbs/min I've found many formula's, but in reality it's again based on actual temp/density. A few turbo publishers use .069 ~ .071 so I'm going with that.
410cfm x .069 = 28.2lbs/min

Lets take a look at some maps of turbos people have thrown out to work here on mud. THe GT2052R is one that has been used in 3B kits with good reports.
Again I'm using around the max flow the 13BT needs at 3400rpm.

Garret GT2052R

So what this is showing us is that Pressure ratio on the "Y" ratio. I'm using 2.5 to get my desired 22psi. The "X" axis is the lbs/min the engine needs, in my case 28lbs at 22psi at 3400rpm.
So that topographic map looking area is where the turbo flows air and how efficiently it does it at the pressure ratio. Those are called efficiency islands. (from a site): The efficiency of a turbocharger is measured by its ability to compress the air without adding excessive heat. The higher the efficiency, the cooler the outlet temperature for a given boost pressure (it will still be above ambient temperature). So ideally you want to be in the middle, the most efficient.

Too far to the right of the map and the turbo will choke out meaning turbo speeds will increase greatly and efficiency goes down quickly. Garret states this line is at 58% or below efficiency. Air stops flowing correctly, heats generated and damage to turbo can occur. Lots of heat = bad.

Too far to the left of the map is the surge line. From garrett: Operation to the left of this line represents a region of flow instability. This region is characterized by mild flutter to wildly fluctuating boost and “barking” from the compressor. Again bad, damage to turbo can occur. Too much air, no where to go.


So looking at the GT2052R, it's going to be choking out big time at 22psi. At lower boost numbers it will be OK, but will run out of air to push rather quickly.

 

[FJBen]

Lets try another Garrett turbo, slightly larger one.

Garrett GT2552

This looks to be a much better fit than the GT2052R. Still looks like up at the higher pressure ratios it's going to choke out, but overall not too bad. When I add in altitude it is probably a little further than the choke line than it appears. We can do better.


Enter the HE221W. It comes in A LOT of variations. Holset doesn't do "trim" like Garrett does, they use cm for the housing size. The Holset HE221W comes in 5cm, 5.5cm, 6cm, 7cm, 8.5cm twin scroll and more. Here is a compressor map of the common 7cm HE221W.

Alright, this looks pretty good. Not going to choke this out, even if I ran 3.0 Pressure ratio or 30psi on the guage. As you can see compared to the Garrett maps, this one is wider. This is looking pretty good. Again since I'm at altitude of 5,000', I'm really on 12.2psi. So at altitude you want to error on a smaller housing/trim/etc. I couldn't find a specific compressor map for the 5.5cm version of the HE221w. I did however find the HE211 5cm which is smaller but will get me a idea.

HE211W 5cm

thats looking pretty good as well. It's a little closer to choking out so if I go down in altitude, I could potentially have some choking issues.

 

[FJBen]

I have the 5.5cm. So my compressor map lands somewhere in between the 5cm and 7cm.

HE211W is capable of 32lbs/min
HE221W is capable of 38lbs/min

Some math should put the 5.5cm in the 33~34lbs/min which would be right in spec and room to grow if ever wanted. This should be a pretty good fit for the 13BT. Another option listed by a very knowledgeable member Dougal suggested the TD04-19T.

TD04-19T

This turbo appears to be the most efficient out of all the turbos I looked at. Again, the HE221W is based off of this. That being said, I couldn't find a TD04H-19T genuine and mostly just copie/chinese so that's another reason I went with the Holset over this. Not that you couldn't have great luck with a copy or something, just my personal feeling.

 

[FJBen]

Still sporting the soft top. Usually I'm hard top by now, but this has been a warm year and the full softtop makes chilly mornings and rain storms much easier to deal with.



On the maintenance front, I just started hearing some popping when turning and feeling it in the steering wheel. Never a good thing.

Got my some to turn the wheel while I hopped out and looks like the relay rod to pitMan arm end is popping around I know you can adjust the slop out of these, but with popping I’m not going to take my chance on a $50.00 part.

That said I had to buy a full kit so I have spares. I just put this full 555 kit on a little over a year ago so I'm not sure why it failed. Thanks @cruiseroutfit for the quick shipping.

 

[FJBen]

Well that explains a lot. Apparently no grease ever got in so that would explain the failure.

Hard to see but it was wearing a groove. Got bad enough to start popping.

Steering is quiet and feeling much better.

 

[FJBen]

Here is the HE221W > CT26 adapter. It's 3/4" and from Custom Fab Shop. CustomFabShop.com | Custom Automotive Fabrication - https://www.customfabshop.com/

Oil Feed Line

 

[FJBen]

A small issue. When using this certain kind of wastegate bracket, the studs provided aren't long enough for the bracket and 2 gaskets.

So I ordered up some new studs from Metric Hardware, Metric Fasteners, Metric Bolts, Metric Nuts & Time-Sert Thread Repair - https://www.belmetric.com/ Great cheap site for tons of metric hardware in any shape. I ended up getting stainless studs slightly longer than stock., 6mm.

 

[FJBen]

Took a trip up to visit friends at their cabin in Eldora, CO. Eldora is just past the town of Nederland, CO famous for the Frozen Dead Guy days. Frozen Dead Guy Days - Wikipedia - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frozen_Dead_Guy_Days

You go up Boulder Canyon to get there, which has grades of up to 10%. Good time to check the running of the 13BT. You get up to over 8000' in elevation. As you know the 13BT is rated for 120HP stock, new. THe BJ74 weighs 4600lbs. It's about a 15 mile test up a curvy road. Great drive, wasn't really busy and the colors are beautiful.

With 3 people, a dog and just a few things I was able to motor up the canyon at 40~45mph without flogging on it. I did max temp a few seconds at 1250F but overall most were at 1000~1100Fish. I could have pushed it higher in the RPM range, but chose to stay under 3000RPM. Thats still under max HP rating at 3400RPM from factory.

I'm pretty sure @Onur used to live in Nederland and knows that drive quite well in a 70 series. @theglobb also knows about altitude driving with a 3B

 

[OGBeno]

Twice a day, five days a week, for about one year. I loved coming down hill. I would generally wait as long as possible in the day to go back up the canyon. So as not to block traffic.

 

[FJBen]

Everyone loves pictures

Some tech:

A naturally aspirated (non-turbo) engine will lose 3% of it's horsepower for every 1000' feet of elevation above sea level. A turbo engine won't loose near as much, Hard to find the concrete data on that especially with engines that a electronically controlled injection and turbos.

That said, this little snipped from Garrett will explain the effects of altitude.

What you can see, to maintain the same target horsepower, you need way more air and a higher pressure ratio to get there. So what does that mean? It means your turbo has to work much harder to get the same results and HP. So if your turbo is not matched to your engine and altitude well....performance suffers and the potential for bad things to happen occur.

So we need a higher pressure ratio to keep the same target horsepower. Recap: The Pressure Ratio is the total absolute pressure produced by the turbo divided by the atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi). 14.7psi is atmospheric pressure at SEA LEVEL. So you can see by the chart above you have to boost almost 7psi more to get the same HP at 10,000' as at sea level. Thats cool, we have that option that you don't have on a NA car. However that comes with drawbacks.


according to borg warner and diesel site:
Now, as the air density changes (let’s say goes down, as with higher altitudes) the thermal energy needed to turn a specific RPM decreases, causing an increase in turbine shaft speed. According to Kurt Henderson, Engineer – Accelerated Innovation at BorgWarner, “A good rule of thumb is that the turbocharger speed will increase 1 to 2 percent every 1,000 ft of elevation increase.”.

So I could have 5% to %10 higher turbo speeds where I live at 5000' compared to someone at sea level with the same turbo. So what does that mean in real world? It means the same amount of boost coming on a few hundred RPMs later. That really sucks especially when in the mountains and hills. Last thing these underpowered diesel land cruisers need is more lag from the turbo.

So to counter this, you go with a smaller turbine housing. Boosts quicker so you get rid of that lag. Again you have to make sure that turbo can handle everything efficiently or you get a turbo that chokes out quickly.



also:
A general rule of thumb is that one lb/min roughly equates to support 10 horsepower, Doesn't mean makes that much HP, just means it can support up to that. That also means this turbo will easily be able support the horsepower/performance/efficiency of the 13BT.

 

[AirheadNut]

Very interesting! I had always wondered how altitude effected turbocharged engines but had never taken the time to research it. What I find very interesting is that according to the data from Garrett you posted when boost is increased to keep the same HP torque increased significantly.

 

[FJBen]

Very interesting! I had always wondered how altitude effected turbocharged engines but had never taken the time to research it. What I find very interesting is that according to the data from Garrett you posted when boost is increased to keep the same HP torque increased significantly.

Maybe I'm missing something but isn't that chart showing the HP & Torque the same values with more boost at altitude?

 

[Rigster]

Hard to find the concrete data on that especially with engines that a electronically controlled injection and turbos.

Bingo!

It is a little frustrating not being able to connect a computer to "see" what is actually happening on the fly... but personally, I prefer an all mechanical setup, and just set up everything through trial and error for where I live. The downside? A little less efficiency and noticeable power loss climbing hills at higher elevations. But the I will suffer that gladly for simplicity and no worries of electrical component failures. Currently I am really happy with the performance I am currently seeing out of my 1HZ.

I definitely have an advantage where I live Ben, I am only at ~1250ft elevation, and the passes around here are generally HALF of what you deal with so we are definitely not comparing apples to apples here. It's on the bucket list to tour around there someday (if the world stops being CRAZY and lets us canucks in someday... lol)

If I am impatient to see the new turbo in your ride, you must have a terrible itch! Keep up the great build thread bud, and post the results soon!

 

[FJBen]

Bingo!

It is a little frustrating not being able to connect a computer to "see" what is actually happening on the fly... but personally, I prefer an all mechanical setup, and just set up everything through trial and error for where I live. The downside? A little less efficiency and noticeable power loss climbing hills at higher elevations. But the I will suffer that gladly for simplicity and no worries of electrical component failures. Currently I am really happy with the performance I am currently seeing out of my 1HZ.

I definitely have an advantage where I live Ben, I am only at ~1250ft elevation, and the passes around here are generally HALF of what you deal with so we are definitely not comparing apples to apples here. It's on the bucket list to tour around there someday (if the world stops being CRAZY and lets us canucks in someday... lol)

If I am impatient to see the new turbo in your ride, you must have a terrible itch! Keep up the great build thread bud, and post the results soon!

Yeah the more complex the system, the more stuff just goes wrong. I'm an analog guy for sure. I realize I'm driving old school tech and I really like it that way. I drove a 2000 TDI Jetta and while it was great, man when you had to work on stuff or trouble shoot, it was bring out the computer and plug in and try and figure it out.
There should be enough performance bump in this turbo to put this cruiser how it should be rather than really laggy from the factory.

Come on down to the lower 48, Colorado needs more cruisers.

I'm definitely impatient to get it going. I have just been so busy with the move and family things, it makes for not much garage time. I still have a few things to get and figure out on this build, but I'm definitely chomping at the bit to get this turbo slapped on.



Here's what we are usually doing 2~3times a week. Thats my daughter spiking it off the other girls face lol. Getting ready to head to a game here shortly. Senior year so enjoying all this time I can get.

 

[AirheadNut]

Maybe I'm missing something but isn't that chart showing the HP & Torque the same values with more boost at altitude?

No, I was completely misreading that chart! You're correct, same HP and torque at each altitude.

 

[Rigster]

Yeah the more complex the system, the more stuff just goes wrong. I'm an analog guy for sure. I realize I'm driving old school tech and I really like it that way. I drove a 2000 TDI Jetta and while it was great, man when you had to work on stuff or trouble shoot, it was bring out the computer and plug in and try and figure it out.
There should be enough performance bump in this turbo to put this cruiser how it should be rather than really laggy from the factory.

Come on down to the lower 48, Colorado needs more cruisers.

I'm definitely impatient to get it going. I have just been so busy with the move and family things, it makes for not much garage time. I still have a few things to get and figure out on this build, but I'm definitely chomping at the bit to get this turbo slapped on.



Here's what we are usually doing 2~3times a week. Thats my daughter spiking it off the other girls face lol. Getting ready to head to a game here shortly. Senior year so enjoying all this time I can get.

LOL - nice! Yeah I hear you there bud! I am busy with my oldest son in Volleyball and going to games every week and having to plan around tournaments here and there. I am also selling my place so have a move in the near future. Need more space!!! So the poor Land Cruiser is getting bumped a lot for higher priority items like family!

 

[FJBen]

Yeah M8
Not M10. I was thinking of ct26 side. New ones on order.

So while not bone chilling, fall is upon us and weather getting cooler. 28F degrees this morning. Cruiser is outside under a covered but not fully enclosed pole barn last night.
Not cold enough to activate glow screen.

 

[FJBen]

Turbo drain. It’s going to be close on getting one to fit with how the clocking has to be. I took a flier on this one for a GT28 thinking I could modify it, shorten and use a hose as a lot of the AN fittings might not fit.

Initial fit looks good.

After a closer look I don’t think this is going to work.

The tube is slightly smaller than the outlet on the turbo by like 2mm and any restriction isn’t a good idea. It was a cheap enough test so I’ve got another one on that says it’s the correct 19mm size. For now I’m sticking with a hose/tube drain and then Probabaly switching to AN when I can find the right sizes.
The cheaper AN fittings really size down and aren’t true so something to watch for.

 

[FJBen]

Here is a video from @Nz Nath who has a 13BT/H55F setup in a Land Rover using this 7cm Holset turbo. He had the 5.5cm and said it boosted sooner but worked really well. He's at sea level, I'm at 5000' and go higher so it might be a good match. He has since gone to the twin scroll 8.5 version and different manifold. He's been helpful giving me feedback and information on the Holset swap.

 

[Rigster]

Nice... it looks to boost as quickly as my setup. Is it a requirement where he is from to drive his landrover barefoot??