SOLVED! (Kind of?) See post on 2/17/22.
Hey guys,
First post here in the tech section. Quick background to better understand what I'm dealing with:
I bought this nearly all-stock '87 60-series about 3 years ago from the original owner's family here in San Diego, CA. Truck currently has about 290,000 miles, which is up there but still a strong runner. Drove it for about a year and a half (with zero issues) before it failed emissions and has been off the road since. I would start it weekly and drive it around the neighborhood to keep things fluid. One day it would not start, and decided to have a reputable Land Cruiser company perform a rebuild on the carb. Now that I've had some time (and money) to dive into it, a few issues have come up that have left myself and my Toyota tech buddy pretty stumped.
NOTE: The choke issue below did not arise until the carburetor was rebuilt.
With everything connected and normal, the truck starts immediately (regardless of engine temp) and runs strong for about 5 seconds, before quickly dying. The majority of my troubleshooting has been done in 60-80 degree weather, which I understand can have an influence on the lower (pink) bi-metal vacuum switching valve that is coolant-temp operated, at 41 and 66 degrees fahrenheit. Essentially, it seems that the choke opener (not to be confused with the choke breaker) is opening immediately upon startup and overriding the manual choke due to an unknown reason. Is this normal? When removing the choke opener vacuum line, the truck will run for about 15-20 seconds before the choke breaker kicks in and causes the truck to die. With BOTH the choke breaker and choke opener vacuum lines removed, the truck will run fine at a higher idle with the choke manually closed. Once the choke is open, whether that be vacuum or manually controlled, the truck dies. However, it WILL idle with the choke fully open while spraying starting fluid into the carb. Fuel is getting into the carb and sits at the center of the sight glass on the front. At this point, we still believe we have a fuel delivery issue based on the troubleshooting performed. We went through the majority of the emissions manual testing the valves, switches, etc with no luck.
I recently replaced:
- Fuel pump
- Fuel filter
- ALL vacuum lines (referencing the factory 2F emissions control manual in the process)
- Carburetor Rebuild
- Fuel cut solenoid
- Both bi-metal vacuum switching valves
- Distributor vacuum advance diaphragm (old one did not hold vacuum)
- Distributor cap and rotor
- Spark plug wires
- Spark plugs
- Ignition coil
- Re-timed the truck to factory spec
I know the folks on this forum are a plethora of information and tech knowledge, so any and all comments are welcome and appreciated. PLEASE feel free to tell me I'm a dummy and overlooking something simple! Thanks!
Hey guys,
First post here in the tech section. Quick background to better understand what I'm dealing with:
I bought this nearly all-stock '87 60-series about 3 years ago from the original owner's family here in San Diego, CA. Truck currently has about 290,000 miles, which is up there but still a strong runner. Drove it for about a year and a half (with zero issues) before it failed emissions and has been off the road since. I would start it weekly and drive it around the neighborhood to keep things fluid. One day it would not start, and decided to have a reputable Land Cruiser company perform a rebuild on the carb. Now that I've had some time (and money) to dive into it, a few issues have come up that have left myself and my Toyota tech buddy pretty stumped.
NOTE: The choke issue below did not arise until the carburetor was rebuilt.
With everything connected and normal, the truck starts immediately (regardless of engine temp) and runs strong for about 5 seconds, before quickly dying. The majority of my troubleshooting has been done in 60-80 degree weather, which I understand can have an influence on the lower (pink) bi-metal vacuum switching valve that is coolant-temp operated, at 41 and 66 degrees fahrenheit. Essentially, it seems that the choke opener (not to be confused with the choke breaker) is opening immediately upon startup and overriding the manual choke due to an unknown reason. Is this normal? When removing the choke opener vacuum line, the truck will run for about 15-20 seconds before the choke breaker kicks in and causes the truck to die. With BOTH the choke breaker and choke opener vacuum lines removed, the truck will run fine at a higher idle with the choke manually closed. Once the choke is open, whether that be vacuum or manually controlled, the truck dies. However, it WILL idle with the choke fully open while spraying starting fluid into the carb. Fuel is getting into the carb and sits at the center of the sight glass on the front. At this point, we still believe we have a fuel delivery issue based on the troubleshooting performed. We went through the majority of the emissions manual testing the valves, switches, etc with no luck.
I recently replaced:
- Fuel pump
- Fuel filter
- ALL vacuum lines (referencing the factory 2F emissions control manual in the process)
- Carburetor Rebuild
- Fuel cut solenoid
- Both bi-metal vacuum switching valves
- Distributor vacuum advance diaphragm (old one did not hold vacuum)
- Distributor cap and rotor
- Spark plug wires
- Spark plugs
- Ignition coil
- Re-timed the truck to factory spec
I know the folks on this forum are a plethora of information and tech knowledge, so any and all comments are welcome and appreciated. PLEASE feel free to tell me I'm a dummy and overlooking something simple! Thanks!
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