Builds 1987 fj60 12h-t h55f conversion

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cleaned up the rear oil seal retainer
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New rear main seal installed and driven in flush. If you look on the back side there is a step in the retainer so the seal doesnt go in too deep.
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Put a couple of studs in it as well to help line up the oil pan when we get to that. I put a generous coat of oil on the end of the crank and also some permalube grease on the seal lip to keep it nice and lubricated until the engine is ran in.

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Got both idler gears and camshaft installed both idler gears torqued to 34 ft.lbs and the cam thrust plate to 27 ft.lbs. the cam gear to cam bolt is 33 ft.lbs. The gears are clearly marked so they were super easy to get in time.
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In this picture you can see all four gears aligned.

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Ready for a front timing cover.
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Got the front timing cover and oil cooler cover blasted...was planning on anodizing them but apparently limited to black, green ,red, and blue. Had to pass on that so not sure what to do. I ordered my own powder coating gun and some clear and cast aluminum powder so may try that out but don't have the oven set up yet. I bought a pretty good sized commercial oven and received it today but didn't realize it is three phase which I don't have at my place.

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Also after three months this guy finally came in.

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The compressor really made installing the pistons a breeze. Rings were oriented with the oil ring at 2 o'clock (oil ring coil directly opposite) second compression ring at 11 o'clock and first compression ring opposite that. I torqued the rod bolts in three steps 21lb ft, 44lb ft, and finally 65lb ft.

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Where did you source your complete gasket set?
 
There are powder coating set ups that can be used with a heat gun. Not ideal but for small parts it can be usefull.

Yeah I've seen those. I'm going to wait a bit longer and go ahead set up my oven.

Where did you source your complete gasket set?
I ordered one from Dave at Japan 4x4 and the last one from Australia.
 
where and how can i get one of these from. please let me know. thanks. i'd like to know that in the future i could upgrade.

They've been discontinued for a very long time. The gentleman I bought them from in Northern Ireland has had them for 25 years.
 
Any updates on MLS head gaskets for the 12HT.. Or has this always just been a rumour??

Here in South Africa we can only get the Victor Reinz kits which are for the 2H and 12HT but obviously with a fibre head gasket which can be used or either engine.
 
Any updates on MLS head gaskets for the 12HT.. Or has this always just been a rumour??

Here in South Africa we can only get the Victor Reinz kits which are for the 2H and 12HT but obviously with a fibre head gasket which can be used or either engine.

There was guy on here that had some mls head gaskets made for a 12ht maybe from radd cruisers or ebi. Im not going to try to push my 12ht's to do anything they weren't designed to do so the factory Toyota gasket is good enough for me.
 
Installed two studs on the oil pump for the oil pan to ease with alignment.

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Oil pan was blasted and powder coated along with the stiffening plate.

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This is the sealant I use on all of my builds that call for sealant.

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I replated all of the hardware for the oil pan

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new gaskets for the oil pick up tubes
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as well as new copper gaskets for the banjo bolt.
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The banjo bolt is torqued to 33lb ft and the pickup tube nuts are torqued to 13lb ft.
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I also added a magnetic drain plug to the oil pan
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I sent the cylinder head to the machine shop. They did a valve job and installed new valve seals that came in my overhaul gasket set. They also installed all new freeze plugs. While it was at the shop they informed me that the head has 6 steel cylindrical tubes that were corroded and leaking. I ordered these from Pilbara in Australia and had them installed while the head was at the machine shop. The machine shop hot tanked and pressure tested and magnafluxed the head but unfortunately they didn't paint it. So I cleaned it with acetone, taped it up and put some primer and several coats of engine enamel on it.

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