Builds 1987 fj60 12h-t h55f conversion (2 Viewers)

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After a month wait I have 26 new head bolts. Apparently Toyota realized these should be a non import part here in the states after they sent me the first pack of ten and my dealer had to convince them to send the remaining 16. I hope I didn't throw up any red flags in the system and these will still be available. They are the same bolts as the 3b.



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I hand test fit all the bolts to make sure the threads are perfectly clean

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I cleaned the deck with denatured alcohol one final time

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New Toyota head gasket

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Cleaned the head off with some denatured alcohol as well

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Ready for some bolts
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The head bolts are tightened in sequence to a final 83 ft lbs in four steps. 21, 42, 63, and 84. I decided it was easier to number the head bolts with a sharpie instead of looking back at the service manual after every bolt.

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Pushrods inspected and cleaned up.

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Push rods installed and rocker assembly back together with a generous amount oil and torqued to 13 ft lbs. from the center out.
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Preliminary valve adjustment intake .20mm and exhaust .36 mm

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New valve cover gasket and grommets and replated nuts :)

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So as much as I'd love to keep my grubby hands on every 12h-t I run across I simply can't afford to do so. This rebuilt long block is for sale. I'm going to install the new old stock engines in my 40 and my 60 and also rebuild the 12ht that left me stranded in Canada.
 
bear with me, i'm off to rob the bank:mad::bang:

i need to get my hot little hands on one! someday. seriously beautiful stuff @roma042987 , hope (and am sure) they will go to a good home.
cheers
 
bear with me, i'm off to rob the bank:mad::bang:

i need to get my hot little hands on one! someday. seriously beautiful stuff @roma042987 , hope (and am sure) they will go to a good home.
cheers

Thank you. Part of me wants to keep this engine since it already has the upgraded pistons. As time and finances permit I'll rebuild the other 12ht and if finances permit again lol maybe I'll get to keep it as a spare.

Switched gears this evening. Started tearing apart my full float 60 axle.

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After a month wait I have 26 new head bolts. Apparently Toyota realized these should be a non import part here in the states after they sent me the first pack of ten and my dealer had to convince them to send the remaining 16. I hope I didn't throw up any red flags in the system and these will still be available. They are the same bolts as the 3b.

Seems to be par for the course, sadly.
 
After a month wait I have 26 new head bolts. Apparently Toyota realized these should be a non import part here in the states after they sent me the first pack of ten and my dealer had to convince them to send the remaining 16. I hope I didn't throw up any red flags in the system and these will still be available. They are the same bolts as the 3b.

They are not the same bolts. 3B head bolts are 90910-02046. I have 18 in stock and my depot has 12 in stock.

90910-02070 are NOT showing as non-import status. That said, I wouldn't be surprised if they show up like that once an order is placed.
 
They are not the same bolts. 3B head bolts are 90910-02046. I have 18 in stock and my depot has 12 in stock.

90910-02070 are NOT showing as non-import status. That said, I wouldn't be surprised if they show up like that once an order is placed.

good to know
cross referencing some numbers and looks like this is just a typo on there site albeit I still managed to get the correct bolts. Reading into the print it also says the 2h only has 18 bolts which is also incorrect.
2H and 3B Diesel Cylinder Head Bolt [90910-02046] - $9.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
 
Crosss referencing only works so much.

I want the actual part number for what I am working on. There is a reason Toyota assigns part numbers.
 
Been super busy finishing up Tucker's 40 but since I had to disassemble my axle to get his 4.10 third out of it I took the opportunity to get a little work done on it.

Here it is stripped down for the blaster.
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I decided to powder coat the hubs.

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Roma, very nice work. Fortunately my son already redid the innards on my FF, but I'll be doing the POR before I install it on my build. Curious about the additional armor. Have you had issues in the past with damaging the housing or just taking extra precautions to protect the FF since they are not as plentiful? Also, hoping you get the 60 together in time to consider the solid axel summit (CO) in August. Lastly, that's some beatiful work you've done on the 12HT long block.
 
Roma, very nice work. Fortunately my son already redid the innards on my FF, but I'll be doing the POR before I install it on my build. Curious about the additional armor. Have you had issues in the past with damaging the housing or just taking extra precautions to protect the FF since they are not as plentiful? Also, hoping you get the 60 together in time to consider the solid axel summit (CO) in August. Lastly, that's some beatiful work you've done on the 12HT long block.

thanks Jim, I haven't really had any issues but, I do think that's a weak link because the metal is so thin in those areas. On a semi float axle the cover is removal and would be easy to straighten but on the full float axle not so much. I would absolutely love to make it to Colorado. Im sure the 60 or the 40 even will be ready im just not 100% sure i'll have the time off at work just yet.
 
This is great stuff! I am in the process of cleaning up a old 60 FF rear end and these pics are super helpful. Is it advisable to replace the axle studs with new ones when redoing one of these? Did you replace the wheel studs as well?
 
This is great stuff! I am in the process of cleaning up a old 60 FF rear end and these pics are super helpful. Is it advisable to replace the axle studs with new ones when redoing one of these? Did you replace the wheel studs as well?

Thank you. I wouldn't think so unless they have been damaged at some point. Unlike the fronts which are pressed out for rotors the rears don't ever need to be removed for maintenance unless they are damaged. I replaced the axle studs because a couple of them were bent up a little from hammering them with a brass hammer to remove the cone washers.
 
Thank you. I wouldn't think so unless they have been damaged at some point. Unlike the fronts which are pressed out for rotors the rears don't ever need to be removed for maintenance unless they are damaged. I replaced the axle studs because a couple of them were bent up a little from hammering them with a brass hammer to remove the cone washers.
Got it, thanks! Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build!
 

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