Builds 1987 fj60 12h-t h55f conversion

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Figured id post an update to this thread. she is currently serving me well as a daily driver clocked 147k miles so far. Replaced the rear shoes wheel cylinders, axle seals and resurfaced the drums all toyota parts. I recharged the a/c with r12 at the beginning of the summer and its still blowing ice cold. Took care of leaking radiator last week with this unit from champion. (excellant fit and price) Desmogged it as well and its running better than ever. Link to desmog here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/767354-romas-desmog.html
Also installed a battery tray kit for the driver side from stainless trays.

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haven't updated this thread in a little while. since the last posting I did a desmog on the truck using jim c's kit along with all silicon hoses and rebuilt the intake/exhaust manifold with all new rings and spring on the exhaust horns, stainless heat deflector and gaskets and installed new studs in the manifold for the intake to bolt to. then had it machined to get a nice flat mating surface to the head. I did a write up on my desmog in here Roma's desmog.
Last week I came across a great deal on a low mileage h55f transmission along with a manual split case transfer case that came out of a 70 series rig. The trans was only a couple of hours away in Nashville so I picked it up on Saturday. Wasting no time I pulled the 60 in the shop on Monday. I decided this would be a good time to do the rear main seal as well as the oil pan gasket. I also installed a stainless hose between the trans and transfer fill plugs as a preventative measure.













new Toyota parts going in



old gasket removed and block mating surface cleaned





new rear main installed













 
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I like the case to tranny connection. I must do the same to my truck, also as a preventative measure.
 
So took it for a spin and first impression is the rpms don't seem to be any lower than with the 4 speed h42. I pulled out my phone and turned on the GPS app. Looks like the speedo is now off by 8mph at 55. I'm thinking the truck that the H55f and split case came out of had factory 4.10 or even 4.56 gears. Anyone know if I can just pull the speedo gear out of my old split case and swap them or will I need to disassemble it?
 
Great read and nice work on your rig! We have done many of the same tasks. I so wanted an H55 when I first got my truck. Now I have grow accustomed to and quite fond of my 4-speed.
Keep up the great work! I'll be watching!
 
great (fun) stuff you have been doing. It is amazing to me that I can see someone else's pics and say to myself: I know those parts

dougbert
 
So took it for a spin and first impression is the rpms don't seem to be any lower than with the 4 speed h42. I pulled out my phone and turned on the GPS app. Looks like the speedo is now off by 8mph at 55. I'm thinking the truck that the H55f and split case came out of had factory 4.10 or even 4.56 gears. Anyone know if I can just pull the speedo gear out of my old split case and swap them or will I need to disassemble it?
The larger tires have changed your ratio as well. Installing diff ring gears from an FJ62 (4.10 I think) I heard will get you back to near normal.
 
The larger tires have changed your ratio as well. Installing diff ring gears from an FJ62 (4.10 I think) I heard will get you back to near normal.
the difference in tire size is negligible im only running 31s. the 8mph difference @ 55 happened after the h55f/transfer case install. Gears are certainly not coming out I love the 3.70s in my 60! just spoke to the guy I got the trans from and looks like the truck it came out of was factory geared with 4.56s which is what I suspected.
 
ok turns out I have to swap the drive gear and the driven gear for the speedo so I ordered a new extension housing gasket, rear out put seal and rear output stake nut. I will try to do the write up on that when all the parts arrive. I'll also mention that the shifter on the h55f was extremely sloppy after the install so I ordered and replaced the cup shaped bushing that goes on the end of the shifter as well as the blue rubber spacer on top of the trans. The bushing was so worn out that I had to dig it out of the transmission. while a new one solidly snaps onto the bottom of the shifter ball and comes out with the shifter every time the shifter is removed. Now the shifter feels like a whole new trans.
 
Looks like great work, if you ever want to sell it please let me know
 
cruiser developed a slight water pump leak as soon as I finished up the h55 install and since it had a leaking front timing cover and front main seal I jumped right in on the repair. new aisin water pump Toyota front crank seal and timing cover gasket along with new Toyota hose clamps. (the radiator and heater hoses I had replaced when I did the radiator 5k or so miles ago).

I was pleasantly surprised how easily the crank pulley came off. The last 2f crank pulley I removed was on a 75 model and I had to use a puller to get it off the end of the crankshaft. When I initially tried getting my impact on the crank pulley nut on. I couldn't get it in because of the lack of clearance at the radiator support so I tried bumping the engine over with the starter while wedging the breaker bar against the frame on a block of wood. that didn't seem to work either so I gave the impact another shot and finally got it on the nut. (before, I was installing the socket then trying to put the impact on the socket as opposed to placing the socket on the nut with the socket already on the impact.. it's that tight) To my pleasant surprise once the crank pulley nut was off I was simply able to slide the crank pulley off by hand without using any kind of puller. I guess they made a revision on the later model 2fs.







rust reformer before paint










Its very important when replacing the timing cover gasket that you install the bolts finger tight only THEN install the crank pulley (which will center your timing cover and front seal) THEN tighten your timing cover bolts. If this procedure isn't followed your front crank seal will not be sealed properly. Also equally important to place all the timing cover bolts back in there respective holes. there are three different sizes on an engine with an oil cooler. 8mm, 12mm, and 16mm long bolts all in the 6mm diameter variety. (along with two 10mm diameter bolts which need to have liquid sealer applied to their threads.)













finished all this up last night and drove it home. cant say it drives any different but at least it wont be leaving a oil and coolant trail and marking its spot wherever I park. This evening I will get back under the truck and replace both output seals on the transfer along with the rear pinion seal and clutch slave. I had planned to do this when I regeared my speedo drives but had received the wrong seals from the dealer. I replaced the clutch master cylinder
with an aisin unit about a year ago. (should have done the slave at the same time :) )
 
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you may also notice I cheaped out and didn't replace my badly deteriorated belts. my reasoning for this is that the belts are relatively pricey around 30 bucks a piece and since i'll be yanking the old 2f out sometime next year when I get around to installing my 12ht I figured Id save the money for new belts for the 12ht. BUT as I was ordering a new a/c condenser for the rig on rock auto (denso unit for 126 bucks) I decided to check their belt selection. I was pleasantly surprised 3 bucks a piece for the p/s steering/alternator belt and water/smog pump belt and the a/c belt was only 2.20! so less that 10 bucks for all three belts! The belts are the websites economy line but are actually dayco belts which I have had good luck with in the past. So when they arrive next week i'll be throwing those puppies on as well.
 
Nice work! Rock auto does have some deals.

thanks! and yes they do I think the key is to know exactly what your looking for as far as brand.

ok the truck I got the h55 and split case out of had factory installed 4.56 gears so a regear of the speedo drive was in order for my speedometer to read properly. The drive gear and driven gear needed to be replaced. I got the parts from Toyota of course and the driven gear (plastic one) even came with a new oring for the speedo gear head. I replaced the tailshaft extension housing gasket as well. I will add that if you remove your rear out put shaft seal you can probably leave that rear extension housing in place while removing the speedo drive gear.




the two gears side by side













here are my parts for the transfer and rear pinion reseal. I used a marlin eco seal on the rear pinion.





Installing the new rear out put shaft seal. The old seal makes an excellent seal driver.



new seal in


torqued to 94lbs. and staked with a new nut





Old leaky rear pinion seal then new marlin rear seal installed. now might be a good idea to mention that the late fj60s have a crush sleeve inside the front and rear differentials while early model cruisers had a solid pinion spacer. To PROPERLY replace the rear pinion seal on a differential with a crush sleeve the outer pinion bearing must be removed and the crush sleeve must be replaced. I did not replace my crush sleeve. I did however mark the exact location of the pinion nut prior to removal and reinstalled it in the exact same location as it was in before. It is my opinion that this is not preferred but sufficient. If your doing this on the ground where your wheels are not able to roll you could actually count the turns when removing the pinion nut and then put it back on in the same location. since I was using a lift I measured the depth of the pinion shaft on the nut as well as marked the location then used an impact to remove and reinstall.





 
source of another leak i found when I installed the h55f and its replacement. the clutch fork boot had become saturated in brake fluid which caused it to swell to nearly twice its original size. comparison with its replacement







New aisin master I installed last year.


Had to get my comechanic/photographer to help me bleed my clutch she wasn't enthused about being raise up on the rack :)






front output replacement







also 94ftlbs on the front out put shaft






 
Dude I cannot thank you enough for throwing those pics up of the leaking slave!! I was under my truck the other weekend and noticed that my clutch boot was sticking out but when I went to push it back in it was just floppy and nasty. It looks EXACTLY like yours does, so that means I have found the possible source of another leak and something else I need to replace. Not exactly sure that is what is leaking as I am not losing any clutch fluid that I am noticing nor am I have issues (other than the occasional time where the clutch doesn't engage when I am sitting and have to pump the clutch once or twice).

Take it that the clutch slave and boot are both OEM? Part Numbers if you don't mind.
 
if your clutch boot is swollen then id say pretty safe bet the clutch slave is leaking. the boot part number is 31126-60021 my price was $16.68. the clutch slave I had laying around it actually came with the h55f/splitcase I purchased and looked brand new. that clutch slave leak actually covered the whole lower bell housing dust cover and didn't start leaking (or at least I didn't notice it) until I installed the h55f. (had to remove it when I did the rear main and which extends the push rod to the max and then compresses it again when its reinstalled). When I first saw it I momentarily thought that I had improperly installed my rear main seal (which is not very uncommon but would have been a first for me) :)
 

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