1987 4Runner TPS help PLEASE!! (1 Viewer)

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I am about to pull my hair out. Or set this thing on fire. It’s a nice truck. Great truck, but damn.

I bought the truck and trying to sort some issues. Also replacing parts with oem parts to help. It’s all started with injectors. They were shot. I pulled the intake and had them rebuilt. Truck ran great.

Then I had a high RPM and weird idle. So, great time ( or so I thought) to replace the generic TPS sensor to a denso/toyota. Well what I have learned is I don’t know crap about ohm’s and multi meters 🤣. I have taken the TB off and on three times to set ( or try) the resistance via the fsm. I think I finally got it right, and the truck idles and runs good, but now I have a check engine light. 7,4,11. It’s points to a bad TPS, it’s brand new ( maybe it’s bad) it also smells rich.

What can I do now? Do I need to take it back off an re-adjust the TPS? Or could that TPS be bad? When I stick a apart clip in the dish port the idle drops ( I think that means the TPS is “working” I just want the codes gone and my truck back 😭

Any ideas on where to start? Or how to finish? Thank you for any help!
 
so first off make sure the tps is actually getting actuated by the tb. apparently there are some clocking variations.

Secondly, and idk why this isn't gospel by now since i feel like ive typed it 100 times.....
set the tps by the idle switch. period. resistance is irrelevant. after you have set the switch, check the actual voltage sweep.

with the tps unplugged and key on, pin 1 should be 5v, pin 3 should be 12v, 4 is ground and 2 is your signal sweep should be over .5v at closed and sweep to under 4.5v at wot

12 w is pin 1
11 w is pin 2

Screenshot_20250215-155104_Drive.jpg


Screenshot_20250215-155317_Drive.jpg


Screenshot_20250215-155536_Drive.jpg
 
How do I verify the clocking? Like I said I might be in over my head. Not going to lie

When you say idle switch can you show me? I have so many variations and abbreviations I am confused now. Just being honest. M

Then when I unplug are you stating ti check the connector from the ecu? Correct?

I really appreciate you taking the time to help me on this. Truly. Sorry that I might need to dumb this down.

Thank you.
 
take the tps off.
look at the tangs on the tb, are they in the same spot as the tps?

when you set the idle switch (the lower two pins) you are unplugged. you should show continuity when the throttle is closed. the signal should go open just as you crack the blade.

for open voltage testing. check unplugged key on.
for sweep it needs to be plugged in. you can pull the boot back on the connection for access
 
I have taken the TB off the car for the adjustment. I’ll need to put it back on and remove the thermostat housing and such to double check once I put the TB back on. I’ll remove the the TPS and verify. I assume the tangs are the brass pieces covered by the TPS?

I guess that is my issue I don’t know how to set the idle switch. Might have gone above my head for sure on this one. Electronics aren’t my thing. Should have known better.

I wish you lived in Atlanta I’d pay you 🤦🤦🤣



Your patience is awesome and please know this is my first go around with the 1st gen 4Runner. So I am learning. Don’t know how, but I’ll make it up to you some how for your help. Genuinely appreciate your help.
 
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I have removed the TB for the adjustment. I’ll need to put it back on and remove the thermostat housing. Once I do that I’ll see. I assume the tangs are the brass pieces that are covered by the TPS?
if it's off the car now, do yourself a favor and replace the screws with socketheads. then it can be adjusted on the car without the hassle
 
take the tps off.
look at the tangs on the tb, are they in the same spot as the tps?

There are two TB flavors (early and late). One has a vertical pawl, the other horizontal. The TPS need to match. I don't recall which is which.
 
See the two hooked tabs? One type is like this one and on the other, the tabs are 90 degrees to this one. The outside looks the same otherwise. You have to make sure the tabs will match whatever you have on your throttle body.

And like gnob mentioned, go to the hardware store and get some socket head bolts (allen head or torx) to replace the OEM screws. You can adjust or replace it without pulling other parts off.
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Then mine match my throttle body. To install it I had the connector point down and rotated 90 degrees to the forward position
 
Ok. I am about to put the throttle body back on Thursday. Anyone in Atlanta that wants to make a few bucks? Or maybe FaceTime with me to help get this crap finished. I need to get this thing running and still unsure with the directions. But. Iam gonna try.
 
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I just Googled "How to adjust 22RE TPS Youtube" and several popped up. It's been a while since I had a 22RE but I think I replaced and adjusted it on the bench the last time I did it. Definitely easier than on the engine. The Allen head mounting screws are definitely worth getting. Good luck with your truck.
 
I just Googled "How to adjust 22RE TPS Youtube" and several popped up. It's been a while since I had a 22RE but I think I replaced and adjusted it on the bench the last time I did it. Definitely easier than on the engine. The Allen head mounting screws are definitely worth getting. Good luck with your truck.
Done it all. Doesn’t work. I have followed every you tube video I can. Can’t get it in spec.
 
I can only remember fighting one TPS and it was a cheap aftermarket one my kid bought. I ended up putting a used OEM one in and it set up easily. Sorry you're having to fight this.
Yep mine is OEM. I’ll return it and see if it’s bad. No idea.
 
I am about to pull my hair out. Or set this thing on fire. It’s a nice truck. Great truck, but damn.

I bought the truck and trying to sort some issues. Also replacing parts with oem parts to help. It’s all started with injectors. They were shot. I pulled the intake and had them rebuilt. Truck ran great.

Then I had a high RPM and weird idle. So, great time ( or so I thought) to replace the generic TPS sensor to a denso/toyota. Well what I have learned is I don’t know crap about ohm’s and multi meters 🤣. I have taken the TB off and on three times to set ( or try) the resistance via the fsm. I think I finally got it right, and the truck idles and runs good, but now I have a check engine light. 7,4,11. It’s points to a bad TPS, it’s brand new ( maybe it’s bad) it also smells rich.

What can I do now? Do I need to take it back off an re-adjust the TPS? Or could that TPS be bad? When I stick a apart clip in the dish port the idle drops ( I think that means the TPS is “working” I just want the codes gone and my truck back 😭

Any ideas on where to start? Or how to finish? Thank you for any help!


i have been spaced out on all the details in the FSM getting the right contacts to the right DIGI Meter and the right thickness ,


i pull the whole throttle body too


i have more then once on my life caught myself starting at the throttle stop screws and some where along the way my feeler guages wind up under the dash-pot contact points .....


this has gone back and forth before i know until i have to walk away and go the fridge for another cold beer and re-approach


once i have caught myself and realized its super eazy peezy to slide next door to the dash pot ?

well .....


im here confessing now and coming klean , so others will suffer my same moment of feeling certain doom .........😆


i now look at the feeler gauges each time i go for a official check step my step , and yes i have caught myself back at that F'ing Dash Pot stops



.


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