1986 FJ45 Wiring Harness Search (US)

[ceylonfj40nut]

Call Dan. He has some good bits stashed.

Dan Kublik

4 Wheel Auto

8807 63 Ave NW.

Edmonton, AB

Canada, T6E-0E9

(780) 468-2570

Toll Free (866) 468-2570

Website: http://www.4wheelauto.com

 

[Engineer8000]

I have done some harness work in my shop. Pull it and send it to CruiserMatt.

 

[ttebroc22]

Thanks again. My 16 year old son came over for a few hours today to start mapping out the existing harness as he took the initiative to remove it. I acted as label maker and assistant. I think we got a good start. My son seems to think we can have a new one finished in a week. I’m guessing a bit longer. I like his optimism though.

 

[Malleus]

Looks like an art project to me...

Seriously, definitely doable. Wire quality is the determining factor on whether your investment in time and effort was worth it in the end. I'm still looking for a US source (or any other, frankly) for genuine Sumitomo wire.

 

[OGBeno]

Ouch. That looks rough.

IMO, support the young lad and let him do him.

Do you have a wiring diagram for correctly identifying reality vs. what you have?

Have fun with it.

 

[cruisermatt]

We have all the correct color stripe wire here in TXL along with pretty much any connectors, terminals, etc you would need. Happy to send up supplies. Even if you don't buy it from me, make sure you use TXL wire. Wire you would get at any local auto parts or electrical supplier is garbage.

 

[cruisermatt]

Looks like an art project to me...

Seriously, definitely doable. Wire quality is the determining factor on whether your investment in time and effort was worth it in the end. I'm still looking for a US source (or any other, frankly) for genuine Sumitomo wire.

No need to keep searching.

 

[Coolerman]

Glad to see some responses from folks that have actually worked on repairing harnesses. Your responces reflect WHY I got out of doing this work. No one is willing to pay shop rates for 30-40 hours of actual work for "a simple harness".
I was selling harnesses at near my cost just because I loved being able to put a smile on someones face when they opened the box. I am now less than two years from retirement and my full time day job is just eating up too much of my time.

Now that said, I have worked on WAY worse harnesses than what I see there. That harness can be easily repaired!
Some suggestions...
1. Use something like Simple Green, 409, or Krud Cutter to clean the harness BEFORE you start work so you can easily see the wire colors. Acetone will also remove the really bad stuff (and some paint overspray) but be careful with that as it will melt a lot of plastics.
2. Once you have it clean, start on the drivers side and make a list of everything you need to repair/replace. Do not skip this step as it is so easy to forget something you spotted when working on it. Keep that list handy so you can refer and add to it as you work on it. Order your parts and wire based on that list.
3. Work on ONE circuit at a time!!! Due to Toyota using similiar wire colors it is so easy to get confused when tracing and repairing wires. The schematic and a good multi-meter is your friend.
4. When replacing a section of wire inside the harness, use splice crimps to splice in the repair section. These are what Toyota used to make splices. Slide heat shrink onto the repair section before crimping.
5. When replaing a section of wire that comes out of the harness, make the splice INSIDE the harness so it is not visible.
6. Find out if the firewall grommets are availabel for your truck, and if so buy them. You can put them on the harness while you have it apart. Otherwise you will have to cut them to install them after the fact.
7. Make sure you get a good set of open barrel crimpers for crimping the terminals onto your wires. Try ToyotaMatt at VintageTEQ.com
8. Anything that is made of brass (terminals, fuse block clips) or copper (like old corroded wire you are trying to solder or crimp a terminal on) can be easily restored to almost new by soaking them in white vinegar with some salt added for a few minutes. RINSE WELL to remove this concoction!
9. Replace all the fuses with new. Don't think about it, just do it! I have wasted a lot of time because a fuse "looked" good. Use marine fuses made with stainless steel end caps.
10. Switches: Most of your switches are probably good. If however they are not good when you start testing don't panic thinking you need new ones. These switches are well built and will just need taken apart, contacts cleaned, and regreased. Search for switch cleaning on here to see what to do.
11. Once you have the repairs done, but BEFORE you tape it back up, test EVERY circuit with the switches plugged in and the lights plugged in. This one I cannot stress enough! You can rig up some test lights with some old bulbs, some wire and some terminals. Just move them to the plug you need to check.
12. Grounds: When testing YOU MUST HAVE THE GROUND WIRES GROUNDED TO THE BATTERY NEGATIVE. Most harnesses have more than one ground. The ground wire color on all FJ series trucks is White/Black. For testing you can jumper them together.
13. Fusible link: DO NOT test without the fusible link(s) or some other fuse between the battery and the harness! One slip and you can melt all your hard work. Because I "slipped" on a customers harness, I had to rebuild the charge circuit on their harness. Due to that I came up with a temparary fusible link that uses a fast blow fuse instead of a slow blow link. It plugs into the same place the fusible link does. You can also just put an inline 15 amp fuse between the battery + and the fusible link to protect all circuits as you test. Just test one thing at a time.
14. Taping it back up. You have three choices: Use electrical tape ( not a good choice as it will make a sticky mess when subjected to under hood heat), use Tesa tape, the kind used on modern vehicles, but still an adhesive based tape or use non-adhesive harness tape that sticks to itself, but not the wires. I use the non-adhesive harness tape on all my harness work. A full harness will take about 3 rolls depending on their length.

Hope that helps you with this project. That is one beautiful FJ45!

 

[Coolerman]

I use GXL for 18-14ga and SXL wire for 12-10ga. Bit thicker coating but slightly less flexible.
If you want Sumitomo wire, you will have to order it from Japan.

 

[OGBeno]

Boom.

Wizard has spoken.

 

[Malleus]

No need to keep searching.

View attachment 3855931

I really need to talk to you...

 

[Malleus]

I thought long and hard about using GXL and SXL when I was rebuilding my engine harness, and decided against it. All I could find was non-pretroleum (plant based) insulation and I didn't want to send out invitations to the rodent crowd. Hence my comment about Sumitomo; they still make both oil based insulated wire and the worthless "ECO-friendly" crap that the rats love to chew on.

I have a source in the land of the rising sun, I just wish someone here would stock it so I could by it in lengths less than a mile.

 

[cruisermatt]

I have a source in the land of the rising sun, I just wish someone here would stock it so I could by it in lengths less than a mile.

Um.. I just commented that we stock it here.

 

[Malleus]

Poor typing skills; I should have said "wished".

I wasn't ignoring you, Matt. I need to talk to you (next week).

 

[OGBeno]

So when you guys are done jerking each other off selling wires, let’s get back to the fact that constructing a harness is difficult work.

It takes time and energy.

It is not an easy task.

Especially for people whom are new to the game.

Sit the fūck back.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Well…
Thanks so much for the feedback. This may explain why looking for 1986-ish anything has proven so difficult. I’m attaching some pictures as requested and look forward to any further responses.

View attachment 3852132View attachment 3852131View attachment 3852133View attachment 3852134
View attachment 3852130

Hello ,

very very nice example of late model FJ45LP-K3

.

- it's classification code that is more then worthy of a Super-Unicorn
.

- Your truck is a former United Nations owned and purchased new by them originally , the specialized heavy-duty cargo capacity bed i have only ever seen on a late model FJ45 P/U and the HJ45 P/U as well ......

.
- The IV in your model ID code refers to a ( incomplete vehicle chassis and cab ) this outlines why you have a such of a beast of a cargo-grade bed that would have transported a giant fresh water tank , and building blocks for new settlement projects like the UN did for developing countries and regions in the mid-late 1980's well into the 1990's

.
- do you know when it was decommissioned by the UN , and transferred to private ownership ?

.
- Below is your factory build sheet build spec's , it would not be and was not unusual for TOYOTA to have had this specialized truck sitting and staged ready after its actual production date it rolled down the ramp of PLANT A11 as part of the long term contract TOYOTA had agreed to fulfill that had the HJ47 having a final production date of 10/85 ....

.
- it's logical to conclude until the UN officially took possession of it and registered it , that time window would have been 10/85- or later into 1986 ...

- i have crossed paths with only 2 of a similar / same in kind Engine Bay data ID plate like you have going on , but do not recall ever seeing the coding i marked in the red ink ?

.


- i have also not seen your very original and clearly factory installed ARAKAWA auto body badge in any 40 series engine bay before ? but its refreshing to see it placed there are not hiding in the shadows under the passenger side kick panel like they were affixed for some silly reason from 1975 - 1984 ...


matt ....


.

.

 

[V8FJ4078]

So when you guys are done jerking each other off selling wires, let’s get back to the fact that constructing a harness is difficult work.

It takes time and energy.

It is not an easy task.

Especially for people whom are new to the game.

Sit the fūck back.

Definitely not the easiest thing I did in my rebuild, but certainly worth it for being able to troubleshoot things in the future since I documented everything including the added circuits I needed for my fuel injection, AC, and heated seats and transfer pump (one tank to another). I would do it again! Everything Coolerman shared is important to the success! Lots of great sources here for everything you need!!

 

[tex45]

Very cool late model for sure but I am curious what about the bed points to UN ownership?

This looks like a typical South American 45 bed that you see for sale on any SA import.

Are all SA import 45s with this bed “UN spec”?

If so maybe that’s why these SA imports reportedly have so many issues!

 

[stewt]

Hello ,

very very nice example of late model FJ45LP-K3

.

- it's classification code that is more then worthy of a Super-Unicorn
.

- Your truck is a former United Nations owned and purchased new by them originally , the specialized heavy-duty cargo capacity bed i have only ever seen on a late model FJ45 P/U and the HJ45 P/U as well ......

.
- The IV in your model ID code refers to a ( incomplete vehicle chassis and cab ) this outlines why you have a such of a beast of a cargo-grade bed that would have transported a giant fresh water tank , and building blocks for new settlement projects like the UN did for developing countries and regions in the mid-late 1980's well into the 1990's

.
- do you know when it was decommissioned by the UN , and transferred to private ownership ?

.
- Below is your factory build sheet build spec's , it would not be and was not unusual for TOYOTA to have had this specialized truck sitting and staged ready after its actual production date it rolled down the ramp of PLANT A11 as part of the long term contract TOYOTA had agreed to fulfill that had the HJ47 having a final production date of 10/85 ....

.
- it's logical to conclude until the UN officially took possession of it and registered it , that time window would have been 10/85- or later into 1986 ...

- i have crossed paths with only 2 of a similar / same in kind Engine Bay data ID plate like you have going on , but do not recall ever seeing the coding i marked in the red ink ?

.


- i have also not seen your very original and clearly factory installed ARAKAWA auto body badge in any 40 series engine bay before ? but its refreshing to see it placed there are not hiding in the shadows under the passenger side kick panel like they were affixed for some silly reason from 1975 - 1984 ...


matt ....


.


View attachment 3856358

.
View attachment 3856359

This was very insightful, thank you. Would that narrow down the year range of when it was assembled?

 

[Terrax]

It's amazing that you can still buy a brand new Toyota wiring harness (at least for a 1979-1980 FJ45). I bit the bullet and bought one.