1985 BJ70 Major Starter Confusion

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Joined
Dec 9, 2009
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Hi All, and thank you in advance for your help and expertise! I'm not a complete noob, but by no means an experienced mechanic, so I appreciate it.

I have been coping with a bad starter for a long time. It is intermittent at best, starts maybe 40% of the time. The rest of the time it just goes click like its trying really hard, and then a softer click like it gave up. I'm pretty sure its the starter. new batteries didn't solve the problem.

I've tried to read through as many threads as I can but alas I can't come up with a clear answer so I have to ask: what can I do to repair or replace a 12 volt starter on a 1985 BJ70? The starter currently on there has one part number S8338. I found this thread that has a list of Dixie part numbers showing the particular part I have and the model I need as a 12V, 2.4kW.

I can find lots of 24 volt starters, and lots of Toyota forklift starters on ebay such as this one which looks like it could work (see kW and V and teeth), but I can't find anything that will confirm for me the forklift ones will work, or the 24 volt ones will work (my guess is they won't). I've also read thoroughly about the possibility of trying to replace the brushes myself. I'm game, but I really want to make sure I order the correct parts.

Is there any clear source for part numbers or parts that would fit this unusual model?

Looking to save myself a couple hundred dollars and the shame of saying screw it and paying someone smarter to solve this. Thanks again everyone.
 
Have you considered taking the starter to a rebuild shop? Are you planning on keeping the truck? (i.e., you want more that a bandage so you can sell it)

A thought for consideration ... I have always found shops that specialize in alternators & starter repairs/rebuilds have all the expertise and parts to rebuild my Toyota starters (12 or 24 volt). I have developed more faith in the quality of work from these shops than a pig-in-a-poke (rebuilt unit at an auto parts store, pull from a junk yard, ...). Plus with a quality local shop, they stand behind there work and are local.
 
Hi Larry,

Yeah I probably should sell it, but I'm stubborn and I love it. So does the boss, but she can't drive it if it has to be push started every trip, so I definitely want a proper fix. I'm leaning towards the rebuild, but if I can do it myself I would value the learning experience as much as the money saved. Almost. :p
 
simple, take it to a starter/alternator shop and have them test it.
if it needs rebuilding then get it done.
nothing worse than bragging you got it done and leaving the old lady stranded somewhere. not that it is a big job but sometimes shelling out a couple bills is peace of mind.
 
Sounds similar to a recent issue of mine, intermittent starting or failing to start after successive starts. Turns out it was a problem with the contacts. Had mine rebuilt with the contacts filed/re-aligned and no problems since.

Def get the factory unit repaired rather than a cheapo replacement. The factory one is very good quality.
 
I have had four lc diesel starters rebuilt in Tucson, Arizona for under $75 each. Just rebuild it. As a side note, it does take the hands of Houdini to take the starter out. It does come out in one piece in a 3b/13bt 70 series but is a pain in the arse.
 
Sorry to hijack the thread, I don't have any prioblems with the starter but the solenoid mounted up near the battery clicks at idle was pointed out by the mechanic when my head was replaced, I spoke to an auto electrician about new soledoids and he said it would be a fault in the starter it self. HE didn;t really look at it just wanted me to give him the starter motor to test.
 
Thanks for the advice, the consensus from the gurus seems to be have it tested and/or rebuilt in a shop. Sounds good. Can anyone recommend a quality shop for this in Vancouver, BC?
 
OK, holy cow. I don't know how you say you can get this thing out in 20 minutes. I have been at it for 2 hours and managed to turn it around and around and get it stuck and unstuck and restuck. Transmission, frame, oil pan, everything is in the way! How do I get this out?!

Any tips would be appreciated.

EDIT: I found this thread (I knew I'd read something about this at some point whilst confusing myself over 12V and 24V starter threads). Starter is out. Phew.
 
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It easy, remove brace between gearbox and block, remove starter bolts, for the top one use a 1m extension so you can reach to from behind the transfer case. Remove wiring and twist to drop down between the block and chassis rail pinion first.
 
After un bolting the starter rotate it in position so that the motor is at the top. Then drop the front end down between the frame and engine. Then twist it as the gear reduction portion drops down and it will come right out.

Hope that helps. Once you find the sweet spot theirs nothing to it
 
Worst christmas present ever

Hi All,

So I managed to get the starter out. I took everyone's advice and took it to a rebuild shop. The guy there tested it... starter is fine. He opened it up, checked brushes, solonoid, plunger, everything looks fine, almost new. He thought it might be corroded contacts. So I brought the starter home, reinstalled it, cleaned up the contacts and grounds, started her up and it started fine....the first time and the second time only. And then it was back to <turns key> click from engine....(pause)...click from what sounds like the glovebox area on the right side of the truck. That is all it does. I took a multimeter to the batteries, each read 12.67 V. Is it possible its my batteries? I replaced them just a year ago, so if that is too low to deliver what the starter needs, then maybe my alternator isn't working? And if that is the case, why would it seem to work sometimes and not others (like two starts today and then no more)? All this time that I've been roll-starting it I've only needed a few inches of roll, then I pop the clutch and turn the key and it starts. Any good advice or threads you can lead me to will be greatly appreciated.
 
starter relay acting up?
dirty contacts at the relay?
dirty contacts at the battery?
 
When I first encountered this problem I thought it might be the starter relay. I borrowed one from a shop, swapped it in for mine and that didn't fix the problem so I put mine back in. I will check the contacts on the relay tonight. Battery contacts were all cleaned up last night.

Is there any credence to the theory my batteries are just not able to handle the load? Would that indicate a bad alternator?

Why would it turn over sometimes and other times just go to that click? :bang:
 
just cause you switched out a piece doesn't mean the replacement wasn't faulty as well ...
BTDT and very frustrating.
if your batteries are above 11 then you should be able to crank.
of course you might have a battery that has 12.4V but has a bad cell, if so then when loaded up the battery will not do it's job and ... click
load test the batteries ... load testers are cheap at the local parts place.
 
Thanks, I will try to get the batteries load tested tomorrow I guess. Do you know of a good thread or resource that would walk me through a diagnostic to figure out which point in the system is failing?

More details: I hooked up the multimeter to my battery while the engine was off, in the start position, while turning key but engine is not starting, and running (had to roll start it). 12.7V while off; 12.3V while in start position; 11.83V with key turned (click); and 13.85V while running. That last one indicates to me that the alternator is working. So maybe its just a load problem (and I'm going to try and test for that tomorrow). But here's the thing, I went for a nearly 6 hour ride two weekends ago. Next morning, wouldn't start. If the alternator is working, the battery should stay charged long enough to get to the next day right? Could something be drawing load while the vehicle is off? And again, why on earth would it then start sometimes after it has sat for a while, and then not later on after it has driven for a while??

So frustrated.
 
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