Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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@Mudder, since you are now in the PDX area, come hang out with Cascade Cruisers at a Meet-N-Greet or event. We do work parties all of the time and there is always someone available to spin wrenches. Cascade Cruiser Facebook Page
I appreciate the heads up! I didn’t even check for a local group in the area I’ll have to swing by when it aligns with a day off or look at the up coming events to see if I can register and go to one!
 
One thing I needed to do was fix any leaks I’ve got a we’re not allowed the park in certain areas of our vehicles leak, with this in mind I found a late 90s IFS box and sent it to Red Head Steering fto be overhaul plus drill and tap to replace my leaky one. Shipped it there and got it back in less than a week. I’ve had good luck with them on other vehicles and it felt better than supporting Trail-Gear.
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What was the ballpark on this if you don’t mind me asking? Mine is in pretty sorry shape and should probably be rebuilt/replaced before I get the truck back on the road.
 
What was the ballpark on this if you don’t mind me asking? Mine is in pretty sorry shape and should probably be rebuilt/replaced before I get the truck back on the road.
Total including shipping there was $633.

$50 to ship the box there through UPS
$415 for the rebuild
$1 hazmat disposal
$110 to port the box (I did this because of you adjust the adjusting nut it voids the warranty and lack of shop space)
$26 for a new pitman nut and lock washer (they claim OEM Toyota)
$31 return shipping

However it steers the best this truck ever has. The steering is smooth, the slop is gone and my leaks are gone.
 
That’s surprisingly reasonable all things considered, TG wants $700 right now for their new box. I’d rather support an actual business instead of TG plus properly rebuilt OEM is probably better anyhow.
 
I couldn’t find much on the TG box besides people saying it was a leaky POS. I also didn’t like that the install instructions are how to adjust free play if it’s greater than the allowed spec for the year of vehicle. At $700 I want a box that requires no adjusting after I install it. Plus it has a stupid name imo, “power flow” is that because it’s ported or did they do something else?
 
A friend of mine bought a TG box and it was locked up AND leaky. I won't get into the back and forth between him and TG. Long story short is that it must be his fault. I was there when he pulled it apart and it had a bunch of metal shavings inside like it was ported while assembled.
 
That’s fascinating because they advertise them as “brand new” steering boxes…all the more reason to stay away from that product I guess.
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Finally almost 10 years after buying a dual case adapter I’m actually building them. However, when replacing the bearings with the new ones from AA the new output shaft bearing has a dust seal on it while the old ones didn’t.

Is there an TSB for the bearings to have them and it’s done on later models or does it not matter? It’s the correct part number it is the correct part number.

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Also, when reassembling with the gaskets are people using RTV as well as the gasket for a better seal?
 
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Finally almost 10 years after buying a dual case adapter I’m actually building them. However, when replacing the bearings with the new ones from AA the new output shaft bearing has a dust seal on it while the old ones didn’t.

Is there an TSB for the bearings to have them and it’s done on later models or does it not matter? It’s the correct part number it is the correct part number.

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Also, when reassembling with the gaskets are people using RTV as well as the gasket for a better seal?
don't know the answers to those questions but zippo from marlins forum made a pretty good case build guide http://oppiz.net/pics/Tcase Build/Toy Transfercase Build.html
 
My AA TX2 adapter had seals on both sides of the bearings. They just had a number and China, no brand. I put Nachi bearings in with the same number and they were also sealed on both sides.
 
Duals are officially built. I did cheat and use the trail gear top shift conversion kits. They’re a bit spendy but it converted both of my cases to top shift and they’re pre clearances for 4.7 gears. It was also cheaper to buy a forward shift case and convert it. The write up @liveoak was a great resources as well as Trail Gears instructions for dual case assembly. Marlins are so out of date and the photos are too small for me to see it clearly on a phone.

I did upgrade the HD shift spring and they are a nice upgrade and stiffer than I expected them to be. It caught me off guard when I went to shift through the gears for the first time and moved the transfer cases. Everything shifts smoothly and the RAD triple sticks as badass and 100% worth it. I’m planing on running the V6 Toyota transfer case mounts instead of the solid mounts to cut down on vibrations.

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Looks good! I thought you had asked about the AA adapter. That Marlin MC08 is NICE.
I’ve had it since 2016 waiting to build a set of dual cases. I remember buying it for $550 on Black Friday and thinking it was expensive back then!

@gnob for both front and rear cases or just for one of them? I currently have a Marlin HD mount installed in the truck.
 
I’ve had it since 2016 waiting to build a set of dual cases. I remember buying it for $550 on Black Friday and thinking it was expensive back then!

@gnob for both front and rear cases or just for one of them? I currently have a Marlin HD mount installed in the truck.
yes i use two.
 
yes i use two.
I thought I remembered long ago reading about people running a stock trans mount behind one of the 4x mounts to reduce vibrations. Do you think that actually helps or is it negligible? I don’t have a set idea for it as I do want strength but also them to not tear in double low.
 
Those one's @gnob referenced look like a good deal.

I had two OEM and then two aftermarket OEM style. They both flexed over too much and eventually tore.

I got a Marlin one for free from a friend and then I fabricated a similar one to add to the other case. It's definitely louder with these mounts but no more shifter movement or tearing out.

I also use a cable or chain to limit my engine torquing over. (Driver side) On my 22RE I put the bolt through the engine mount as per Marlin.

It sucks when you're in double low on a steep climb and you can feel your T-case thumping the floor and see your shifters moving like crazy.
 
I thought I remembered long ago reading about people running a stock trans mount behind one of the 4x mounts to reduce vibrations. Do you think that actually helps or is it negligible? I don’t have a set idea for it as I do want strength but also them to not tear in double low.
it made negligible difference imo. Great upgrade, especially for significantly less than oe.

and ftr the mount listed as v6 on marlins site is for later 4cy. (89+). a v6 mount is completely different and simply won't work on 4cyl cases
 

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