Last week I finished what I thought was everything I needed to drive and enjoy my 60. I have replaced entire cooling system, new power steering pump, new motor mount on drivers side, drilled and tapped oil galley plug, solved all vacuum and exhaust leaks and replaced all vacuum lines( I’am de-smogged). Also upgrade alternator to 80 amp from a 62. ( all this over 1 1/2 years, my 60 has started everytime I went to drive it and has slowly ran better and better. Two days after finishing all this the cruiser gods threw me a curve ball.
A cracked cylinder head. Maybe the 60 liked all the vacuum and exhaust leaks better
That bubble of coolant starts at nothing than grows as truck warms up then actually seals itself once at full operating temp.
I have decided to go the way of purchasing a fully refurbished cylinder head from SOR. My question revolves around if I am missing anything in my process.
1. Order and collect all items -replacement cylinder head, OEM head gasket, remflex exhaust/intake gasket, OEM lower thermostat housing gasket( just replaced upper with new thermostat so not pulling apart) , exhaust donut gasket. Am I missing anything??
2. Disassemble to pull cracked head( luckily when I replaced exhaust gasket 3 months ago went with all new hardware so shouldn’t run into issues there
also since I did desmog I know where all the vacuum lines go, but will still label to be safe.
3. Once cracked head is removed clean, clean, clean block surface. I am getting an engineers level off Amazon to check block surface. Clean head bolt wholes really well and Chase threads as needed have m13 X 1.75 .
4. Reassemble going to use engine hoist to place new head. Place headbolts in hand tight then torque in three sets 30, 60, 90 following pattern from FSM. Lightly oil head bolt threads and apply anti seize. Then add everything back on in reverse torquing all bolts per FSM. Then when all back together burp cooling system get truck to operating temp. then check torque head bolts on more time.
What am I missing ??? What should I look for or check when head is off??
I have read every thread on here I could find. Have downloaded FSM. Trying to be prepared but will be my first time. I will move slow and methodically when doing this.
A cracked cylinder head. Maybe the 60 liked all the vacuum and exhaust leaks better
That bubble of coolant starts at nothing than grows as truck warms up then actually seals itself once at full operating temp.
I have decided to go the way of purchasing a fully refurbished cylinder head from SOR. My question revolves around if I am missing anything in my process.
1. Order and collect all items -replacement cylinder head, OEM head gasket, remflex exhaust/intake gasket, OEM lower thermostat housing gasket( just replaced upper with new thermostat so not pulling apart) , exhaust donut gasket. Am I missing anything??
2. Disassemble to pull cracked head( luckily when I replaced exhaust gasket 3 months ago went with all new hardware so shouldn’t run into issues there
also since I did desmog I know where all the vacuum lines go, but will still label to be safe. 3. Once cracked head is removed clean, clean, clean block surface. I am getting an engineers level off Amazon to check block surface. Clean head bolt wholes really well and Chase threads as needed have m13 X 1.75 .
4. Reassemble going to use engine hoist to place new head. Place headbolts in hand tight then torque in three sets 30, 60, 90 following pattern from FSM. Lightly oil head bolt threads and apply anti seize. Then add everything back on in reverse torquing all bolts per FSM. Then when all back together burp cooling system get truck to operating temp. then check torque head bolts on more time.
What am I missing ??? What should I look for or check when head is off??
I have read every thread on here I could find. Have downloaded FSM. Trying to be prepared but will be my first time. I will move slow and methodically when doing this.
