1983 BJ42 buildup/ resto

[ThePookieBear]

Wow... at the risk of sounding somewhat like a Nancy... that is pretty.... . Ha ha, seriously though, that is awesome.

 

[Diesel42]

That is a first class job Rob for sure. You certainly leave no details to spare. Go with Wesintl on the oil port location. Also, i believe the engineer at Garrett said the center section of that turbo should be with 15 degrees of vertical(which is pretty close to straight up and down). This was reiterated to me by them. The new complete kit that Breckenridgecruiser and i are offering has a drain flange with elbow that allows for this vertical clocking. Let me know if you need help. And i must repeat, gorgeous job.

 

[Roberto]

Thanks Diesel42, your adapter plate is top notch, and I recieved my beautiful Diesel Grille badge as well, well done. Can you please send me a pic of this elbow for I would really be interested in purchasing? Because I am as far as I can go, for my drain tube is now against the adapter plate/ manifold as far as it can go?

Thanks
R
robert.l.curtis@us.army.mil

 

[FJn00b]

here they go, is the drain ok at this degree or do I need more? I cant really go more down, and if I rotate turbo to face other side more horizontal then my drain will be directly horizontal as well, would that be ok to hav eit horizontal and then radius it downwards into oil pan? We are drilling hole tomorrow in pan and then have welded.

This is one I hate about Toyota manifold is that turbo will stay too close to hood.

Also, running a long plastic tube for hot oil out of turbo is a bad idea.

 

[nate dogg]

Also, running a long plastic tube for hot oil out of turbo is a bad idea.[/QUOTE]

That's a silicone hose. I used them when I worked on gas compressors and they lasted over 10,000 hrs in extreme conditions. I have one for my drain. I hope your bung in your pan doesn't seem like mine did.

 

[Roberto]

This guy did a great job brazing it, and I beleive the drain tube is designed for turbo? It came with my turbo oil line kit so it should be fine and handle the temps? we will see.

R

 

[Dougal]

This guy did a great job brazing it, and I beleive the drain tube is designed for turbo? It came with my turbo oil line kit so it should be fine and handle the temps? we will see.

R

The drain pipe will be fine, any type of oil resistant hose will work, the heat is not a problem.

 

[Sykoslug]

Nice Work- I think I will save your pics and post them where my 3B can't see 'em.

Where did you find the A/C components? I am shopping

 

[Roberto]

mine came installed from factory or dealership I guess from when purchased in AUS? thanks, a year ago my engine was a diaster looking piece that someone painted with silver spray paint to hide where the top radiator hose was sprating a leak and coolant was a bit rusty so they painted over the spray?

R

 

[JoeCanadian]

looks good, but you need to splash some oil, grease, and grime on the engine. it way clean for a 3b-T although i did see some block rust on one of your oil pan drain pics. i think the drain angle will be just fine.

 

[Roberto]

Got belts on

Got alternator rebuilt, put in new oil seal, bearing, diodes, brushes in it, along with new rotor, new oil pump gears and brushes. Got belts on, went to put on new fan clutch and since it was aftermarket it did not line up with OEM fan blade, so 4Wheelauto is taking back and I just got my new OEM fan clutch so will go on next. Took me awhile to figure out belts, I had the idler pulleys on wrong sides so had to switch with each other.

R

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Roberto,

I have a few parts you may want to make this a cleaner install. They are parts from Diesel42 and My new B Series Turbo Kits.

The parts I have are 45 degree angle 1/2 NPT to 5/8 hose barb that allows you to clock the drain line at the turbo to a higher angle and get the oil feed line to vertical as is recommended. You can use it at the oil pan bung too to get a more vertical drian line. I also have a 1/8 BSPT to 4an (37 Deg JIC) fitting so you can use only one fitting at the oil galley to the line. No adapters or t's.

Let me know if you are interested. I think it would be around $15 for the parts plus shipping but will make for a much cleaner (if yours could any more clean) install.

 

[Clint79]

That return pipe to your sump cant get mashed by the diff or front shaft? a mate put a turbo etc on his 1hz 80 and not thinking about the surroundings when he put it in a bit of the front diff or shaft cant remember when 4x4ing come up and bent it on flexing?

 

[Roberto]

I hope not, I will only be doing light camping and stuff like that even though I built to much higher standards. Heck I dont want to even drive it in a mud puddle when I get it rolling, lol. If it was to flex enough to hit that then it is going to take out my oil filter as well form the looks of it. I will keep fingers crossed. Thanks

Rob

 

[magnus_heydoc]

"clean" parts

Hey Brecken,
If you still have the parts, I'm turboing my 3b shortly and can use them if you still have them.
best
Aaron

 

[Roberto]

more pics

got the OEM fan clutch in and on, belt tightened, radiator on and hoses attached to include lower radiator hose heater, will go through today and tighten all fuel componenets to specs and prep and paint P/S cooler lines and attach to frame

 

[Roberto]

more pics

installed P/S cooler lines, battery brackets, P/S pressure lines, venturi lines, edic motor

 

[Roberto]

few more

 

[lostmarbles]

Wow.... That looks sooooooo nice Rob

 

[Roberto]

Thank you brother, the turbo orange line is just hanging around before I cut the appropriate length, as well as the heater hose. I am going to get a new P/S pressure line and I was going to ask you on galvanizing your rims, was there any problems with the ring afterwards? I am thinking of doing same thing?

R