1982 Pick up truck (1 Viewer)

[Eest]

I’m a new Toyota owner. It is a 1982 Toyota Pick up. Its in rough shape but it runs me to work and around town everyday. It rides really rough though. Shakes pretty violently around 55 to 60 mph. And when i hit any bumps in the road it feels like im falling into a ditch. Im thinking i need to redo the shocks. But idk which ones I need. I think its been lifted aswell but idk how to check by how much. Any guidance would be appreciated. I can send any necessary photos.

Brandon.

 

[IslandJ]

A guy I know picked up one of those recently. Absolutely one of the coolest paint schemes to ever exist from the 80's truck world.

 

[Eest]

If you look at how close those bump stops are to the place they will come in contact. It is a very short distance so you will likely be using those a lot more than you should showing how the springs do look inverted like @pappy indicated. Have you considered getting the underside coated with fluid film or anything? Seems like you've lost a lot of paint under there and leaving it without any treatment might really make it's life with you very very short.

Ill look into that. Should i flip the springs over? Do they need to be replaced?

 

[Eest]

A guy I know picked up one of those recently. Absolutely one of the coolest paint schemes to ever exist from the 80's truck world.

I agree wish it wasnt so rusted out so i could get it redone

 

[clx16]

They need to be replaced. New springs and shocks will make a huge improvement for the ride.

Very cool truck, wish it were mine. Mine is not yet even a roller yet but i had planned on going with the same paint scheme. I thought for the white portion i might use the older slightly off white that was used on the fj40.

 

[pappy]

Ill look into that. Should i flip the springs over? Do they need to be replaced?

Flipping the springs won't help. They really need to be replaced. Personally, I wouldn't get crazy with it. Maybe just an off-the-shelf OME kit. Ya, it's expensive, and probably worth more than the truck. But, it would solve the sag, and really improve the ride. It would also give you a bit of lift. OK, with those sagging springs, lots of lift.

I would consider taking a wire brush, and some elbow, to the frame and hitting it with POR15, maybe with a rust encapsulator paint first.

 

[pappy]

Oh, if you haven't figured it out yet this group is good at two things. 1) Keeping you busy with your projects. 2) Spending other people's money.

 

[desmocruiser]

Definitely a bottom up project that is worth saving and investing money and time into! From the appearance and your description, it doesn’t sound like it is fun, easy or safe? to drive long term.

I would replace the suspension ( springs, shocks, bushings) with an ome kit and all related rubber and wear suspension items, they are all toast. Call Cruiser Outfitters in Utah and they can set you up! You will be amazed at how it drives afterwards!

While under there, I would definitely clean the frame and toss on some protection so it doesn’t get worse. How far you go depends on how you plan to use it in Michigan. Add some seat covers and get ready to say thanks at the thumbs up you get going down the road and saying that is cool after people ask you what year is it and proceed to tell you about the one they had and how it was the best vehicle they ever owned!

 

[Eest]

Flipping the springs won't help. They really need to be replaced. Personally, I wouldn't get crazy with it. Maybe just an off-the-shelf OME kit. Ya, it's expensive, and probably worth more than the truck. But, it would solve the sag, and really improve the ride. It would also give you a bit of lift. OK, with those sagging springs, lots of lift.

I would consider taking a wire brush, and some elbow, to the frame and hitting it with POR15, maybe with a rust encapsulator paint first.

Can you send me a link of the kit you would recommend?

 

[Eest]

Definitely a bottom up project that is worth saving and investing money and time into! From the appearance and your description, it doesn’t sound like it is fun, easy or safe? to drive long term.

I would replace the suspension ( springs, shocks, bushings) with an ome kit and all related rubber and wear suspension items, they are all toast. Call Cruiser Outfitters in Utah and they can set you up! You will be amazed at how it drives afterwards!

While under there, I would definitely clean the frame and toss on some protection so it doesn’t get worse. How far you go depends on how you plan to use it in Michigan. Add some seat covers and get ready to say thanks at the thumbs up you get going down the road and saying that is cool after people ask you what year is it and proceed to tell you about the one they had and how it was the best vehicle they ever owned!

Can you send me some links of parts you would recommend? And what coating to use? Do i just get under there and wire brush everything and then coat it?

 

[desmocruiser]

Can you send me some links of parts you would recommend? And what coating to use? Do i just get under there and wire brush everything and then coat it?

Cruiser Outfitters

They will also have tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, universal joints, brakes etc.

As far as the underneath, I would go as simple as a wire brush and either fluid film or rust encapsulator and vht roll bar paint and repeat as needed, both available at your local auto parts retailer and avoid driving in the Winter. The frame looks solid just a lot of flaking, but if you drive in a Michigan winter or two, that frame will go quickly and the only way to combat that is a frame off and powder coating or epoxy paint.

 

[pappy]

Can you send me a link of the kit you would recommend?

Cruiser Outfitters

This.

 

[61twpw]

I’ve had good luck with chassis saver paints on frames and running gear. The silver has aluminum flakes in suspension. Brush it on after wire brushing and cleaning with alcohol. When cured it’s pretty tough. I use the black as a top coat. It can be brushed on and reacts with the humidity to cure. I’ve even used the silver to seal and coat a small engine fuel tank. The advantage of a brush on for me is I can do small areas at a time if necessary.

 

[Eest]

I’ve had good luck with chassis saver paints on frames and running gear. The silver has aluminum flakes in suspension. Brush it on after wire brushing and cleaning with alcohol. When cured it’s pretty tough. I use the black as a top coat. It can be brushed on and reacts with the humidity to cure. I’ve even used the silver to seal and coat a small engine fuel tank. The advantage of a brush on for me is I can do small areas at a time if necessary.

Sounds good thanks for the advice

 

[Eest]

Cruiser Outfitters

They will also have tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, universal joints, brakes etc.

As far as the underneath, I would go as simple as a wire brush and either fluid film or rust encapsulator and vht roll bar paint and repeat as needed, both available at your local auto parts retailer and avoid driving in the Winter. The frame looks solid just a lot of flaking, but if you drive in a Michigan winter or two, that frame will go quickly and the only way to combat that is a frame off and powder coating or epoxy paint.

okay ill look into the undercoating more, its pretty much a daily driver for me so it will have to suffer through some MI winters

 

[Eest]

This.

Perfect thanks

 

[Eest]

Has anyone done this work before? Would i need specialized tools? Or just basic mechanical knowledge and the manual will be enough to get me by? Any ideas how long a job like this would take? Could i do it over a weekend?

 

[pappy]

Has anyone done this work before? Would i need specialized tools? Or just basic mechanical knowledge and the manual will be enough to get me by? Any ideas how long a job like this would take? Could i do it over a weekend?

What it's going to come down to is how rusty everything is. Air tools will help. Expect to bust fasteners, which is a reason I would suggest the complete OME kit. It's just a nuts and bolts operation. The only issue is a biggy.

The frame eye bolt on the rear spring will probably not want to come out. There is a steel sleeve inside the bushing. That sleeve gets rusted to the bolt, and makes extraction impossible. The sleeve is larger than the bolt hole. Have a sawsall on hand with a new, sharp, blade to cut both sides to get the old spring down. Another reason to get the complete kit. One solution is to ditch the sleeve, drill the frame mount to 18mm, and install an 18mm bolt (watch the gas tank!). That sleeve is there to keep you from over compressing the bushing. Somebody was selling that bolt (4Crawler?), but I don't remember.

Make sure you have jack stands for under the frame, and under the axle. Watch the brake lines and don't over stretch. Might be a good time to replace them anyway.

Considering how rusty everything is this could take a weekend. I can do it in half a day.

 

[Eest]

Well, that is a project. Good luck. Two observations. First, your sway bar bushing are toast. Add that to the list. Second, the front springs look inverted. No lift.

The sway bar bushings are not part of the kit right? thats something separate i would need to get?

 

[pappy]

The sway bar bushings are not part of the kit right? thats something separate i would need to get?

Correct. The little donuts at the links, plus the two frame mounts.