1982 FJ40 Dieseling issue...... (1 Viewer)

[ColdTrails]

My 1982 FJ40 land cruiser just started dieseling after it warms up and I turn it off. I had a few things done to it a week before this started, such as:

-New plugs (Toyota OEM)
-Points (Toyota OEM)
-Condensor (Toyota OEM)
-New Denso Coil

I'm a Texas guy but have lived in Bali and Java for the past 5 years. I needed fuel and the only thing available was Pertamax Xtra which is 98 octane, I only put in about 14.00 usd or 200.000 indonesian rupiah. I drove it to the nearest fuel station and filled it completely with the normal fuel I use here which is Pertamax which is 94 octane, been using this Pertamax for over two years. The only other fuel available here is Pertalite which is 92 octane. We dont have any fuel under 92 octane in this country.

So what I've been doing is holding the brake while in gear to shut the engine down to keep it from dieseling. Any ideas here guys? I have read several post about dieseling but can't figure it out. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[1FastBimmer]

Non original carb? The aftermarket don’t have a fuel cutoff switch and still pull fuel after you switch the key off, carbon in the chamber or on the plugs can light it off, this gets worse with heat and is more likely if the idle is too high. Those counties likely use a different octane testing method than you are used to in the states, we use R+M/2 and the likely use RON or AKI. Though it’s designed for regular US, so 85 octane or so.

 

[cruisermatt]

I’m thinking ignition timing is slightly advanced

 

[mrjordann]

Non original carb? The aftermarket don’t have a fuel cutoff switch and still pull fuel after you switch the key off, carbon in the chamber or on the plugs can light it off, this gets worse with heat and is more likely if the idle is too high. Those counties likely use a different octane testing method than you are used to in the states, we use R+M/2 and the likely use RON or AKI. Though it’s designed for regular US, so 85 octane or so.

@ColdTrails Yeah I'm young so I didn't know this, but... apparently the factory wiring harness had a wire for one of those anti-dieseling solenoids. I guess many cars from this era relied on parts like this to keep the vehicle from dieseling even when they were new. Look into one. If you have an oem carb it might be your solution. If you have a weber carb, you can probable find one too, as @Dizzy pointed out here.

 

[1FastBimmer]

@ColdTrails Yeah I'm young so I didn't know this, but... apparently the factory wiring harness had a wire for one of those anti-dieseling solenoids. I guess many cars from this era relied on parts like this to keep the vehicle from dieseling even when they were new. Look into one. If you have an oem carb it might be your solution. If you have a weber carb, you can probable find one too, as @Dizzy pointed out here.

Outstanding I didn’t know this was available, will be an excellent stop gap until I can go back OEM.

 

[ColdTrails]

Non original carb? The aftermarket don’t have a fuel cutoff switch and still pull fuel after you switch the key off, carbon in the chamber or on the plugs can light it off, this gets worse with heat and is more likely if the idle is too high. Those counties likely use a different octane testing method than you are used to in the states, we use R+M/2 and the likely use RON or AKI. Though it’s designed for regular US, so 85 octane or so.

My carb is OEM with a electric solenoid fuel shutoff. My wiring harness was replaced approx 1 year ago so I have to think the shut off solenoid is likely not working and will check it probably today. Appreciate everyones help

 

[ColdTrails]

I’m thinking ignition timing is slightly advanced

Wonder the best way to check that? The shops over here don't use timing lights like we do in America.

 

[cruisermatt]

Wonder the best way to check that? The shops over here don't use timing lights like we do in America.

Mark the distributor where it is and then retard the timing a little and see what happens.
If you changed points out without touching the timing then it's possible the dwell angle is ever so slightly off, enough to actually change the ignition timing

 

[numby]

I’m thinking ignition timing is slightly advanced

Yep.

 

[ColdTrails]

Mark the distributor where it is and then retard the timing a little and see what happens.
If you changed points out without touching the timing then it's possible the dwell angle is ever so slightly off, enough to actually change the ignition timing

Makes perfect sense because after the mech installed the points, condensor etc I noticed the engine sound at the rear exhaust sounded heavier than before, more like a tractor. May I ask, which direction should I start with the timing turn? Meaning, clockwise maybe the wrong direction and may cause firing problems. Been many years back in America I did have some experience with this but cant seem to get my brain to serve up those memories! lol

Also, I notice my engine running a bit warmer too. For the past 2 years I could idle with AC blowing hard and cold @175 degrees, and now it runs around 195 degrees. I think you are spot on with the timing being set incorrectly.

 

[ColdTrails]

Seems you experts were exactly correct! I retarded the timing just a little, re-adjusted the idle for that and NO MORE DIESELING!! My cruiser performs like it used to before the points were changed. After retarding the timing, my power is back and it runs smooth and at a better performance than before. This will be a great thread for other who experience the same issue after a complete tune up!

I appreciate all the help!!