1982 FJ40 build (resurrection) Bluey (1 Viewer)

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Congrats on the purchase! I have your cruiser's twin brother, see my Avatar. I am by no means an expert in any of this, however, mine is an 82' too. PM me if you ever need some reference pictures or ??? I am in the process of replacing the entire tub. Any chance you could pull a couple quick measurements for me?

I am looking for:
1.) an accurate dimension between upper portion of the rear cross member and the lower portion of the body tub (measured at the center of the tub / cross member under the ambulance doors). In other words, the height that the body sits off of the cross member.

2.) the forward or aft distance that the tub should be in relation to the rear cross member. Should the body be flush with the cross member? Should it stick out beyond the cross member? Or should the cross member stick out farther than the tub? How much?

I am struggling with lining everything up. My new tub is a Gozzard unit which is why I can't pull the dimensions off the original tub. Thanks again! , I finally have a suitable garage to start work on this project again. Back on the road by 2022 is the goal!

Thanks again and congrats!
Will do.

By cross member, do you mean the the rear cross member on the frame in relation to the tub or do you mean a cross member that’s welded on the tub? Or do you mean the rear sill on the tub? I only ask because I know people call different things by different names so want to make sure I get you what you need. Not trying to be condescending.
 
Will do.

By cross member, do you mean the the rear cross member on the frame in relation to the tub or do you mean a cross member that’s welded on the tub? Or do you mean the rear sill on the tub? I only ask because I know people call different things by different names so want to make sure I get you what you need. Not trying to be condescending.
Sorry, yes the rear frame cross member..... the piece that is riveted to the frame rails and the tail lights are attached to. Thanks again!
 
I have a US specs 81 with factory AC and PS...the 81-83 models are special...but parts are very hard to locate as its the final 3 years of production and production numbers are much smaller. Yours looks to have all the unobtanium parts intact. Great find. Take your time and keep it original.

And agree, do not put a Weber on it...leave the stock carb.
 
She's a beauty!

Paint code wouldn't happen to be 854? Cause in my humble yet meaningless opinion there is only one perfect fj40 color.
I’ll have to check. Do they put the code on the vin tag or somewhere?
 
I have a US specs 81 with factory AC and PS...the 81-83 models are special...but parts are very hard to locate as its the final 3 years of production and production numbers are much smaller. Yours looks to have all the unobtanium parts intact. Great find. Take your time and keep it original.

And agree, do not put a Weber on it...leave the stock carb.
What are your thoughts on an EFI set up? I’d like to get rid of all the California emissions stuff as Kansas doesn’t require it. Keep it all with the fj but not on the fj
 
Sorry, yes the rear frame cross member..... the piece that is riveted to the frame rails and the tail lights are attached to. Thanks again!
Ok, I’ll try to get you some measurements tomorrow.
 
Well some one at some point put this dumb thing on it and caused it to over heat so need a new heater hose.

D87E2036-ED2C-4888-8F46-42B851303FAC.jpeg
 
Hey, congrats on the truck for sure! I enjoyed catching up on your thread :). I too have a US spec ‘82 (Feb. ‘82), but without the coveted factory P/S and A/C. But I adore it just the way it is :)
My personal opinion: keep it/rebuild it as stock as possible, including smog equipment (it’s just more rare). I love em the way they came, however, the beauty of these rigs is: it’s yours and if you do what makes you happy with it, that’s respected :) it’s a special rig, one to be proud of and provide years of enjoyment. Big Congrats!!!
 
Hi, Just looks like a Preston flush valve for back flushing,they work quite well. Mike
 
Hi, Just looks like a Preston flush valve for back flushing,they work quite well. Mike
Agreed. They probably work well when properly installed. This one is far from that so I’m just going to remove it.
 
I also have an ‘82.
Although I dont share everyone’s oppinion on Weber. In a pinch between running and not running, I’d tempoarily put one on. You can easily find one for low $ or for free. They are easy to rebuild with very few parts. I have one you can have if you want it until you get your factory one sorted. I’s been freshly rebuilt too. To me spending over $2k for a Sniper isnt really worth it to me to occasionally put around. If I were in high altitude or as a daily, i might consider it.
I am also a fan as keeping it to stock as much as possible too. That means keeping all the smog on. You have a nice time machine there since your smog is all there. Id keep it.
Here is a bit of advice too. Do all the work yourself or take it to someone that specializes in Landcruisers. If you take it to the shop down the road, most likely they are going to take shortcuts to get your 40 of their lift as soon as possible to make room for something that is easier to make the shop more money. They will not use proper wiring techniques and quality parts. These vehicles are incredibly easy to work on and you have all the resources here on Mud. That’s my $.02 worth.
 
As fascinated as I am by TLC and Proffits big dollar videos I just have to smile accelerating and holding back traffic getting to 55mph in my stock 82. Really enjoy teaching my kids how to start it with the choke. If I had a wish list it would be a 5-speed for a little more too speed
 
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