1982 BJ40 RHD with B engine - oil bath air cleaner conversion to dry for turbo install?

[Winger]

Hi
I just got a RHD 1982 BJ40 with B engine. I will be installing a turbo, but have been reading that an oil bath air cleaner is not a good idea with a turbo. My search has not turned up any definitive answers - what options do I have to convert my existing oil back air cleaner to a dry air cleaner?
Anyone who has done it and has pictures to share?
Thank you!

 

[45Dougal]

I have the oil bath on my HJ45, but i don't have a turbo...
I guess if you're retrofitting a turbo, then the turbo location and ducting will dominate your filter options though.

The factory filter outlet will always point towards the throttle body, but maybe you need it pointing downwards towards the exhaust?
I'd be thinking K&N clamp-on filter wherever it will fit

 

[charliemeyer007]

I am still running my cleanable oiled foam unit purchased from Man-a-fre in 1983 in the stock 72 air cleaner can. Some where I have a can of Filtron "sticky snot oil" for the foam. The filter housing looks like this FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60, 62, FJ80, FZJ80, and UZH100 Land Cruiser Air Cleaner and Filter Assembly - Specter Off-Road - https://www.sor.com/cat/012
This is what manny has for the filter now (K&N Air Filter for 1958-1974 Toyota Land Cruisers with F Engines - Landcruiser Parts - https://manafrelv.com/product/kn-air-filter-for-early-production-1974-f-series-engine-88-8-92-engine/) - not sure its cleanable. The foam unit I just wash with gasolene, wring it out, pour on some oil, squish it about, slip it over the wire mesh liner and put it back in the cleaner box.

As a side note, at one time I was planning to do something like a turbo or supercharger (either belt or electric) - I was going drill big holes around the can and then cover them with spring steel fingers - this would be my boost control by how much they opened to bleed off air and I could just run the turbo/super charger wide open and only filter air that went into the engine.

 

[Winger]

I have the oil bath on my HJ45, but i don't have a turbo...
I guess if you're retrofitting a turbo, then the turbo location and ducting will dominate your filter options though.

The factory filter outlet will always point towards the throttle body, but maybe you need it pointing downwards towards the exhaust?
I'd be thinking K&N clamp-on filter wherever it will fit

Thanks. I'll look up the K&N clamp-on filter to see if it'll work once I check how everything lines up with the install.

 

[Winger]

Thank you both for your replies!
Anyone know if I definitely can't or shouldn't run the oil back air cleaner with a turbo installed?

 

[45Dougal]

I can't say definitively - depends how much extra airflow the turbo will add. A few psi is probably ok.

Having said that, unless you're in an extreme environment or "preparing for the big one", you don't need the oil bath, and a modern paper filter should give you a more lively engine - and you'll be 5kg lighter.

 

[3_puppies]

is the theory that with the increased suction of the turbo, sucking the oil out of the oil bath filter?
are you trying to keep the stock look?
is a turbo on a B engine a good idea? is it a B or 2B or 3B?

 

[Winger]

is the theory that with the increased suction of the turbo, sucking the oil out of the oil bath filter?
are you trying to keep the stock look?
is a turbo on a B engine a good idea? is it a B or 2B or 3B?

Yes. That’s what I’ve read - there is a risk that you can end up sucking oil into the intake.
Stock lock is preferred but not dealbreaker.
I’ve read it’s a great idea and really the only way to make B engine ‘driveable’ on the highway.
It’s a B engine.

 

[-MaTTi-]

Oil bath filter should work just fine with a turbo too.

 

[Winger]

The oil bath air cleaner does not seem to work for my set up. I took my ride out for a spin after installing the turbo. After about 50km on my way back home I had a runaway engine in the middle of the interstate. I was able to shut off the engine within 30 seconds by jumping out and blocking the intake (I have non-edic and the cable wasn't cutting off the fuel from inside the cab and my adrenaline spiked brain didn't think of moving the cutoff level in the engine manually). Large amount of thick black smoke was coming out of the exhaust during the runaway, antifreeze was spewing out of the reservoir, and a nice puddle of oil (and maybe fuel) came out of the breather tube), no noticeable change in my oil level dipstick mark). My prevailing theory is that engine started taking in oil from the oil bath air assembly given that all intake tubes are an oily mess. Max boost on gauge was 15psi and max EGT was 1200. Of note - both vacuum lines popped off from their connections (though not sure if this happened because I blocked the intake or if these vacuum lines popping off are what caused the runaway?)

Couple of questions -

• Any other theories as to what else may have caused my runaway engine?
• Anyone have pictures of how the cut-off cable is routed from the cab to the engine? The stopnut on mine slipped and I can't figure out how to set it back. None of the locations I've tried along the cable allow me to move the lever on the engine by pulling the cable from inside the cab (using an enormous amount of force the cable won't budge) but the lever in the engine moves normally by hand.
• Any recommendations on an aftermarket air cleaner assembly (going rate for used OEM are $600+!)
• Anything else I should check before I start this engine back up?

 

[45Dougal]

The oil bath air cleaner does not seem to work for my set up. I took my ride out for a spin after installing the turbo. After about 50km on my way back home I had a runaway engine in the middle of the interstate. I was able to shut off the engine within 30 seconds by jumping out and blocking the intake (I have non-edic and the cable wasn't cutting off the fuel from inside the cab and my adrenaline spiked brain didn't think of moving the cutoff level in the engine manually). Large amount of thick black smoke was coming out of the exhaust during the runaway, antifreeze was spewing out of the reservoir, and a nice puddle of oil (and maybe fuel) came out of the breather tube), no noticeable change in my oil level dipstick mark). My prevailing theory is that engine started taking in oil from the oil bath air assembly given that all intake tubes are an oily mess. Max boost on gauge was 15psi and max EGT was 1200. Of note - both vacuum lines popped off from their connections (though not sure if this happened because I blocked the intake or if these vacuum lines popping off are what caused the runaway?)

Couple of questions -

• Any other theories as to what else may have caused my runaway engine?
• Anyone have pictures of how the cut-off cable is routed from the cab to the engine? The stopnut on mine slipped and I can't figure out how to set it back. None of the locations I've tried along the cable allow me to move the lever on the engine by pulling the cable from inside the cab (using an enormous amount of force the cable won't budge) but the lever in the engine moves normally by hand.
• Any recommendations on an aftermarket air cleaner assembly (going rate for used OEM are $600+!)
• Anything else I should check before I start this engine back up?

Have you done a compression test? Could be that you've blown your head gasket

 

[Winger]

Have you done a compression test? Could be that you've blown your head gasket

Thanks. I haven’t yet. I’ve added it to my todo list thank you!

 

[Winger]

Thanks. I haven’t yet. I’ve added it to my todo list thank you!

Hit send too soon - @45Dougal here’s a noob question could I have blown the head gasket due to the runaway or could a blown head gasket cause a runaway?

 

[-MaTTi-]

Couple of questions -

• Any other theories as to what else may have caused my runaway engine?

How’s your turbo oil return? Too restrictive hose/pipe can cause oil floating/overflow too the intake.

 

[Winger]

How’s your turbo oil return? Too restrictive hose/pipe can cause oil floating/overflow too the intake.

Thanks. I’ll have a look. It’s the larger of the two braided steel lines that came with the turbo kit. I don’t remember the size but I’ll open the line up to make sure no obstructions.

 

[charliemeyer007]

You could look for bubbles in the radiator as a sign of a blown head gasket. I think those chemical exhaust gas in the coolant will work on diesel engines.

Amazon.com: RELD Head Gasket Tester Kit Combustion Leak Detector for 50 Tests : Automotive

Buy RELD Head Gasket Tester Kit Combustion Leak Detector for 50 Tests: Fuel Pressure Testers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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[-MaTTi-]

Thanks. I’ll have a look. It’s the larger of the two braided steel lines that came with the turbo kit. I don’t remember the size but I’ll open the line up to make sure no obstructions.

Where is it mounted? Oil pan or vacuum pump oil return? What’s your turbo, make and model?

 

[Winger]

Where is it mounted? Oil pan or vacuum pump oil return? What’s your turbo, make and model?

Oil pan. Garret GT20.

 

[Winger]

You could look for bubbles in the radiator as a sign of a blown head gasket. I think those chemical exhaust gas in the coolant will work on diesel engines.

Amazon.com: RELD Head Gasket Tester Kit Combustion Leak Detector for 50 Tests : Automotive

Buy RELD Head Gasket Tester Kit Combustion Leak Detector for 50 Tests: Fuel Pressure Testers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Thanks! I put a testing kit in my Amazon cart. Just waiting to check over everything else before I try to start this engine again.

 

[45Dougal]

Hit send too soon - @45Dougal here’s a noob question could I have blown the head gasket due to the runaway or could a blown head gasket cause a runaway?

I'm not actually sure... it would have to be a break through into the oil galley rather than the water, but i guess if you had good oil pressure then you could feed a cylinder?? Maybe?

How's your oil level looking on the dip stick?