1981 FJ40 Restoration (2 Viewers)

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I used a roll of foam and cut them into 1" pieces and then rolled the pieces into each of the bolt holes.

I cant believe how well it turned out.....In my eyes, it does not get any better. as it may ad 8 pounds and superior protection to the tub.

Shane
 
Wow Shane...this is the kind of resto!!!

I like the idea of a cheat sheet...or better yet, let us know if you have hi-res of everything on a site somewhere...:hmm::hmm:

You know what...you may want to consider putting together some videos, or selling some DVD's on how you do some of this work. Truth be told, I think I am capable a good job (only wish I could do such musem stuff) , but it sure would be nice to see how someone else managed to get such a great job done. Think about it..these would be great refernce tools for anyone interested in restoring.

BTW...looked at your stuff, but couldn't find any 135 stickers...you make any?
 
My wife said no FJ! said:
Wow Shane...this is the kind of resto!!!

I like the idea of a cheat sheet...or better yet, let us know if you have hi-res of everything on a site somewhere...:hmm::hmm:

You know what...you may want to consider putting together some videos, or selling some DVD's on how you do some of this work. Truth be told, I think I am capable a good job (only wish I could do such musem stuff) , but it sure would be nice to see how someone else managed to get such a great job done. Think about it..these would be great refernce tools for anyone interested in restoring.

BTW...looked at your stuff, but couldn't find any 135 stickers...you make any?
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I have the colorful F153 ones..

PM or email me if you need one.

Shane
 
Since you started out this post with axle and brake work I had a question that I know the cruiser heads on here can answer easily. I am doing a frame off on my 78'. As with all restores it is taking a while and I want to do it right. I am changing a few things but first I want to change out the rear drum brakes and start from there. I read a lot about what I need but do you, or anyone who is checking this post out, know what exactly I should get to make the job go smoothly? I hear it's gm rotors but don't know what year or model and a 4 runner master, but no year or model. Anyone got better than the FAQ?

Thanks,
Paul
 
Yep you suck. Amazing work. Great attention to detail as usual. But not nearly gay enough.:D

Oh and you need to take the teflon tape off the coolant sensor. Or check to make sure you have ohm'd it out to make sure you have a good connection.:flipoff2:



:beer::beer::beer:
 
Trollhole said:
Oh and you need to take the teflon tape off the coolant sensor. Or check to make sure you have ohm'd it out to make sure you have a good connection.:flipoff2:



:beer::beer::beer:
Click to expand...

Never thought of that.........THen what do you use? pipe dope?
 
AATLAS1X said:
Never thought of that.........THen what do you use? pipe dope?
Click to expand...

I've never used anything. Never had a leak. I'd just ohm it out. It might be good.
 
Thanks guys!:crybaby:

They're rather big though, but I still have a few pairs left, either with clear or yellow lenses.:grinpimp:

Nice work, Shane!:beer:

Mot :)
 
Question about the spray in liner...From the looks of it, you are doing the spary in liner first, and then going to paint the tub. Why not the other ay around?

I would imagine that getting a nice crisp break between paint and liner would be easier if you had the paint already on.

Won't it be hard to prevent overspary from getting on the liner if you paint right up to the boundary after the liner is already on?

I am wondering about this becasue I am about ready to line my tub, and want to know if it is better to do so before or after paint.....


Thanks,
Chris
 
Great Job!!!

I have just completed a frame off restoration of a 1982 FJ40. I have included some pictures.
IMG_0687.jpg
IMG_0685.jpg
IMG_0442.jpg
 
Guys,
I'm a complete newbie and this is my first post. I have loved these vehicles for years and now I am finally going to pick one up. I'm lucky because where I am presently living overseas they have lots of FJ40's, decent mechanics and great body shops. I am also working with three guys who are each doing frame off restorations of antique vehicles however I am the only one doing an FJ40. While I have read alot and have my own check list of the things that I want to do, I would love to have a copy of that cheat sheet Atlas, your work is truly an inspiration. I plan to use the pics to help me explain to the mechanics the way I want the final results to look.
On a related note and not trying to hijack the thread, do you have a recommendation on a turbo charger kit for a 2F engine. After much thought I decided to stay with the 2F during my restore but would like to have a bit more power for highway driving and a bit better gas mileage. Again your work is way sick and has me all jazzed to get started asap! Thanks so much to all for any advice.
 
FYI I did search the threads a couple of different ways but did not find an answer to the precise question regarding the existence of a kit for the 2F. Again thanks for any recommendations.
 
no kit available anywhere, i can promise that. Better gas milage with a turbo, yea right, your not going to achieve better, maybe worse. I've just gotton used to 8 miles per gallon. Good luck sourcing the parts.:flipoff2:
 
aggiecruiser said:
Question about the spray in liner...From the looks of it, you are doing the spary in liner first, and then going to paint the tub. Why not the other ay around?

I would imagine that getting a nice crisp break between paint and liner would be easier if you had the paint already on.

Won't it be hard to prevent overspary from getting on the liner if you paint right up to the boundary after the liner is already on?

I am wondering about this becasue I am about ready to line my tub, and want to know if it is better to do so before or after paint.....


Thanks,
Chris
Click to expand...
Good question, and I am not sure I would do it this way again. But www.restoredfj40.com does it this way and a friend bought one of thiers and I like tht there is no hard edge as the liners edges are smoothed out prior to paint. Alot more work, but again not sure if I would go this route.

This one is going to MN so I want it sealed up tight to gaurd against rust as long as possible. I am also shooting the underside of tub and all wheel wheels as well, but in black.

Shane
 
Hey Shane,
Nice work!Sent you an e-mail and PM about a sticker just wondering if you got the message?Does no reply mean you haven't got them.
Thanks Shamus
 
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