1980 Yota Pi(cj)up (1 Viewer)

[Traah221]

So, the 1st Gen purists here might want to stop reading, as this is borderline gore for them. I've been searching for a super cheap, running 1st Gen pickup for some time, wanting that factory 4x4 8" solid axle goodness, and a decent platform to turn into a blown SBC minitruck monster. Since I've got free time, but not a lot of cash, I didn't have my hopes up on getting anything that fit my bill, but then I found this...thing...on CL posted for $1,000 with 92,XXX original miles and a freshly rebuilt 20R. Oh boy! So I asked for some pictures.

Oh Boy.

I went and looked at it, gave it a full pit inspection, short of a body-off frame look (later). Drive train was in shockingly good condition, as was the Weber 32/36 carb, considering the age and...ahem, Aesthetics of the vehicle. After a test drive or 3, I decided that, looks aside, it could indeed be used as a daily as I slowly gather the parts to repair/refurbish/upgrade it, so I gave the kid an offer of $700, and had the title in hand minutes later. The truck performed flawlessly for the 80 mph, 50 minute long trip on I-84 from Boise to Mountain Home, a fairly comfy albeit noisy ride. I'm currently sorting out some wiring issues, and will probably be pulling the dash and harness this weekend to give it a thorough once-over, but without further ado:
I give you the least attractive project truck possibly in existence right now, my 1980 PiCJup.

You can't make this s*** up.

From what I can tell, it looks like the grille from a CJ5/6/7, welded to previously stock front Yota fenders. The...uh...bumper? Bullbar? Whatever it is, it's been welded to the frame rails, and brought out about 5 inches, and angle iron appears to have been placed over the wheel wells in place of the nice, stylish, curved fenders of old. The headlights and turn signals do function, but the Offroad lights haven't been connected to anything probably since they were installed in 1981. The whole package is topped off with a nice layer of Rhino Liner, circa 1982 if I had to guess, since 75% of it has been worn down to the green base layer.

From what I was told, the last time the truck was really driven was about a decade ago, by the seller's grandpa, who had owned the truck since 1980. The younger gentleman who I bought it from apparently had no desire to do anything but occasionally start the truck since he obtained it from a family member a few years ago. And now, it's my turn to try and breathe some life back into this beast.

I'll take some pics once I start tearing it down, so we can all experience this disaster together.

 

[msahr]

Oh boy... I thought I'd seen some automotive abortions before... wow. Looking forward (backward?) to seeing where this goes.

 

[D21FJ60]

Frankentruck....i'd say leave it as is and make a monster!

 

[Traah221]

Frankentruck....i'd say leave it as is and make a monster!

I'd be lying if I said the grille hasn't grown on me. It definitely draws some comments.
Local wrecker has a few Gen 1 Pickups in there, gonna grab a new fuse box from one, new doors, probably, and a set of front fenders. If he'll let me get in there with the cutting wheel, I'll come out with the majority of the rear wheel wells too. Going to be a fun time trying to blend the round fenders of the Yotas in with the jeep grille, but I'm gonna keep it.

 

[ferg]

Yep, that's officially ugly. You win!

 

[Traah221]

Yep, that's officially ugly. You win!

Can I get a Trophy? Like a Razzi for aborted trucks?

 

[ferg]

You already have the 'trophy'. It has a jeep grin.

 

[Traah221]

First of two major issues: Leaky Accelerator Pump Diaphragm. $12 online, quick and easy fix, no more leaking fuel or sputtering on gear changes! Also note the lack of electric choke for now, definitely need to get that back on once it starts cooling down more.

Second, and harder, of the two major issues: Rusted out crossmember. Going to have to spend a day at the shop with an acetylene torch, some stock bar, a couple 9/16" bolts, and a wire feed to fix this, but all in all, could be worse. Anyone heard of changing the mounting angle of the shocks for more free movement during flex?

 

[Traah221]

Gotta admire the nice hack welding job. Bit confused, was this done so as to put in a longer shock, but retain stock ride height? Or did they break off the strut mount?

Probably the newest two things on this truck, a nice W55 5 Speed and 1-B T-Case combo.

Jesus take the wheel, this cab needs some TLC. The doors and dash might be beyond saving, but the floor mat and underlying soundproofing material are in great shape.

So...maybe some more knowledgeable people can tell me why this spring retainer looks like it was designed to hold in about 6 more leafs than it is?

This is the worst spot of rust I can find on the frame so far, but thankfully doesn't penetrate past the surface. Once the bed comes off, we shall see.

 

[Bogo]

Or did they break off the strut mount?

Look at the hole punched through the fender liner just above the shock bolt.

 

[Traah221]

Look at the hole punched through the fender liner just above the shock bolt.

Here's what the other side looks like, though, almost as if they intentionally punched holes there so they could clear the adjustment nuts? Or, more likely just overlooked the height of the shocks.

 

[ferg]

The Passenger side front shock tower was broken off and reattached. The drivers side probably had bushing failure and stabbed the fender. I've had both of my front tower just jump off the frame for not apparent reason.

 

[Traah221]

That's good to know, I'll probably add some trusses to them for some extra oomph when I go to do 63" chevy rears and the RUF swap.

 

[ferg]

Ford F250 front shock towers seem to be a good replacement that give better shock travel. They also mount to the vertical of the frame and not to the top with a butt weld.

 

[Traah221]

If there is a hell, the walls are lined with Rhino Lining. Let this be a PSA for anyone considering coating their truck in it, it's like a tattoo. You better be damn sure it's what you want, because going back on your choice is absurdly difficult.

 

[PAToyota]

Sort of like popcorn ceilings…

Are those bolts welded to the bed rails? I’d ask to what purpose, but I don’t think that is a valid question with this truck...

 

[Traah221]

Sort of like popcorn ceilings…

Are those bolts welded to the bed rails? I’d ask to what purpose, but I don’t think that is a valid question with this truck...

Yes, yes they are. The world may never know.

 

[PAToyota]

One could hope for the mounting of some ultra-cool top to the bed…

Yeah… Well… Wishful thinking…

 

[Traah221]

One could hope for the mounting of some ultra-cool top to the bed…

Yeah… Well… Wishful thinking…

The goal is for something ultra-cool under the hood.

Also, after some digging, and stripping the entire passenger side of the bed I've decided.

It's time for a new bed.

The bondo patch job between the sausage bumper and the bed didn't seal very well, and the rust was starting to creep into both. There were some irregularities and waves in the panels from previous cargo too. All in all, just not worth saving.

 

[Traah221]

Victory!
The (ONLY) local wrecker just happens to have a 1980 long bed, with intact doors, bed, front fenders, dash, and wiring harness. I asked him how much straight up if I did all the work myself.

$250 for everything!!

I even negotiated bringing in my old chopped up parts to give back in case he wanted them for the steel price, and he agreed he would go even lower!

Also got a free can of Aircraft stripper with my purchase of one from O'Reilly's because they just happened to have a leaking one they couldn't get rid of. Happy Days!

Some real progress to come soon, now.