Heck yeah!
Some install notes:
I used the 1/4 fuel line from the gas tank to the metal line and then spliced in the adapter, a filter, and the electric fuel pump. It runs fine and has no issues with volume even when you crack the throttle wide open. I wired the fuel pump to get power from the BLUE wire (I think it was pin 1) off the circuit open relay. That way when the relay is energized the fuel pump is on, just like if I was using the factory pump. I searched all over the interwebs to see which wires I had to jump or splice to trick the NSW. There was really no clear answer. Basically, everyone said to connect the "2 black wires." Which ones you ask? There is a round connector with 3 wires in it in the bundle of wires coming off of the harness to where the automatic used to be. (I think there are 4 total connectors.) The connector has two heavy gauge wires, a solid black, and a black with white stripe, and one smaller gauge red wire. All you have to do is jump the two heavy gauge black wires together. The circuit is closed to allow the vehicle to start by the NSW when the vehicle is in park OR neutral. It doesn't actually know which you are in, all it sees is that the circuit is closed. Another thing to note is that I took ALL the harnesses out of the Runner, including the dash harness. So there was very little wiring that I had to do. In fact, the only thing I really had to wire was the fuel pump. Having the whole vehicle def made it easier. I would not say it was really an easy swap but it required minimal modification to install pretty much everything. The A/C stuff didn't really fit so well however. The condenser required some modification to the radiator support cross bar, the A/C lines didn't line up with the holes in the firewall, the A/C boxes are much larger than the ones for the mini, and don't mount the same way, etc.
It will pull a strong vacuum but then when you let it sit for a minute it starts to leak down. Might try to run a little freon in there today and see if I can spot the leak.
