1978 FJ40 Slow build (1 Viewer)

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Ordered several packages of vacuum lines and started the process of replacing them tonight. Was strangely therapeutic and provided a nice break away from work and a reason not to get sucked into the Super Bowl.

The existing lines were not terrible, but found them to be loose at some connections and coming off without much effort. So, figured it would be good to start the process of replacing.

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Perhaps a dumb question, so I’ll ask it here and not muddy up the forum.

How necessary is it to keep the lengths the same as the original vacuum hoses? I would think not very as long as there are no kinks. But curious what others have done who have gone down this path.

Reason for asking, the original hoses are slightly harder (due to age) and also keep their form. With the softer more pliable hoses, they want to sag some places where I’m concerned may be too close to hot surfaces. Seems it makes sense in these situations to make them shorter to avoid melting. Have already done this in a few situations but thought I’d put it out there as a question in case I’m missing something.

Finished product (needs a little housekeeping):
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Shortening slightly won't make any difference to the function. How long is each package of hose for those part numbers?
Each package has 2 feet of hose. I purchased 14 and used 13 of them to replace all the hose, including the two to the distributor. You will need 3 or 4 connectors in all.
 
@Andrew S I had previously ordered another vacuum hose under a different part number to see what the difference is from those I previously ordered. Part No. 90999-92004 is the same hose but is 3 feet 2 inches long. Would have been nice to use it for the two distributor hoses.
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Great info, @Bloomer , thank you! I need to replace all of vacuum lines on my '78 as well.
I’d definitely buy a couple extra so you can make adjustments as needed. They’re only a couple dollars per hose so it’s cheap insurance to have as you’re installing them.

I’m actually going to order 3 or 4 more as I found 4 vac hoses beneath the carb I need to replace. Won’t be able to do so until I remove a few things but want to have them on hand for when I do.
 
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I had lost track of this chart, but with your part numbers I was able to find it again:

That same size hose is available in longer pieces if you need them. Some lengths may not be available, but most are.
 
I had lost track of this chart, but with your part numbers I was able to find it again:

That same size hose is available in longer pieces if you need them. Some lengths may not be available, but most are.
Thanks. That’s a great reference to have. Be nice to have a couple really long ones to run to/from distributor and not have to use a connector.
 
Finally getting around to updating for work done over the past couple weeks. I had planned on flushing the cooling system and replacing heater/radiator hoses and clamps. Discovered a very small pinhole leak on top of the radiator. It was so small it didn’t even leave any residue but just a tiny, tiny spot that looked wet. Well, giving it some thought, the coolant (if it can be called that) may have been so old that it lost any chemical properties that would create residue when leaked.

Several flushes were needed to get the cooling system somewhat cleaned out. Who would’ve thought you could use mud in place of coolant. Seriously, I wish I’d taken a pic of how nasty the coolant actually was, it was like nothing I have ever seen.

New OEM radiator, overflow reservoir, thermostat, hoses, and clamps all around in the engine compartment. Thought seriously about changing out the water pump but opted to wait as I’ll likely do another flush in 6 months to make sure the cooling system is cleaned well. May go ahead and change the water pump then.

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I discovered an exhaust leak from the donut gasket on the down pipe and it sounds like the exhaust manifold has a leak, as well. Have both on order.

I’ve searched here on MUD and haven’t come across a thread that details replacement of the exhaust manifold gasket. Maybe it exists and I just haven’t got the search terms correct.

From looking at the 40, it seems the carb and intake manifold will need to come out to access lower bolts on the exhaust manifold. I’ve started spraying the 4 bolts that are accessible on either end of the manifold with PB Blaster but would like to do the same for the bottom 2(?). Am I missing something on being able to change out the exhaust manifold gasket without fully removing carb and intake? TIA!
 
I’m no expert as I’m chasing a manifold leak myself. If your hell bent on removing manifold, you will need to remove everything. But I would avoid if possible.

The 2F intake/exhaust manifold is joined together and share a gasket to the head. See picture (the red lines are where manifold shares intake/exhaust flange bolt to head)

the donut exhaust gasket can be swapped fairly easily.

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@KY Longhunter thanks for the pic. Helps to see where all the bolts are located. Not stuck on removing the manifold if it’s not absolutely necessary. I’ll probably replace the gasket on the down pipe and see how it does. I know for sure it’s gone bad, can feel exhaust there. Not sure how much of what I’m hearing as the exhaust leak is from that alone. But, replacing it seems pretty straightforward so will do that first, and go from there.
 
The first day of Fall brought us some relief from the summer heat and humidity of South Texas. It was a welcome change and couldn’t pass up the opportunity to take the 40 for a drive that wouldn’t result in the need to change sweat- soaked clothes afterwards.

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I’ve been a little slow on updates here, but huge thanks to @cwwfj60 for getting the 40 running and riding extremely well. I’ll probably forget to mention a few things but some of the work he did included carb rebuild, replacement of master cylinder, oil pan gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, full stainless exhaust (run above frame) with Toyota muffler, and installation of OME suspension (sourced from @cruiseroutfit). Night and day difference driving it now compared to before the work was done. Reach out to @cwwfj60 if you’re in Tx, can get your truck to Schertz/San Antonio, and want someone who will do amazing work. I would have never dreamed this 40 would run as well as it does.

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Can’t overlook the huge hunk of metal on the front. Never thought I’d have a Classic ARB bumper, much less a new one. Can’t thank Cruiser Outfitters enough for the help in finding this bumper.
 
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Purchased a winch and battery/winch battery cables from @Fourrunner. Could not have asked for everything to turn out better. Not only did @Fourrunner deliver amazing cables and a nicely refreshed 8274, he was super helpful on answering so many questions and offering advice. Can’t say enough how great it was buying the cables and winch. If you need either cables and/or a winch, you won’t be disappointed working with @Fourrunner!

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Purchased a winch and battery/winch battery cables from @Fourrunner. Could not have asked for everything to turn out better. Not only did @Fourrunner deliver amazing cables and a nicely refreshed 8274, he was super helpful on answering so many questions and offering advice. Can’t say enough how great it was buying the cables and winch. If you need either cables and/or a winch, you won’t be disappointed working with @Fourrunner!

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That’s awesome he’s building me an 8274 as we speak. Can’t wait to get it.
 
Looks excellent
 

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