1976 FJ40 South American Spec “Restored” in Colombia, fixed in USA.

[Ackcruisers]

This thread is being updated several years after acquiring the truck on Bring a Trailer. The truck was “restored” in Colombia and sold in US. There were so many short cuts the shop in Colombia took that my advice to anyone buying a South American FJ40, find out which shop did the restoration first. In my case, I tracked down the shop and got valuable information to plan the work to bring the truck up to spec.

Post #1 on 11/24/2019 was my first post on ih8mud.com.

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First Post 11/24/2019

I just took delivery on a 1976 FJ40 from Colombia. I’m sorting out electrical/starting/charging issues. I noticed two things:


(Image A)
This shows the main connector off the back of the
alternator with one wire crimped to terminate and the other connects to the harness.

(Image B)
The wire shown in Image A connects to a white wire and fed into harness but there is a green wire cut as shown in image B below.

Does anyone have any idea why the green wire is there and not connected?

(Image C)

Why is this wire just loosely wrapped around the starter?

I have not worked on an FJ40 in 25 years so any help would be appreciated.

thanks

 

[fjwagon]

The starter looks like the newer gear reduction type. If I had to guess, the white wire attached to starter is what energizes the starter when turn the ignition key to start it, there is usually a screw with a terminal attached to it.
The green wire looks like it has been spliced. There is no way of telling if the colors are correct through out. You can do continuity check by using a "jumper" wire at one end and checking for continuity. You may have to physically follow it back. Sorry, it probably not what you wanted to hear.

Check the voltage at the battery terminal when the engine off and check it again when the engine running, there should be a voltage increase when the engine is running. One of the easiest thing you can do is may sure you have good solid connections. Cleanning the terminals goes a long way. Having an Original equipment manual (OEM) will be a huge help.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks @fjwagon. Appreciate your help. I’m going to buy an OEM manual but am using a pdf version until then. I just ordered a Fluke automatic multimeter as my multimeter shows fantom volts. Until then, I explored the wires closer and below is what I discovered. It appears the green wire should be attached to alternator. I reattached the wire to the back of the alternator but still it does not appear to be charging. My next place to look is the voltmeter as the heater and dash cluster is not working. No oil pressure, temp or fuel gauge. I’m reading up on the voltmeter now. Any ideas on why these stopped working? Could the voltmeter be bad?

 

[Ackcruisers]

Also, wanted to post picture of my fuse panel. I’m not sure what panel this is from as the vehicle was restored in Colombia this year. All diagrams I’ve looked at have different fuse panel. Can anyone help determine this wiring configuration and direct me to the right wiring diagram? Thanks as I’m getting lost here...

from top to bottom:
1 - 20 AMP (unknown)
2 - 20 AMP (headlights)
3 - 30 AMP (unknown)
4 - 30 AMP (unknown)
5 - 15 AMP (hazard)
6 - EMPTY slot (no fuse)

 

[3_puppies]

I think your main issue is thinking this rig was restored in Columbia.
it was worked on but not restored.
being as it is an aftermarket fuse panel, no telling what maybe hooked up to what fuse, without a wiring diagram from whoever restored this rig, I think you are on your own. I would have everything on and working and pull 1 fuse at a time and you'll know what it controls.
To actually figure your issues out, I think you will need to go thru all the wiring. the use of "scotch loks" is a dead give away of future issues. along with the pics above.

 

[Dizzy]

There should be a voltage regulator on the firewall, kinda below the brake booster. The repair manual describes two alternator pins going from the regulator to the alternator. On the regulator there are three, but two coming from the alternator.

Are you hooked up at the oil pressure sending unit on the back bottom driver side of the block? Do you have a wire hooked up to the temp sender on the top driver side of the head?

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks for your insights @3_puppies. I’ve owned two US stock FJ40’s in my past and wish I didn’t have to go all the way to Colombia to find my next one.

@Dizzy - there is a voltage regulator mounted on firewall on passenger side. I think the Alternator is now charging battery as my multimeter was showing 14.4 volts when running. This also must mean the volt regulator was open allowing charge to flow to battery.

The vintage air aftermarket heater and instrument cluster is still not working.

Below are the images of the sender units to instrument cluster. I think the first two are Oil Pressure and Temp. The last one does not have a wire to it. Any idea on what that is?

 

[Ackcruisers]

Temp sending unit.

 

[3_puppies]

the blue circle is the rear of the block anti-boil drain

 

[whitey45]

Best advice for a Columbian rig, start fresh with a new wiring harness, otherwise you will be chasing wiring issues for years. Just from the few pics , this rig has a lot of short cuts, and doesn’t bode well for the rest of the “restoration”. I would never buy a South American landcruiser without crawling all over and under it, no matter what the price may seem as a “good deal”. Just my $.02 after 30 years of playing with cruisers!

 

[lelandEOD]

Geez. That doesn't look like fun.

Why are we seeing so many of these Columbian Questo-Restos lately?

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks @whitey45 and everyone for their input. The Colombian FJ40 I bought at auction is in amazing shape however the harness is old. I fixed my alternator and gauge issue as all my problems are with the fuse panel. Attached are images of the panel. Does anyone have a source for a new main harness and or a new fuse panel that is correct for a 1976 FJ40 truck made in Japan and imported to Colombia? I want to get this right...

 

[fjwagon]

Not to change to change the suject,I ended up getting a hj45 from Honduras, they have different specs than the ones from Canada. But did not stop me from buying it. There some truth to buying a restored one from anywhere, and really hard to find a decent one at a good price. South America have some nice cruisers but a lot of them may have not been repaired the way we would perfer. Even the people in business will not purchase a repainted or restored one to start with. All original is my preference but that is my opinion.
On the Honduras 45, the first thing i modified was the harness to accept the illuminated headlight switch we have in the USA. The other thing I want to upgrade are the front brakes. It has drums. With drums you constantly have to adjust the keep working it.

I created a list of things it needed and went down the list. The safety ones got fixed first obviously. .

On your heater, locate the part number and see if you can down load a PDF from Vintage Air. It may help locate the culprit quicker.
Just keep add it. Dont forget to check craigslist, ebay and here for the parts needed. The multimeter will pay dividends.

 

[Dizzy]

City Racer for the fuse block.

One of the nice things about a Land Cruiser of this era, is that a hacked up harness shouldn't be a problem if you don't let your attention stray away from addressing the details.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks @Dizzy - appreciate the positivity about reharnessing. I’ll check out city racer now. My goal would be to follow exactly the wiring diagram of a non US 1976 FJ40. This way the next owner someday can make sense of it.

 

[Ackcruisers]

@fjwagon @3_puppies @Dizzy...Since the initial delivery (and disappointment) of receiving my 1976 FJ40 from Colombia (bought at auction) I've mapped out most of the issues and am tackling them one at a time. The wiring is the first. The advice of @whitey45 was taken and the truck is getting a factory spec 1976 wiring harness with all the correct connectors, switches color matched wires etc... Here are a few pictures of my progress and special thanks to @Wadesters @Coolerman and @ToyotaMatt for the help along the way. Who ever gets this truck in the future will be happy.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Awesome !

looks very through ..........

only ,RED flag i so see it the old rusty CIG lighter assy , the male bullets get all

bent and corroded , and the main housings get rusty bad ,

once everything is installed , there a MOTHER to get to and swap out , because

up high center of dash location ........

consider a new kit , and NEW harness side ground female spade and the green

YAZAKI silicon female Bullet connector too .........

its not worth taking the chance ........


- also , make sure you run the updated , late model , 5th ground wires , and

use 1/8" Stainless steel pop-rivits , or aluminum to each rear tail lamps like we

talked about earlier .., then join grounds and home run up front to near

battery known good solid ground points junctions ,



- at this same time point , if need be , splice your ground , and T or branch

it , in other words , a dedicated ground wire to the fuel tank sender , flange ,

via ring terminal , to one of the 5 Phillips head 5mm pan heads , you will now

have a fully polarized , and 100% reliable sender ground signal at all times ,

i would bet $ , you dont have a reliable one now , unless you already , found

that common , missed step from columbia ?






- use color code" WHITE w / black tracer stripe " ,16 gauge , for best results

, tinned copper or Brass solid Ring terminals only , NO PEP BOYZ Crap here



- you scored on the first gen. OEM KOITO"s rear tail lamp NOS too, btw ..........!

there a SOLID investment.........



.

if u need help ,with this simple but criticality important step , dont hesitate to

call my shop hot -line anytime.......



but again , Dam Nice Work brother ,............

 

[lelandEOD]

Hell yes, I like it. The way you are tackling the problem is the only way to do it right. Good job!

 

[78Cruzr]

- also , make sure you run the updated , late model , 5th ground wires , and

use 1/8" Stainless steel pop-rivits , or aluminum to each rear tail lamps like we

talked about earlier .., then join grounds and home run up front to near

battery known good solid ground points junctions ,

Do you have any pics, additional details, or a thread on this?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Do you have any pics, additional details, or a thread on this?

, Possibly yes ..

i wrote a very High Tech Doctrine , on the who connector topic on tail lamps

last year , let me dig it up and post the link here soon , give me a few minutes to

find it again ....


stand by ...