1976 FJ40 BUILDUP - Chief $*itty Pants

[4x4 Station Wagon]

First off sorry about the pics I felt bad for posting so many pics so I changed them to a smaller gif file and lets just say that didn't work so well.... As for these pictures I threw an angle guage on there and my frame was negative 1.5 degrees and my box was positive 8 degrees so using the two measurements I am looking at about 9.5 degrees if anyone has a guage handy and could check theirs to see what is actually working vs. my hopes
Thanks

 

[orangefj45]

i have both arms, one that's perfectly flat and one that's got about 1" drop. i think the laterr will be a better choice for your rig.

i'll try to bring them home tomorrow so i can post some pics and take some measurements for ya.

 

[slickrock]

The longer arm should make things faster not slower. Shorter arm should slow it down and increase the leverage a little.

Are you going to have any trouble clearing the radiator?

Take alook at my post on the 60 series steering I put in. Mine is in the same place and I have full motion of my steering without hitting anything at flex and I did not need to touch my radiator.

 

[slickrock]

here is the link with pictures: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...ring-done-thanks-all-helped-free-ujoints.html

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

Thanks! Your pics were helpful. I think OrangeFJ and Bret are right on the flat pitman arm for my application since i have my box tilted a little. If I could do it again i would space the box out 3/8". I truly believe that would be the magic number when trying to juggle manifold clearance, shock tower clearance, radiator support clearance, and tire clearance. I think I would have only had to oblong my radiator support to frame holes to make the radiator support clear. I suppose i still could very easily and may have to before it is over. I to similar to Bret have placed or am planning to place my engine to the driver side ( i think i mocked it in at 3/4" ) and may be a tight fit on the exhaust manifolds. I plan to get my engine bolted together and slapped up to the tranny/t-case so i can put it on the frame for the last time. At that time I should know for sure on the manifold clearance. ????

 

[Bret]

Truly the box spacing spacing shouldn't be a significant issue for the manifold clearance. Maybe only 1/4" either way at the manifold. The placement is more for the radiator and shock tower. There are a couple options folks have used for steering shafts (solid 3/4" vs. 1" tube etc.). Lots of options with radiator placement, going with mech fan?

Looking at your pics your front spring hangar is closer to the frame than mine is. Any way to test the front clearance with your springs and pitman arm? May have to extend the bump stop on that side.

Do you have your PS pump etc. figured out yet?

 

[Bret]

I went back through and re-read your build. A picture is worth a 1000 words so this one should give you an idea of how mine ended up. I used a Downey bellhousing with a H55 and the shifter is pretty close to the stock hole, with the H42 that should put it close to the heater. It has a short H20 pump and likes to burn the boots on plugs 5 & 6 so use a heat shield or something to protect the wires on yours. Autozone won't warranty the expensive wires

I kept the stock steering column and the piece I cut off the manifold was a square plug that screwed into the manifold at the "Y" towards the rear.

 

[AKcruiserfreak]

Looks like progress is being made! Keep up the good work.

TK

 

[orangefj45]

i have a flat pitman and one with about 1" offset. the "clocking" is slightly different; the 4 large splines are located at different angles.

maybe i should send you both of these, you try them out and send them both back along with the TRE. then i'll ream out the one you want to use and will send it back with the TRE.

i think this might be the safest way top avoid doing more work than required.

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

Truly the box spacing spacing shouldn't be a significant issue for the manifold clearance. Maybe only 1/4" either way at the manifold. The placement is more for the radiator and shock tower. There are a couple options folks have used for steering shafts (solid 3/4" vs. 1" tube etc.). Lots of options with radiator placement, going with mech fan?

Manifold clearance - Ok copy on the screw in plugs I will quit worrying about the manifold clearance. I was thinking 3/4 solid. As for radiator placement I see what you are saying and i think i am golden. I was hoping for a mech fan and plan to move radiator forward 1" when i redrill the holes pending once the motor is sitting in and i can ensure it would be right.

with the H42 that should put it close to the heater.

I am hoping to give it a little bend and hopefully clear. If not it looked like I had an option to maybe use the top off a different tranny that apparently worked and moved the shifter back a little. (Cant remember which tranny that was right now)

likes to burn the boots on plugs 5 & 6 so use a heat shield or something to protect the wires on yours.

Will do thanks!!

maybe i should send you both of these, you try them out and send them both back along with the TRE. then i'll ream out the one you want to use and will send it back with the TRE.

Your Awesome!!! I believe i still have your address. Tonight when i get home i will pm you with my address and paypal.

i think this might be the safest way top avoid doing more work than required.

The way I have been doing things so far i almost hate to do something smart now!!!!


Thanks to all I think this has this problem nearly solved. Bret I am planning to just go with the good old sag pump with the thinking parts are everywhere or better yet the whole thing is cheap with a core....

 

[orangefj45]

I am planning to just go with the good old sag pump with the thinking parts are everywhere or better yet the whole thing is cheap with a core....

not a bad idea. that way you can run the stock scout ps hoses as well which will be the cheapest way to handle the hoses. it'll also be easy to replace them should the need arise. bolt a scout ps pump in there and be done with it.

 

[orangefj45]

Tonight when i get home i will pm you with my address and paypal.

can you do me a favor and pm me ths info asap? i need to go to the post office this afternoon.

 

[slickrock]

Thanks! Your pics were helpful. I think OrangeFJ and Bret are right on the flat pitman arm for my application since i have my box tilted a little. If I could do it again i would space the box out 3/8". I truly believe that would be the magic number when trying to juggle manifold clearance, shock tower clearance, radiator support clearance, and tire clearance. I think I would have only had to oblong my radiator support to frame holes to make the radiator support clear. I suppose i still could very easily and may have to before it is over. I to similar to Bret have placed or am planning to place my engine to the driver side ( i think i mocked it in at 3/4" ) and may be a tight fit on the exhaust manifolds. I plan to get my engine bolted together and slapped up to the tranny/t-case so i can put it on the frame for the last time. At that time I should know for sure on the manifold clearance. ????

Mine is spaced 1/2" out. I did flip my springs so I had ot loose my Ford Shcok tower on that side and replaced it with some round stock the same length. That is about the only modification I needed to make that was there before I started.

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

Mine is spaced 1/2" out. I did flip my springs so I had ot loose my Ford Shcok tower on that side and replaced it with some round stock the same length. That is about the only modification I needed to make that was there before I started.

I saw several posts where they to had spaced out 1/2" and were working great however a couple had mentioned tire rubbing with large tires.... Are you having any problems? It sounds like Bret is close but OK

can you do me a favor and pm me ths info asap? i need to go to the post office this afternoon.

Crud sorry about that I hit send and ran out the door for work tosmorning. I will send it right now so you can be ready for next time. Thanks OrangeFJ

On a good note the cool cruisers rear sill showed up today and I am glad i paid the extra money vs. ebay it is very nice (like factory)

EDIT - ORANGEFJ PM and paypal sent - thanks

bolt a scout ps pump in there and be done with it.

Done deal will do!! Lesson learned though so i should ask for a scout sag power steering pump rather than just a sag pump..... Thanks

 

[slickrock]

I saw several posts where they to had spaced out 1/2" and were working great however a couple had mentioned tire rubbing with large tires.... Are you having any problems? It sounds like Bret is close but OK




Crud sorry about that I hit send and ran out the door for work tosmorning. I will send it right now so you can be ready for next time. Thanks OrangeFJ

On a good note the cool cruisers rear sill showed up today and I am glad i paid the extra money vs. ebay it is very nice (like factory)

EDIT - ORANGEFJ PM and paypal sent - thanks


Done deal will do!! Lesson learned though so i should ask for a scout sag power steering pump rather than just a sag pump..... Thanks

I haven't had any problems with 35s or 37s rubbing. My 35s are at 2" backspacing and the 37s are right at 3.5" backspacing.

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

Thanks Slickrock
For anyone that finds this thread down the road while searching scout box installation at this point my flush to frame mount is not guaranteed to be trouble free so if i was to do it again i would still tube the frame with the plan to run bolts clear through (not a must just my preference it works great to tap the holes also) with nuts but i would have spaced the box off the frame between 3/8" and 1/2" similar to what both Slickrock and Bret's pics show since it is proven to work! I would do this simply to minimize how far I have to move the radiator support over to-wards the passenger side but at this point i think i will give it a try since it will be simple to scab a plate in later before the shock hoop is built and others have seemed to move the radiator over with no problems.

OrangeFJ has two pitman arms coming my way to try out and I will take pics of both and post for comparison sake.

The thing that has kept me curious from the beginning is if i will get away with being able to snake my PTO shaft by the advanced adapter housing, the steering box, the steering shaft, the exhaust, and whatever else is going to fowl me in hopes to run my PTO winch. If not it is no big deal i will throw an electric on however I have been crossing my fingers from the beginning........ Probably a

 

[orangefj45]

OrangeFJ has two pitman arms coming my way to try out and I will take pics of both and post for comparison sake.

who's this ORANGEFJ guy you're talking about?!

JK

arms are in the mail.........

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

I can't type smoking fast if I throw numbers in!!!

Orangefj45 see now dang it that took twice as long!!

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

I started on the rear sill today! Just for the record it was not very fun!! I started with a drill bit trying to drill the spot welds out...... Next I gave up and used the die grinder and ground the spot welds down.... MUCH BETTER!! I haven't searched yet but i dont remember any posts off the top of my head and I wanted to catch people before they went to bed.

When I got the sill cut off, the inner support was not any better. I cut out a further section of my tub due to rust so i basically have most of the support free now. I want to remove that rear inner support and replace it with a new one or ........ ??? Use 2x2 box with a section of 2" x 1/4" flat bar placed offset on the top of the box, then weld the sides of the support where they curve around the tub back to the box... ?? I would still want to remove the curved sides of the inner support and rust treat them and especially between the metal....

I am headed to cool cruisers right now to see if they sell the support.

Thanks in advance

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

WOW!! Crud I just got back from cool cruisers and they do have them as a complete sill kit.... They are 330.00 including the rear sill which i have already purchased from them by itself for I think around 130.00 so even if I can con them into selling me just the inner support I am guessing it would be around 200.00 Wow I better get to thinking of a way to whip one up! Can anyone remember a build or a link that had showed a good game plan?