1976 FJ40 BUILDUP - Chief $*itty Pants

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@4x4 Station Wagon This is a beautiful 40! Planning to install the fenders or leave them off for that aggressive look? I restored a '75 chevy in high school, did all the body work and paint myself. It was the same color. Seeing your build really makes me miss that old truck! The crappy part of doing all the work yourself, is you know all of the little imperfections and also know you are to blame. It got to the point where I couldn't enjoy the truck because of all the small things that bothered me so I just offed it. Sold this thing in 2015 for $4500 :bigtears::bigtears::bigtears:

Thanks for sharing your build, I admire the persistance as it looks like it's been a long road! Look forward to seeing you enjoy the fruits of your labor soon.

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Nice rigs! Yes on knowing every imperfection!! I too first restored a 78 ford 1/2 ton short box but when I inherited the FJ40 I knew I couldnt have two yard ornaments. I am back and forth on the fenders. I saved the running boards and the cut fenders and have always planned to bend some tube fenders up but that will be a project after I finish the top!
Thanks for the appreciation!
 
Couple fun bugs to work out. First when I put the roller tipped rockers on I added guide plates because they were non self aligning. Well yep I didnt realize at that point the head guide holes must be machined so the rods were rubbing the guide plates. Luckily I had a valve ticking due to being out of adjustment so I caught it right away. I am now back to the non roller tipped.

Next my front brakes were locking up and getting HOT so I replaced both calipers and the back were already new (ok old now but 0 miles). Now all are heating/locking up. I have a newer toyota booster and master 15/16 bore that has never been apart so the rod adjustment should be fine. I am thinking the return hole is clogged in the master. It is hunting season but that is the gremlin I am picking away at.

Last week I installed the new parts I screen shotted above except the dang antenna wasnt the same as my single hole which is actually in an odd location
 
For anyone that comes across this the brakes were dragging due to master cylinder. I played around adjusting the rod between the booster and master cylinder with zero progress. I then replaced the master and problem solved.
It is a long and cruddy story but the 383 stroker just got a new cam and roller rockers. Recently purchased a new gauge cluster, new headlights with turn signal built in, behind the manifold plug wire holders as well as a few other small items.
Next up the exhaust dumps out the rear and the exhaust fumes are swirling and entering the cab while driving. That has to be corrected soon
 
For anyone that comes across this the brakes were dragging due to master cylinder. I played around adjusting the rod between the booster and master cylinder with zero progress. I then replaced the master and problem solved.
It is a long and cruddy story but the 383 stroker just got a new cam and roller rockers. Recently purchased a new gauge cluster, new headlights with turn signal built in, behind the manifold plug wire holders as well as a few other small items.
Next up the exhaust dumps out the rear and the exhaust fumes are swirling and entering the cab while driving. That has to be corrected soon
I’m curious what you plan to do with the exhaust fumes. I have a 327 V8 and also have exhaust fumes coming back.
 
I’m curious what you plan to do with the exhaust fumes. I have a 327 V8 and also have exhaust fumes coming back.
Where’s your exhaust come out? Consensus seems to be out the side behind the rear tires is the best idea. This is where I have mine (350 now 5.3) and I get zero exhaust fumes topless.
 
Where’s your exhaust come out? Consensus seems to be out the side behind the rear tires is the best idea. This is where I have mine (350 now 5.3) and I get zero exhaust fumes topless.
I have dual exhaust, each exiting behind the rear wheels at a 90deg.
 
Where’s your exhaust come out? Consensus seems to be out the side behind the rear tires is the best idea. This is where I have mine (350 now 5.3) and I get zero exhaust fumes topless.
One single out the back at a down angle.
I’m curious what you plan to do with the exhaust fumes. I have a 327 V8 and also have exhaust fumes coming back.
I was told about drilling a hole through the exhaust near the tip and placing a bolt through the pipe. It is said to change the swirl but I have had zero time to research if that is a legit thing
 
I have exhausted (pun) way too much time on trying to figure out how to make the new gauge cluster work. I am specifically on the existing 30 amp gauge and now the 50 amp non internal shunt gauge. I have read a ton and fully understand how the white wire takes all of the current to the dash and through the 30 amp gauge and how the new 50 is not intended to take that load and will fry. I have seen all of the remove the white wire or add a fusible link at battery etc etc but. Why will purchasing a 50 amp shunt 50 or 75 mh or mz i forget which not work to simply hook up at the white wires where they used to connect to the 30 amp cluster gauge and then run wires off of the shunt to the new 50 amp gauge??? I know I am missing something as it seems to simple. I understand that the load would still come into the cab to the dash as it has for over 40 years. Any help is appreciated thanks
 
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Still waiting for the mph decal alomg with posted in another thread hoping to figure our the possibility of external shunt to keep 50 amp gauge from going up in smoke
 

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