Builds 1974 HZJ40 Build (1 Viewer)

[The Eradicator]

What temperature is the 1HZ supposed to run at? Like, from the FSM?

The FSM doesn't give an operating range, but does say it will boil over at 230-248. Thermostat begins opening at 169 and should be 10mm open by 194.

 

[davegonz]

Here's another thought. Try running without the air filter housing. I'm wondering if it's not flowing enough air and making your engine run hot?

 

[The Eradicator]

Here's another thought. Try running without the air filter housing. I'm wondering if it's not flowing enough air and making your engine run hot?

I'll give it a shot. Currently, it is running a cheap little k&n filter because I'm still waiting on a part to hook up the Donaldson housing.

 

[The Eradicator]

I picked it up from the exhaust shop today. @davegonz I think you were on to something with the air filter and fan clutch ideas. With the exhaust dumping out the back, I noticed that it was puffing some black smoke while maintaining 70 mph. I pulled the filter off for a few minutes and it only smoked under heavy acceleration and ran ~ 5 degrees cooler. The Donaldson filter has much more surface area, so hopefully it is less restrictive.

That being said, I think that the main problem is the fan clutch. With the engine at 190, I stuck my hand in the blade and there was almost no resistance. I'll get it hotter and try again tomorrow. After reading about the problems that 80 series people have with new fan clutches and the mods they do, I picked up some heavier oil for it and will adjust the engagement temperature when I pull the radiator (probably Thursday).

 

[The Eradicator]

This doesn't seem right...


Also, it's legal now.

 

[davegonz]

Congrats!

 

[davegonz]

I have a new 1HZ fan clutch that I bought off of Kurt that I might not use. I didn't use it because the old one on the engine works fine. Do you want to try it out? You can borrow it to test or buy it for what I paid.

Let me know.

 

[The Eradicator]

Thanks for the offer; I might take you up on it if modifying this one doesn't work out. I am going to pull it and let the fluid drain tonight so that it will be ready when the radiator arrives.

 

[davegonz]

Sounds good. Just let me know.

 

[The Eradicator]

Well, this explains some things. The new fan clutch, which I purchased from Wayne, is not an Aisin unit. I'm not sure who made it, the only marking is "made in Japan."
The original fan clutch is draining now. I'll put in some new 10,000 cst fluid, check the engagement temperature, and run it.

 

[davegonz]

Did you get it back together?

 

[The Eradicator]

Did you get it back together?

Yep, the fan clutch took care of it. Over the weekend I plumbed the intake and worked on the soft top bows.

T-bolt clamp is on the way to replace the screw clamp.

The real steel bow kit required a few modifications. The most significant was cutting and bending the door frames inward at the top to make the late style doors work.

The bows and tailgate went in for powder coating this morning. Before Saturday I need to:
Dial in the rear brake pressure
Tune the CB
Mount fire extinguisher
Get the wiper motor working on low speed
Reinstall tailgate and top
Change diff oil
Calibrate fuel gauge

 

[The Eradicator]

 

[davegonz]

So how do you like the 1HZ performance? I'm thinking of putting one into my 1977 FJ40. Does it need to be turbo'd?

 

[pigmony]

Got any closer photos of your bike rack setup? I need to do something for my 40 real soon.

 

[The Eradicator]

So how do you like the 1HZ performance? I'm thinking of putting one into my 1977 FJ40. Does it need to be turbo'd?

Sorry it has taken so long to respond. It's been a busy month. The power isn't bad; it keeps up with traffic around here and will do 70 without a problem. On real mountain passes, it is quicker than the semis, but still spends most of the time in the slow lane. The NA 1HZ is adequate, but if you want a fun amount of power, turbo it or go LS.

Got any closer photos of your bike rack setup? I need to do something for my 40 real soon.

Afraid not, sorry. The rack is a Kuat NV Base. It's a really tight fit with the spare on the back. I'd recommend taking your vehicle and bike into your local bike shop and test fitting a rack before buying.

Anyways, here is some video and a few pictures.

 

[lelandEOD]

How'd you go about routing the exhaust? What size tubing did you use, did you keep it inside the frame rails, etc? Also, did you terminate it before the rear wheel or out back?

 

[The Eradicator]

How'd you go about routing the exhaust? What size tubing did you use, did you keep it inside the frame rails, etc? Also, did you terminate it before the rear wheel or out back?

Paging @Bydge - get the man some pictures.

IIRC, it is 2 3/4" tube, ran inside the frame until the tailpipe, and I think it went over the vacuum 4x4 actuator. It was dumping out the back, but fumes were rolling into the cab (might still be, I'm not sure if dad has had it changed yet), so side exit behind the rear axle would be the way to go, IMO.

 

[lelandEOD]

Yes, photos please! I’m getting close to the exhaust project and am struggling to figure out how I’m going to squeeze it past the x-fer case and keep it tucked above the frame rail as it passes the frame torque tube. Not to mention the rear axle and aux. tank. Yeesh...

 

[Will Van]

The past couple of weeks have involved quite a bit of research and sourcing of parts, so I haven't been able to get as much done on the vehicle. Here is the valve that will operate the vacuum shift 4x4. This will panel mounted to the dash in one of the stock switch locations. I would like to 3D print a custom knob for it, but probably won't have time; the truck needs to be finished by August for the solid axle summit.
View attachment 1997312

This was tough to find: the female connector housing for the injection pump wiring. Amayama was the only place that showed it as available and, surprisingly, they actually had it. Oftentimes, obscure parts like this will show up as available online when they really aren't.
View attachment 1997314

Here is a panel for some electrical bits. Since the battery will be in the rear, the posts serve as a branch off point for the electrical system, as well as an easy jumper location. The high amp circuits will be handled by those three breakers. Constant power fuses and nearly all of the relays will be housed in the Littelfuse PDM seen here.
View attachment 1997313

Controller for the instrument cluster and diesel tach interface mounted above driver's kick vent. The stock wiring harness is entirely trashed, so I will be building one from scratch. I could find a decent used one, but you would still be dealing with 40 year old parts. This way everything will be contained in one harness; no separate looms for all of the extras. So, I've been spending some money with Waytek, Mouser, Digi-Key, Corsa Technic, Eastern Beaver, and Coolerman.
View attachment 1997317

Still waiting on intake hoses. The elbow is back-ordered, so it will be early-mid next month before I can wrap that up.
View attachment 1997315

Any pics of how/where you mounted the battery?

Edit: Also just moar pics in general. That truck is sweet!