1972 FJ40 OEM Power Steering Conversion (1 Viewer)

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Jdc1

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We have finally accumulated all of the parts neccessary for the power steering conversion on the 12/71 40. The goal for this build is stock appearance and the biggest hurdle is clearance for the power steering pump under the early aircleaner. Trying to stay with the 2f was futile. I sourced a minitruck pump with remote reservoir similar to @Coolerman s build. After speaking with a few 40 experts, i decided on a saginaw pump mounted in a low bracket. The pulley, pump and bracket were sourced from Marks Offroad. I sourced the firewall anchor and column bushings from @cruiseroutfitters . West Texas Offroad is going to be taking the guts from a straight axle pickup and installing into the OEM box. This allows the stock steering box pedestal to be used.

OEM Steering box
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Bushings/Bearing and Anchor

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Pump and bracket

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My question for the forum is, If i weld the outer column housing to the anchor and it is bolted to the firewall, how much of the outer housing needs to come through the firewall? I am planning on just enough to mount the the bearing retainer to the inner shaft.

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You will need to mount your steering gear, and then figure the column length with the associated rag joints into the mix after the steering gear and pedestal are mounted.
 
You will need to mount your steering gear, and then figure the column length with the associated rag joints into the mix after the steering gear and pedestal are mounted.

Thanks Poser. Plan of attack is to leave the inner shaft as long as possible until everything is mounted up. I have a weld on rag joint mount for the end of the inner shaft. Does it matter how long the outer housing is?
 
What matters is maintaining the gap between the '71 steering wheel and the '71 turn signal switch. That gap is fixed by the stock box, which you are eliminating. And you should not plan on having the rag joint perform part of that function.

Mark
 
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Saginaw pump is in place. Marks bracket is made for an FJ40 2F. I had to enlarge the mounting holes in the base to allow it to slide back far enough to ensure belt alignment on the rear water pump pulley.

I used a Gates TR22455 19/32" x 46 1/8" belt.

West TX Offroad built the OEM box w/ minitruck internals. They recommended using AN-6 for pressure line using Saginaw and Custom box side adaptors.

More updates once the tub comes back from paint.

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Man that looks like its going to be a great set up.
 
How did it work out? Looking to do this myself on 70 model and could use the tips. Can you share where you sourced the
Bushing/Bearing and Anchor parts? Thanks
 
How did it work out? Looking to do this myself on 70 model and could use the tips. Can you share where you sourced the
Bushing/Bearing and Anchor parts? Thanks

I’ve been meaning to update this this thread for awhile but wanted to wait till I have it running so I could post driving impressions.

The bearing and anchor points were sourced from Cruiser Outfitters.

I cut the original steering shaft off just above the steering box and had the rag joint adaptor and bearing welded to the inner shaft. The outer shaft will slide over the bearing.

I took the fittings to Parker and had them make the hoses.

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Nice looks great, thanks for the tip and pics I'll call Kurt to order the parts. Funny my brother works for Parker out of Houston he's made me some oil bath lines before that were 1st class really over kill for what I needed but they looked great and certainly helped me out. Yours came out great as well (Y)
 
Did you mount alternator to passenger side? My alternator is mounted where your Saginaw pump is. I’d like to do the same flip.
 
2F alternator brackets and firewall supports are available in Burbank too. ;)
 
Did you mount alternator to passenger side? My alternator is mounted where your Saginaw pump is. I’d like to do the same flip.

I am using a 2F out of a 1985 FJ60, the alt is on the pass side. Normally it would have had the air pump and power steering pump on the drivers side but I wanted to use the 1F air cleaner which takes up a lot of space.
 
I am using a 2F out of a 1985 FJ60, the alt is on the pass side. Normally it would have had the air pump and power steering pump on the drivers side but I wanted to use the 1F air cleaner which takes up a lot of space.
I have a 75’ 2F with a 1F air cleaner as well so in the same boat.
 
@Jdc1
Can you post pics of the completed firewall plate and some details on the install of the bushing and bearing?
Also, how did you address Mark's @65swb45 comment about the turn signal?
 
@Jdc1
Can you post pics of the completed firewall plate and some details on the install of the bushing and bearing?
Also, how did you address Mark's @65swb45 comment about the turn signal?
I don’t have the 40 handy for pics, I’ll try to remember to grab some the next time I am working on it. We don’t have any miles on the truck as it is still being built.

The bearing between the outer and inner columns was carefully tack welded to the outer column. As of right now, it is anchored at the dash and passes through the firewall just like stock. I might end up reworking it as there was a breakdown in communication. The way it is now is super solid, there isn’t any up and down movement on the inner column as the rag joint is pretty rigid. I am unhappy with the old rubber bushing and will address marks concern when I figure out what to do.
 
@Jdc1 Thanks for the pics. Is the firewall plate behind the rubber dust boot and two piece plate?

The bearing is in the end of the outer column tube above the rag joint, correct? Did you use the bushing?

Do you know if the 73 steering shaft with rag joint can be used instead of cutting the 72 shaft?
 
@Jdc1 Thanks for the pics. Is the firewall plate behind the rubber dust boot and two piece plate?

The bearing is in the end of the outer column tube above the rag joint, correct? Did you use the bushing?

Do you know if the 73 steering shaft with rag joint can be used instead of cutting the 72 shaft?

There isn’t a firewall plate. We might revisit and rework(communication mixup). I think the plate would fit behind the dust cover. The bearing is in the end of the outer tube, no bushing.

I cut my steering shaft because the box was in pretty bad shape. The 73 uses the newer style where the outer housing anchors to a pocket in the firewall, I’m not sure if it would drop in. Another option would be to use the firewall plate, keep the outer column housing short and use universal joints and d shaft, similar to a shorter Saginaw conversion.

The 72 uses a 33 spline steering wheel, which started in 70(?). If you source a donor and it’s not the right spline count, your 72 wheel won’t fit.
 

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