1971 FJ40 - PNW Blue Patina (2 Viewers)

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Quick update. I had the rear quarters and sill replaced. Tried to keep as much of the original sheet metal as possible and just replace the major rot. Didn't want to get too far down the rabbit hole in bodywork otherwise, I feel like it would quickly spiral.


Initial Cutting
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Panels Welded In:

Used the quarters and rear sill from Real Steel Cruiser Parts. Took a few weeks from order to get in, but they were well made parts.
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Decided to delete the body-mounted spare mount while working on this.
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Quick Primer Coat: Need to figure out the best way to blend in the new paint with the old. The idea is to just take a hinge to an auto paint store and have them mix up a rattle can and do my best to blend it in.
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Let me know if you go the rattle can route and how it works. I need to do similar in the near future for my trans tunnel. I know someone else did the same with that blue and the pics look great.

Looking good by the way!
 
Also added a stop to the swing out. This was stopped by the tire hitting the body before and when parked off-angle was a pain to keep open or closed.
I'd planned on having the locking holes leading edge chamfered so it would auto-stop when opened. Considered machining an aluminum part with that chamfer feature so wouldn't see the paint scratches on the pin sliding.

In the end, quick and simple won out. I just keep the pin locked up and manually lower it if I need to lock out the swing arm.

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Also added a stop to the swing out. This was stopped by the tire hitting the body before and when parked off-angle was a pain to keep open or closed.
I'd planned on having the locking holes leading edge chamfered so it would auto-stop when opened. Considered machining an aluminum part with that chamfer feature so wouldn't see the paint scratches on the pin sliding.

In the end, quick and simple won out. I just keep the pin locked up and manually lower it if I need to lock out the swing arm.

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Very nice job!
 
Updated my rear hatch struts to have hidden gas struts. This means the rear hatch auto-opens now like a modern car. A great improvement and relatively easy to do.

I tried two versions of the struts. 60lb struts and 50lb struts. The 60lb version opens very snappily but is a bit hard to push down. The 50lbs take a half-second longer to open, but is much nicer to close. Had I not tried the 60lber I wouldn't have noticed. I'm keeping the 50lb struts.

For under $40s and less than an hour of your time. Totally worth the if you haven't done it yet. 1.5 banana job.

Shock Strut Specs:

JR Products GSNI-5200-50 ($15.47 on Amazon)​

Extended 17 Inches Compressed 9.66 Inches. Stroke 7.34 Inches.
Rod Diameter 6mm. Tube Diameter 15mm & Force (Pounds) 50 .


To install. Take apart your strut. Remove the spring and plastic spacer. I then took that plastic spacer tapped them M6 and cut them down to fit the correct length of the tube. You can also just shave the current ends to fit in the tube if you find that easier. Install them and close the strut back up. Look remains stock.
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This is AMAZING!!! Thank You soooo much! I am TOTALLY going to do this! Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!!!
 
Few more changes have been happening slowly.

The first was relocating my stereo from the glove box to the center console. Old Setup was a clean install. But impossible to change while driving. Always had to use the Bluetooth app to change the volume. Much easier to access now and can get back the glove box space. I went with the Tuffy Security Products TFY013-01 ($270) and fit perfectly between the two seats.


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New
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If someone has a 1971 FJ40 with the split bench seat, AND they do NOT want to cut the dash or any other parts (like the doors), what would everyone recommend to someone that LOVES good sound but does not want to cut up their FJ40???
 
I put a shelf across the front next to the wiper motor in my 72. I also stuck one across the back in front of the ambulance doors on the 76 hardtop it came with. The boards are mahogany - they were part of the crate a wrecked Huey from South America was shipped up here for repair - they ran it out of fuel over the jungle.
 
If someone has a 1971 FJ40 with the split bench seat, AND they do NOT want to cut the dash or any other parts (like the doors), what would everyone recommend to someone that LOVES good sound but does not want to cut up their FJ40???
Good sound or just sound? Could do a fully wireless Bluetooth setup where everything is controlled via a phone. Like Bluetooth Audio System - Out of Sight Audio - https://outofsightaudio.com/

Or go with something like this. Cant speak to the quality of sound though. For Sale - Bluetooth Stereo 100% Hidden, only takes up the space of a dash knob! (Custom knob included) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bluetooth-stereo-100-hidden-only-takes-up-the-space-of-a-dash-knob-custom-knob-included.1264367/

Or do what the PO of mine did and use a insert in the glovebox. Hard to reach yourself, but keeps the dash in tact.
 
Good sound or just sound? Could do a fully wireless Bluetooth setup where everything is controlled via a phone. Like Bluetooth Audio System - Out of Sight Audio - https://outofsightaudio.com/

Or go with something like this. Cant speak to the quality of sound though. For Sale - Bluetooth Stereo 100% Hidden, only takes up the space of a dash knob! (Custom knob included) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bluetooth-stereo-100-hidden-only-takes-up-the-space-of-a-dash-knob-custom-knob-included.1264367/

Or do what the PO of mine did and use a insert in the glovebox. Hard to reach yourself, but keeps the dash in tact.

Thank you. When I sold my Gen 3 4Runner recently I kept the amp and subwoofer to use in the FJ40. I just need to figure everything else out. Here in Florida where you can swim on Christmas day, I've thought about doing a heater delete (keep all the components in case my son wants to put the heater back in someday when it's his), and I could build a console where the front heater currently it, and put a stereo there.
 
You might try a Bluetooth sound bar made for a UTV. You can just control it with your phone. No need to cut anything.
 

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