1970 Build...this outta be fun...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 19, 2019
Threads
63
Messages
330
Location
BOISE, ID
So I just picked up my first 1970 FJ40 about a month ago and like most of you I'm pretty excited...and nervous about it. I had been looking for a couple years and came across one local that I jumped on. To be honest, I think I got a decent deal/rig but time will tell I guess. Either way, it's mine now so too late to worry about it. I have spent countless hours on this site and others trying to learn as much as I can and it's amazing how much I don't know. For a basic vehicle there is a lot of knowledge out there. The other thing that's amazing is what a community there is around these things...I have had people I've never met help me out through email, call text etc. Kinda cool being a part of it. Well, here is where I'm at...and I welcome any and all feedback and opinions.

THE TRUCK:
1970 FJ40 - mostly original as far as I can tell.
Spring Green but horribly repainted (yes, with a paintbrush inside)
Original motor/tranny, etc. - Motor/tranny/transfer were rebuilt and/or run through according to PO.
4 wheel discs
PO replaced carb, ignition/wires, serviced, repacked etc
Body hasn't been hacked up luckily so all intact
Rust is fairly minimal but a little on passenger side below that I can see (fingers crossed)


THE PLAN:
Get it back to mostly stock except for a 2.5" lift.
Put OEM 15" wheels/caps and some 33x10.5
Was hoping to get down to the original paint but that not going to work so will get body/paint done in spring green
Orange interior I think (not sure the actual color name)
Get electrical sorted and everything working...most is already now but the wiring looks like a mess
I drive it at least once a day and I want to keep it that way for the most part throughout this build...not planning

FJ.jpg
 
Got the grinder out to see if I could get the bumper off that the PO welded to the cross member. Unfortunately it’s not budging. Thinking maybe I’m going to need someone to torch it off? I assume that will damage my cross member.
01F36929-D3B1-4BE2-BB05-4B5DE7AC05E3.jpeg

2B216279-71F0-49B8-85C5-2609E8685A29.jpeg
 
Is your cutting disc not able reach all of the the weld? You could ditch the guard and install a bigger disc. Obviously much more dangerous😬.
 
I was trying to be conservative so I don’t damage the crossmember. There are actually pieces of steel sandwiched between the bumper and cross member...not sure how/if it’s connected to the bumper so was hoping to cut the weld between the two and if I could get the bumper off then deal with that steel. What it looks like is they used those flat pieces of steel to bump out the bumper enough to clear the rivets on the crossmember. If I try it again I will have to try and cut the weld at the cross member which I’m sure will do some damage
 
So I decided to take the wire wheel to the body to see what was hiding under that bad paint job. Can I get your guys’ thoughts? I was thinking it looked pretty good since I could still see original paint in what are usually bad spots. Looks like some bondo on the rear quarter but no damage since underneath is all original and no damage.
179A6966-1635-4E9D-899D-E48D9B1E1BA1.jpeg

786C5A5E-B766-41A6-8B8B-C5F97A165A2B.jpeg
035D69D6-5A28-4B82-8B41-8E67663AC22B.jpeg
 
I finally got my electrical issues figured out. A new alternator was the culprit. Here is my PSA for the day...if you take your cruiser to O’Reillys etc. to have the VR checked make sure you try it several times. The last two times I was in there they tested it and the VR was “off” so showed it as faulty. I’m
I’m guessing this might be fairly common knowledge but new to me.

So I bought this 40 because it looked like it was in good shape, no cutting on body, minimal rust and mostly original. I’ve always kind of been into classic cars most if my life (my first car was a 67 Camaro RS...wish I still had that one!) so have a decent idea about what’s good/bad, but I’ve never had any experience with Toyota’s so I’m kind of in the dark here.

I’ve been breaking down the 40 for the last couple weeks whenever I can get some time. It’s going into body/paint soon so taking it down to the tub. Was nervous about what I’d find when I started taking it apart but fired up about what I see...you guys fell free to tell me your thoughts. There is almost no rust in places I was expecting it. The front floorboards are going to be replaced along with below the passenger door. Outside of those I think I’m in good shape. I would assume this would be a good candidate for a frame off...but just not in the cards right now. I want to get this thing painted and back together so I can enjoy it. As much as I’d like to get at the frame to clean and paint I just don’t think it’s the time. Couple more days of tear down and it’s off.
744AFC27-B4FC-48A1-AE83-100C0F31627D.jpeg

1E1A22A2-3C1F-417F-B66A-BF029372EA4D.jpeg
72022D1B-FC02-4E62-A8F2-A63C331400A5.jpeg
0E4EAE5F-972B-43EF-8AB2-EEAB06750812.jpeg
938445FE-799F-4748-A3B5-A8C69B0277D0.jpeg
 
1. I noticed the body has a rear back-up light, I thought those did not come out until 1972 ???.
2. I'm thinking I'd want to move that front winch rearward so that I wouldn't have sooooo much front-end over-hang, better approach angle.
3. I'm quite sure you will soon discover that those front "load leveler" shocks have the front-end double spring loaded, and the valving works 90% in the wrong direction, soooo I see Bilsteins in your future.
 
Reverse light started 9/67. My first FJ40 is a 9/67 and had the reverse light in the tub.
I'm not the expert on this, but when I looked up the stock Landcruiser back up lamp assemblies the listing indicated they started in 1972. But then when you think about it, when Downey started selling 3 speed transmission floor shift conversions in 1970 (made up from all genuine Toyota parts) the top housings did have the back up lamp switch in them, sooooo possibly the lamp assembly changed in 1972 and I merely looked up the 1972-newer lamp.
 
1. I noticed the body has a rear back-up light, I thought those did not come out until 1972 ???.
2. I'm thinking I'd want to move that front winch rearward so that I wouldn't have sooooo much front-end over-hang, better approach angle.
3. I'm quite sure you will soon discover that those front "load leveler" shocks have the front-end double spring loaded, and the valving works 90% in the wrong direction, soooo I see Bilsteins in your future.
I will have to check on the backup light. I don't think I'm planning to put the winch back on it...at least not that one. I assume it will go in the classified section soon. You're correct on the shocks...or at least part correct. I have a set of procomp 2.5" springs and shocks going on it soon..
 
I'm not the expert on this, but when I looked up the stock Landcruiser back up lamp assemblies the listing indicated they started in 1972. But then when you think about it, when Downey started selling 3 speed transmission floor shift conversions in 1970 (made up from all genuine Toyota parts) the top housings did have the back up lamp switch in them, sooooo possibly the lamp assembly changed in 1972 and I merely looked up the 1972-newer lamp.

I show a lens change on 10/69. 9/72 the whole reverse light changed. Instead of the housing being recessed the whole light was bolted to the back. It was a much larger light 9/72-973. 9/73+ reverse lights were part of the tail light assembly.
 
That's a sharp truck in good shape. It will look great in Spring Green.
 
Well, more tear down and now I’m getting the itch to pull the tub to media blast. I know it’s the best way to do it but hope I’m not biting off more than I can chew. Still pretty happy with the condition of the body in all the places I couldn’t see. Also hoping the body mount bolts aren’t too much of a pain...but I’m guessing they will be
E7581A14-5D39-4F37-8D03-319FCB6406E9.jpeg
B9557CCD-FF9C-459C-897A-399A09A4A740.jpeg
06AC56C8-907C-4482-9DCC-F2B75B99D17A.jpeg
FFB3EEA4-EF78-4A3F-B0AC-6EACC94961C0.jpeg
 
Hey Lou, hope you are well! I'm not an expert but I think that's correct, my seats have the headrest posts too. Of course they've been recovered and padded, but you know that. Damn, you've really dug in, good on ya! Cheers -Matt
 
Hey Lou, hope you are well! I'm not an expert but I think that's correct, my seats have the headrest posts too. Of course they've been recovered and padded, but you know that. Damn, you've really dug in, good on ya! Cheers -Matt
Thanks Matt! I’m doing well. I can see how these projects get out of hand...pulled the tub and had everything blasted...surprised how straight a fairly rust free everything is. Now I’m sitting here saying “well how much more work can it be to pull the motor and get the frame blasted and painted??” Real steel panels are coming in next week for rocker and front floors then it’s heading to body/paint.
D9C28A3B-685E-4B8F-BA68-A333855D2E10.jpeg
E1375F7B-FF23-4E38-A1D9-A4D75BB37B0E.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom