1969 OM617 Diesel FJ40

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Joined
Jun 21, 2006
Threads
13
Messages
118
Location
Corning, CA
I have been a member here for a while, but have not posted any build threads on this board. I am working on a little bit different OM617 Diesel build. I have been collecting parts for this build since I heard of 4x4 Labs making the adapter in 2009. I only have a few days a year to work on this project, so this build will go slow, but I thought I'd keep the Mud world up on this project. So far here is the specs on my build:

OM617 144,000 Miles
Ranger Overdrive
Early FJ60 4-Speed Manual
FJ60 Transfer Case

I have not seen many OM617 builds using this combination, so I'd thought I would provide the information I learn on this build. I like the Toyota 4-Speed, and like the strength of the split case. I also have had some problems with the FJ40 transfer case mounted cross member many people use on their V-8 builds, so I wanted to take a different direction and use a stronger mount provided on the FJ60 transmission.

I will post more pics of my project next week, but aside from completing the motor and transmission mounts, I've finished the spring-over and am putting FJ60 Rear Springs. My intention is to create a street and hunting rig, and do not plan on getting crazy with difficult wheeling. My original plans did not include a spring-over, but the frame I'm using had the spring-over completed and I thought the OM617 would be getting too close to the front axle if I did not have the lift. I was also concerned about the length of the driveline in the rear, as my drivetrain is very long, my initial measurement was 19 inches. I had a couple sets of rear FJ60 springs, so I am hoping to lengthen the driveline a couple inches by setting the rear axle back.

Will post more pics later.
image.webp
 
Is the Om617 shorter than an F/2F? Could you move it forward to allow for moe rear shaft space?

I've read of people using the aluminum 4speed top cover with SBC swaps to move the Transmission shifter back 4" to have it in a stock location... If you swapped in a cast iron 40 top cover, would that allow you to keep your stick shift closer to the stock location with your longer drivetrain?

I'm not sure on which 4speed trans covers are interchangeable... PM me if you'd like to trade (I'd love to get my hands on the right aluminum top).
 
The OM617 is a lot shorter. I am using an H55 but I didn't want to have to cut new holes in my floor boards or change drivelines. The H55 top mount shifter is about 4 inches back compared to the H42/41. We just moved the engine forward 4-5 inches and that allowed us to keep the shifters in the exact same spot and the transfer case in front of the rear cross memeber. Still plenty of room in front of it but we are going to use an electric fan none the less. Just makes sense for a two speed fan when you have to cool a W/A intercooler and especially with A/C.
 
I was going to try to use the H55, but the cost was a little much for me. I was able to trade for the Ranger OD, and I believe the OD is higher than the H55. I have the engine located as far forward as possible. I am going to try to use the stock fan, as I'm trying to keep the rig as simple as possible.
 
Is the Om617 shorter than an F/2F? Could you move it forward to allow for moe rear shaft space?

I've read of people using the aluminum 4speed top cover with SBC swaps to move the Transmission shifter back 4" to have it in a stock location... If you swapped in a cast iron 40 top cover, would that allow you to keep your stick shift closer to the stock location with your longer drivetrain?

I'm not sure on which 4speed trans covers are interchangeable... PM me if you'd like to trade (I'd love to get my hands on the right aluminum top).

Sorry, if I change to the cast top cover, I've got 2 other four speeds sitting in my shop.
 
No worries... It's way down on the to do list... If it even makes the list.
 
Subscribed, I've been totally interested in the Mercedes diesel swap. I am looking forward to seeing the final product.
 
I'm running a H42/split case with my OM617, you won't run into any issues but I highly recommend going with a 40(late)/60 style crossmember to support. You're also going to have to notch the oil pan, I'm on the second iteration in mine with a 3" lift (pumpkin hit notch and broke welds). I'd highly recommend doing the front and rear main on that motor now, otherwise you'll be pulling it to remove the upper oil pan and crank bolts (mine didn't leak until I got some miles on it after sitting). It's a weird cord-based seal that has to be installed in two pieces :frown: Good luck with the build!

Cheers!
Tucker
 
I'm running a H42/split case with my OM617, you won't run into any issues but I highly recommend going with a 40(late)/60 style crossmember to support. You're also going to have to notch the oil pan, I'm on the second iteration in mine with a 3" lift (pumpkin hit notch and broke welds). I'd highly recommend doing the front and rear main on that motor now, otherwise you'll be pulling it to remove the upper oil pan and crank bolts (mine didn't leak until I got some miles on it after sitting). It's a weird cord-based seal that has to be installed in two pieces :frown: Good luck with the build!

Cheers!
Tucker

Ok, I've got a few concerns now. I'm running an SOA on this rig, so I shouldn't have issues with my oil plan hitting the front diff, correct? This is the recommendation from 4x4Labs, and all I've seen so far (I stopped by 4x4Labs last year to buy my adapter). I also made my own transmission mount, pretty slick, looking and highly recommended. With some square tubing, scrap angle iron, and my first attempts at motor mounts I was able to make the mount for $22, the cost of rubber bushings. I have an FJ62 parts rig and looked over the transmission mount, auto has a smaller mount, but I feel my mount/cross member is three times as strong as factory. I'm planning on posting pics of my mounts soon, I haven't had time to work on the rig this week, and need to get corners rounded to make it more presentable.
 
Subscribed, I've been totally interested in the Mercedes diesel swap. I am looking forward to seeing the final product.

I don't want to disappoint, but this build will be slow. I only get a couple of weeks a year to hammer out this project. I live and work in Idaho and my only work space is in Nor Cal.
 
Ran into a minor snag. Been trying to get creative on mounting the FJ60 springs in the rear. I have FJ60 springs on the rear of my '74 FJ40 and went a different direction than most people. I used FJ60 pins and widened the front hanger by removing the rivets to accept the wider springs. The issue with this was getting the pin center hole turned down to the smaller size of the FJ40. Not wanting to order new FJ60 pins (the cost would be over $50 two get two pins shipped here), I searched through the site and found this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/278746-rear-fj60-springs-fj40.html

The SOR bushings allow the larger spring holes to be used with the smaller pin. Definitely saves some money on this conversion. I plan to "mill" the springs to the 40 width, so I do not need to make any more changes the the front hanger.
 
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The 60 springs I'm running were the same width as my 40 ones... Did they change at some point?

Will milling them create a stress point that will lead to potential failure?
 
The 60 springs I'm running were the same width as my 40 ones... Did they change at some point?

Will milling them create a stress point that will lead to potential failure?

I'm interested in seeing these SOR bushings, because they factory FJ60 bushing and spring combination is 1/4" wider than the FJ40.
 
Ah, that makes sense, I'm still running 40 top leaves.
 
Ah, that makes sense, I'm still running 40 top leaves.

It appears that the SOR bushings are the same width as the FJ40, I haven't put anything together, because I've been doing some frame cleanup and modifications before putting everything together.
 
I've got some work done to the frame. Got everything cleaned and under coated. After Christmas, I'm going to start putting things together.

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I'm going to use these for the front motor mounts. I have designed my mounts to be similar to many 350 swaps, a very simple design. These will sit on a rubber bushing that will bolt to the frame. The only downside is that the mounts on the OM617 are off-set on the engine, so I had to set the engine on the frame to determine placement.

Picture003.jpg
 

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