- Thread starter
- #741
Little things that mean your spare tire stays put. Thanks City Racer!
Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis
- Thread starter 120mm
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #742
Getting frickin busy.
Had a dent in one of the stiffeners and was painted that awful color black. Took care of both with an English wheel, some acetone and 0000 steel wool
Had a dent in one of the stiffeners and was painted that awful color black. Took care of both with an English wheel, some acetone and 0000 steel wool
I just recently bought this bumpstop from city racer.
I have been meaning to ask about your bias plys! what size did you get? and are you running the 15 inch rim or the 16? also do I spy cruisercorps seat covers?
- Thread starter
- #745
Nice those tires look really good on there! Thanks! I installed the cruiser corps ones in my 40 a few months ago and I am very happy with them! I still need to install the rear seat covers though.
- Thread starter
- #747
Driver's side seatback done, driver's side bottom stripped and corrosion corrected.
- Thread starter
- #748
I really enjoy solving problems like these.
I read in a thread on mud about overstuffing the seat springs to help them out and it apparently works.
Also, when I reassembled the seat, found an extra, unnecessary spring and that someone before me had assembled it incorrectly.
Put the adjustment assembly back together correctly, threw away the spring and I now have comfy, full adjustment driver's seat
One note, those plastic plates between the sliders and seat that disintegrated when I looked at it sideways are super important, but it's really easy to make a workable copy if you think it through.
I read in a thread on mud about overstuffing the seat springs to help them out and it apparently works.
Also, when I reassembled the seat, found an extra, unnecessary spring and that someone before me had assembled it incorrectly.
Put the adjustment assembly back together correctly, threw away the spring and I now have comfy, full adjustment driver's seat
One note, those plastic plates between the sliders and seat that disintegrated when I looked at it sideways are super important, but it's really easy to make a workable copy if you think it through.
- Thread starter
- #749
I also need to go over something for educational purposes.
As I mentioned a few posts back, I had my driver's side rear drum lock up on the road.
I drove it to a safe place, but by then my wheel was smoking bad, and it took a bit to cool it back down.
Once cool, I tried to take the drum off but it was stuck. The adjustment wheels would turn, but the brakes stayed locked tight. (This was actually a clue.)
I ended up using my persuasive little friend in combination with my tire iron to slowly pry that drum off.
The extra heat did no noticeable damage to the drum, but I noticed my adjustment wheel on the Left Rear Front cylinder was fully adjusted out, while the Left Rear Rear cylinder was fully adjusted in.
Hmmmm. I started to mess with that adjustment wheel and it's then I noticed it was adjusting backwards. Evidently someone before me had installed a Left Rear Rear cylinder in the Left Rear Front position.
I remembered how hard it was to adjust and bleed that brake assembly. At the time the brake locked up, I had good pedal, but unacceptable travel, and was flummoxed as to why.
I then adjusted both cylinders adjusting the Left Rear Front backwards, until I was able to install the drum only by lightly driving it on with my hammer.
Upon a test drive, I immediately had both proper pedal travel and feel. I even was forced to panic brake on the way home due to typical Tennessee driver, and the rig stopped with alacrity.
Drove it for awhile and the hub remained cool to the touch. I also noticed that my brake master cylinder fluid level dropped about 1/4 inch. I imagine that the Left Rear Front cylinder is finally adjusted to where it allows brake fluid to fill the cylinder. No leaks have occurred, so....
Lessons learned:
1. Don't assume anything on a prior owned, long parked vehicle.
2. It's a LOT easier to both adjust and bleed brake cylinders if you adjust them "almost" to where they need to be and THEN install the drums. It's slightly harder to get them on, but it pays dividends during the bleeding/adjustment process later.
3. Land Cruisers are tough. I once set a Subaru on fire when I got a stuck brake on the highway under almost exact conditions. The entire wheel assembly was toast.
As I mentioned a few posts back, I had my driver's side rear drum lock up on the road.
I drove it to a safe place, but by then my wheel was smoking bad, and it took a bit to cool it back down.
Once cool, I tried to take the drum off but it was stuck. The adjustment wheels would turn, but the brakes stayed locked tight. (This was actually a clue.)
I ended up using my persuasive little friend in combination with my tire iron to slowly pry that drum off.
The extra heat did no noticeable damage to the drum, but I noticed my adjustment wheel on the Left Rear Front cylinder was fully adjusted out, while the Left Rear Rear cylinder was fully adjusted in.
Hmmmm. I started to mess with that adjustment wheel and it's then I noticed it was adjusting backwards. Evidently someone before me had installed a Left Rear Rear cylinder in the Left Rear Front position.
I remembered how hard it was to adjust and bleed that brake assembly. At the time the brake locked up, I had good pedal, but unacceptable travel, and was flummoxed as to why.
I then adjusted both cylinders adjusting the Left Rear Front backwards, until I was able to install the drum only by lightly driving it on with my hammer.
Upon a test drive, I immediately had both proper pedal travel and feel. I even was forced to panic brake on the way home due to typical Tennessee driver, and the rig stopped with alacrity.
Drove it for awhile and the hub remained cool to the touch. I also noticed that my brake master cylinder fluid level dropped about 1/4 inch. I imagine that the Left Rear Front cylinder is finally adjusted to where it allows brake fluid to fill the cylinder. No leaks have occurred, so....
Lessons learned:
1. Don't assume anything on a prior owned, long parked vehicle.
2. It's a LOT easier to both adjust and bleed brake cylinders if you adjust them "almost" to where they need to be and THEN install the drums. It's slightly harder to get them on, but it pays dividends during the bleeding/adjustment process later.
3. Land Cruisers are tough. I once set a Subaru on fire when I got a stuck brake on the highway under almost exact conditions. The entire wheel assembly was toast.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #750
Extended some diff breathers today
- Thread starter
- #751
I'm still fighting my driver's side rear brake locking up, randomly, and I "think" it might be the LRR cylinder.
Tonight when it locked up, I got to it before it overheated and was able to pry the drum off. The LRR cylinder was fully deployed and wouldn't pull back in.
This cylinder was also an iron clad b*tch to bleed when I was fighting that issue.
My guess is that if I replaced it, I "might" be able to fix the issue. While I'm there, I may as well replace the LRF cylinder, which is, in actuality, an LRR cylinder in the wrong position.
Problem is, FJparts, which allegedly has Japan built units in stock, works hard to keep returning customers from logging in to order and SOR has "mystery meat" cylinders for twice the price of everyone elses' mystery meat made in China out of paper mache' garbage cylinders.
Not sure where to go from here.
Tonight when it locked up, I got to it before it overheated and was able to pry the drum off. The LRR cylinder was fully deployed and wouldn't pull back in.
This cylinder was also an iron clad b*tch to bleed when I was fighting that issue.
My guess is that if I replaced it, I "might" be able to fix the issue. While I'm there, I may as well replace the LRF cylinder, which is, in actuality, an LRR cylinder in the wrong position.
Problem is, FJparts, which allegedly has Japan built units in stock, works hard to keep returning customers from logging in to order and SOR has "mystery meat" cylinders for twice the price of everyone elses' mystery meat made in China out of paper mache' garbage cylinders.
Not sure where to go from here.
Kurt and his team's awesome service to the rescue - Shop by Category - Brake - Wheel Cylinders - Page 1 - Cruiser Teq - https://cruiserteq.com/brake-wheel-cylinders-1/
FIC are Japanese cylinders
- Thread starter
- #753
The description is non standard and the picture doesn't match the part. Doesn't help me at all.
- Thread starter
- #754
I don't understand understand why suppliers can't pull their heads from their collective ass3s and adhere to a standard description
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
When it locks up have you tried cracking the bleeder to see if fluid is forced out and see if the brake releases? My guess would be the rod between the booster and mc is out of adjustment. There is a tool to make that adjustment. It's not an uncommon issue. You might want to adjust everything starting with pedal height and go down stream from there. It sounds like shoe adjustments are about right.
- Thread starter
- #756
You know, that is how I was able to reassemble the brake.
So what you're saying is that the MC pedal is just constantly applying brake pressure because of the out of adjustment rod?
Will look into that
- Thread starter
- #757
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
If the rod is to proud it will apply slight pressure on the mc piston. The rear resoiviour is for the rear brakes. Over a little time driving the rear brakes start locking up. The rod is adjustable. They do make a tool or you can just screw it in little by little. You might find the tool at an ap store or internet. Do you have a fsm? There's adjustments for pedal height too.
- Thread starter
- #759
I have an fsm, but don't have a rear reservoir. Or a brake booster.
Will check pedal height though
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Then its probably similar to the clutch pedal height and freeplay adjustment at the mc. There needs to be slight freeplay between the master and pedal rod.
