just curious, how much have you spent on just the sheet metal ?
Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread
- Thread starter buckroseau
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buckroseau
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- #462
beaufort-fj60 said:
Exactly $70, I've used about 2/3's of that $70 so probably $50 of that $70. I think I will be using all of those 2 - 4'x8' sheets by the time I'm done. So it should be a total of $70.
Matt
buckroseau
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- #463
cruiserdan said:
That's ok, thanks for looking! I think Toyota semi - idiot proofed it by having different bolt patterns for each individual hinge. They can only go in 1 spot and that's it.
Except for 7/8 and 3/4 Those have the same pattern, but are not the same as any of the others. I do believe that the 3/4 is the front lower hinge and the 7/8 is the rear lower just because of the pin location of 3/4 to 1/2 (are the same) and 7/8 to 5/6 (those are the same). Seems to make sense. Worse case I just have to take out a few bolts and switch them around now
Why treeroot had a 7/8 in the front lower spot
If someone else pulls them out........... might confirm this or shed some more light on it?Thanks again, Matt
TJDIV
UP of MI.
$70.
$70!!!!
Ok, Ok, factor in the $35,000 labor bill just for body work....just to push it out of my price range.
Jeez-O-Peetz.
$70!!!!
Ok, Ok, factor in the $35,000 labor bill just for body work....just to push it out of my price range.
Jeez-O-Peetz.
buckroseau said:Mistake......of course. Didn't see the #'s because of rust and paint, and I assumed which was wrong of me, that they were all the same. They sure look like it from 2 feet away? Once I started blasting and the #'s became apparent I realized that I may have a problem. 2nd, anything I do in my life as far as projects go, I kick ass and try to take names later. Hey, the air was fresh, compressor fully charged, air tools fired up and parts are a flying....
Matt you just crossed into the grygla city limits on that one...
Just letting you know before the wagon has twice pipes coming out the back.
Keep up the good work
Later
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buckroseau said:
Is that 20 guage metal yer using there? Thanks for the links on the sheer and brake..... it takes up to 20 gauge... so I'm thinking its less than that?
thanks!
buckroseau
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- #467
Just got back, brought the camera with me this time.
Pics are from 2 evenings of work now. My buddy pretty much worked on fabbing a rear quarter from thin air. While I spent time cutting out rusty metal, blasting, priming, welding in new metal, priming.....etc....you get the idea.
You saw the pics from earlier today of those triangle pieces, should be able to see them installed. Had to make some inner structure than curved around the back also.
Remember to share the vision here, nothing is primed yet, but there is a quarter panel tacked in now with ablsolutely no rust, primed inside and out with epoxy primer and ready to be fully welded in.
Another evening and we figure we will be wrapping up this quarter. Might fit the doors on this side next just for fun, something different before we move onto the other side.
Matt
Pics are from 2 evenings of work now. My buddy pretty much worked on fabbing a rear quarter from thin air. While I spent time cutting out rusty metal, blasting, priming, welding in new metal, priming.....etc....you get the idea.
You saw the pics from earlier today of those triangle pieces, should be able to see them installed. Had to make some inner structure than curved around the back also.
Remember to share the vision here, nothing is primed yet, but there is a quarter panel tacked in now with ablsolutely no rust, primed inside and out with epoxy primer and ready to be fully welded in.
Another evening and we figure we will be wrapping up this quarter. Might fit the doors on this side next just for fun, something different before we move onto the other side.
Matt
buckroseau
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- #468
more
buckroseau
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- #469
some more
buckroseau
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- #470
even somre more
buckroseau
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- #471
3 more
buckroseau
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- #472
1 more
buckroseau
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- #473
TJDIV said:
Not much in material, but then factor in some of the equipment required to bend that stuff up and weld it in...... adds a couple extra bucks
buckroseau
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- #474
Flyin_Ryan said:
Matt you just crossed into the grygla city limits on that one...
Just letting you know before the wagon has twice pipes coming out the back.
Keep up the good work
Later
Yea, I'm a hill billy at heart
Speaking of hill billys, old Ned Beatty stopped in the store here the past 2 weekends now............... Gets me in the spirit................Squeel...................
Sorry, getting off track now................
buckroseau
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- #475
Mikesta said:
Yes, 20 gauge, and yes that is the thickest steel you can shear in those links to that machine I sent you.
Does it very well though
buckroseau
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- #477
Not a ton of pics tonight, but did a ton of work. Both me and body dude kicked ass tonight, wasn't much time for pics.
I spent a good portion of the even welding the quarter in. Took some time, lot's of welding. Lot of time grinding all the welds down, but turned out real nice.
My buddy got to try out those new hinges and bushings While I was welding he zip wheeled down both passenger side doors. We installed the rear door, which went amazingly well. Unbeliveable how a new set of bushings make it seem like a new vehicle, well almost. Before the doors were hanging on there and fell out of the jam when you open them. Now, tight and rotate nicely. The front door, not quite as easy. As soon as bolted it on and tried to close it my buddy new something was wrong. Since he does this for a living and is extremely good at it, some quick measuring on his part he determine that the A pillar was bent back, so the top hinge mounting point was pushed back also. From all the bondo in the front end, broken shock towers and everything else, it seemed to make sense that it took a hard hit in the front corner. Some quick straighting on his part with his tools.........perfect. Truley amazing watching someone who knows exactly where to push metal to make it fit. Anyway, both doors on that side closing nicely, no mechanism's, but well enough until it's back on the chassis.
Once we wrapped up the passenger side for the most part, at least for metal work we moved on the driverside. This is the side that had that severely bent up inner panel
Not good, even my friend was shaking his head on how twisted it was. A good hour and half of jacking, heating, dollying, hammering, hammering, hammering, hammering, hammering................hammering...............and it's some what close.
Heading back up there Saturday morning, hoping with more hammering and jacking we can get it some what acceptable
Then re-install the quarter, doors and with any luck might have the driver side metal work done by Saturday night.
Matt
I spent a good portion of the even welding the quarter in. Took some time, lot's of welding. Lot of time grinding all the welds down, but turned out real nice.
My buddy got to try out those new hinges and bushings
While I was welding he zip wheeled down both passenger side doors. We installed the rear door, which went amazingly well. Unbeliveable how a new set of bushings make it seem like a new vehicle, well almost. Before the doors were hanging on there and fell out of the jam when you open them. Now, tight and rotate nicely. The front door, not quite as easy. As soon as bolted it on and tried to close it my buddy new something was wrong. Since he does this for a living and is extremely good at it, some quick measuring on his part he determine that the A pillar was bent back, so the top hinge mounting point was pushed back also. From all the bondo in the front end, broken shock towers and everything else, it seemed to make sense that it took a hard hit in the front corner. Some quick straighting on his part with his tools.........perfect. Truley amazing watching someone who knows exactly where to push metal to make it fit. Anyway, both doors on that side closing nicely, no mechanism's, but well enough until it's back on the chassis.Once we wrapped up the passenger side for the most part, at least for metal work we moved on the driverside. This is the side that had that severely bent up inner panel
Not good, even my friend was shaking his head on how twisted it was. A good hour and half of jacking, heating, dollying, hammering, hammering, hammering, hammering, hammering................hammering...............and it's some what close. Heading back up there Saturday morning, hoping with more hammering and jacking we can get it some what acceptable
Then re-install the quarter, doors and with any luck might have the driver side metal work done by Saturday night. Matt
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buckroseau
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- #478
1 more, more hammering......................
buckroseau
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- #479
Poser said:Grygla....
Ha ha ha!
Looks GREAT Matt!
Thanks, it's going well.
Grygla's high class up here
Matt
buckroseau
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- #480
Door strikers - Thoughts?
Question for you guys, see what you think.
My friend was looking at the doors asking about the strikers and mechanism's, asking about the shape they were in. I told him they were ok, but 40 years old.
He suggested installing aftermarket strikers with a double safety pin mechanism. He's into hot rods, so knows a lot about aftermarket stuff and has installed a lot. He showed me these aftermarket strikers in this, "Speedway motors" catalog. About $20 bucks for each set of pin and striker. He said you have to cut the door, but it would be like a new vehicle latch and probably be tighter. He figured we would probably be able to use the stock handles, but may have to be moved a 1/2" + or so left or right to use with the aftermarket stuff.
I stated at the beginning of this thread, I want to use the vehicle a LOT. Or at least, have the wife drive it a lot. I don't have any experience with the factory latch's so I can't speak from experience with those. I just want it to be as tight as possible going down the road, no rattles and such.
Just wondering what you guys think?
Thanks, Matt
Question for you guys, see what you think.
My friend was looking at the doors asking about the strikers and mechanism's, asking about the shape they were in. I told him they were ok, but 40 years old.
He suggested installing aftermarket strikers with a double safety pin mechanism. He's into hot rods, so knows a lot about aftermarket stuff and has installed a lot. He showed me these aftermarket strikers in this, "Speedway motors" catalog. About $20 bucks for each set of pin and striker. He said you have to cut the door, but it would be like a new vehicle latch and probably be tighter. He figured we would probably be able to use the stock handles, but may have to be moved a 1/2" + or so left or right to use with the aftermarket stuff.
I stated at the beginning of this thread, I want to use the vehicle a LOT. Or at least, have the wife drive it a lot. I don't have any experience with the factory latch's so I can't speak from experience with those. I just want it to be as tight as possible going down the road, no rattles and such.
Just wondering what you guys think?
Thanks, Matt
