Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread

[Ground Up]

I replaced the striker plates on all of the doors with striker plates from a FJ55. I was amazed at how sweet the doors close now. The doors close and latch by just pushing them, no slamming or leaning into them to close them. I have an issue with the passanger side front door but, I believe it is due to the fact that the hinge mounting plates are stress cracked and the door has about 5 stress cracks in the main skin.

I would take a look at the rotator mechanisms that go in each door. If they are all straight and click over good, I would stick with the stock units. I would also pick up a set of striker plates from "Foxfab" if haven't already.

 

[cruiserwanted]

I think you have done WAY too much work to keep the stock look to cut up anything.......I personally would try everything I could think of before cutting the doors to move the assembly. Looks WAY too nice for something like that. I understand you wanted to be comfortable and use it ALOT but the doors is not something I would sacrifice for comfort. Just my .02. It is your ride though. I love this thread. Can not say it enough. Thank you so much for maintaining it and diligently updating. Truly amazed.

 

[buckroseau]

Keep in mind that it will have the stock look, I would be using the the stock door handles, just not the guts.

And really that is what I want, is the stock look. I've already basterdized the engine compartment with a chevy. So if keeping it stock is your thinking, I believe were beyond that point.

I'm not trying to argue or trying to convince you to agree with me, just pointing out that I'm not totally concerned with keeping it stock, just looking stock.

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

I replaced the striker plates on all of the doors with striker plates from a FJ55. .

What is the door latch mech. design like on a 55?

Thanks, Matt

 

[madams557]

I think if you are not trying to be a purist and don't plan on keeping the 2F, then small upgrades like the door strickers shouldn't matter. And considering the quality of work that you have shown thus far, I figure your stricker plates will blend right in.

IMHO.

 

[buckroseau]

I think if you are not trying to be a purist and don't plan on keeping the 2F, then small upgrades like the door strickers shouldn't matter. And considering the quality of work that you have shown thus far, I figure your stricker plates will blend right in.

IMHO.

I suppose what I'm asking or wondering is aftermarket new type latches vs the original's how well the work compared to one another? When I got this thing I don't think any of the doors latched? And if a couple of them did, they barely did it and didn't do it well. If a properly adjusted stock latch in excellent condition falls into the area of, "it should latch pretty good and not rattle to much", then I will go aftermarket. I just don't know how good these stock mech's are? I want a solid positive latch when the door close's and my friend is thinking a newer style 2 stage safety latch is going to give me that.

But as far as blending aftermarket latch's right in, your right. When I'm done you will think Toyota put it in from the factory.

Matt

 

[Poser]

Matt-


I am pretty sure your buddy knows what he is talking about.


You will probably be kicking yourself for not going this route six months down the road when the drivers door will not stay latched, or you have rattles...had you not said a word about this, and just went ahead and done it, I would bet that no one out here would have even noticed...'cept for a few of us that heve seen/operated/worked on these vehicles...


With all the work you have put into this thing, modify it to suit you and your wife best. After all, that is what REALLY matters....



This is really looking good Matt.





Good luck!


-Steve

 

[Ground Up]

What is the door latch mech. design like on a 55?

Thanks, Matt

The tailgate on the 55's had a similar rolling latch just like the 45LV's. In fact the striker plates on the 45LV tailgate and the 55 were identical. They do fit in all of the other locations, they just don't have that littlet ear. If you hold the two side by side you will see what I mean.

I was lucky in that I parted out a 55 that had about 6 new ones laying on the floor in the back.

I was really suprisedat how just putting in the new weatherstrip around the door and the striker plates made it latch like a new vehicle.

I agree though that it is your rig and you need to make yourself happy.

 

[cruiserwanted]

Matt,

I misunderstood and thought you would have to move the HANDLE back I know you want to use the vehicle ALOT and make it nice and comfy for the wife. I saw your engine some posts back and realized you where not going for a purist resto. I do realize though that your body is going to look as close to purist as possible and I was just saying if you move the handles back than all your had work and getting the door hinges right would look a little off. I agree with poser, you buddy probably knows what he is talking about and if landpimp could not tell than who cares. Like others have said it is YOUR vehicle and I would probably fall over if I ever saw it for sale so do with it what YOU want. Can not say it enough. Amazing.

 

[buckroseau]

Pics in this episode are from all day Saturday and 3 hours Sunday morning. Put in about a 13 hour day on Saturday and got a lot done. Sucked a little because it was about 95 degrees out so it was HOT!!

Pretty much had to beat some more on that inner pannel and keep re-working that to get it straight. Also ground down the 2 drivers side doors with the zip wheel. Off course the rear drivers side door had about an inch of filler in it Must have been some collision to do all that damage on that side. It was bad enough where my buddy said we have to cut out that section just to straighten it, so there were a few extra hours just in that rear door to get that panel straight and the rear jam.

Got that rear quarter installed back on right this time, after all the pushing and pulling got everything lined up pretty decent, at least 95% better than it was before. Hung both doors, those new bushings in those hinges just kick ass!! Just amazing what a new set will do compared to the old ones.

Ran up there this morning about 7 am and put in about a 3 hour day. Got the driverside rear wheel well back in, took at least an hour and a half. Also my buddy and I did some work with the hammer dolly on the rear floor because it must have had some real heavy stuff in at one time and had little dents all over the place, that turned out good. Front cowl was caved in a bit on the upper right side, hood never fit the day I got it and was full of bondo. Did some work with the stud gun and slide hammer and got it pulled out about a 1/2 to 3/8 inch. Going to need a little filler, but not much now.

And since it was another 95 degree day in Minnesota with humidity threw the roof, off to the lake it was this afternoon for some Jetsking and fun in the sun!!

Heading back up tomorrow night for about 3 hours of work with the stud gun and slide hammer on the rear quarters, but after that. It comes back to my shop for another week or 2 of work and then back on the chassis.

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

more

 

[buckroseau]

some more

 

[buckroseau]

1 more

 

[74fj40]

fricken amazing man, youve almost got 500 posts in this thread thats amazing!!!

 

[TJDIV]

Damn Matt....you're pushing the bar over the top with the latest round of work.


That's top notch s*** bro.....

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Damn Matt....you're pushing the bar over the top with the latest round of work.


That's top notch s*** bro.....

Prolly...... sorry wait, not prolly but the best indepth build I have ever seen.


Guarantee you will of helped a lot of newbs understand what is involved in a top notch resto, no question in my mind this is of the highest level restorationm I have read.

Keep up the great work......


Rob

 

[cruiserwanted]

Matt,

Might be a little off topic and may be a stupid question but curious as to why you went fiberglass on the 40 when you have the skill to do this kind of metal work? I know it has been a long process and very tiresome but it looks amazing and as many others have said top quality. I know I for one am (green) with envy. Just thoughts.....

Keep'em coming.

 

[Mikesta]

Every time I look at this thread I have to use my drool catcher.... its going to be a beaut!

 

[Lito]

Okay Matt, Here's a business opportunity for you...... Professor Matt, Dean of FJ45lv restoration at ACE University. I know I'm at least the 2nd or 3rd person who asked you for an apprenticeship. How 'bout we all bring our beat up wagons to your place for a restoration summer camp? I'm sure you could charge enough tuition to at least cover beer and trips to the E.R.. Just a thought.
P.S. your on-line course already kicks @$$.

 

[buckroseau]

Well, in this episode . . . it was 95 degrees with about 95% humidity today. Oh God was it hot! I actually worked outside pouring concrete at my house all day so I was a little tired this evening. Managed to get a little work done tonight on the LV.

I think I mentioned a few posts back that some of the body mount bolts had busted off when we were taking the body off the chassis, 7 to be exact. There are 14 mounting points on a LV body, 8 of these points are a blind type nut. Meaning that the factory boxed the mount inside a channel and they were never meant to be removed. For weeks I have been applying penatrating oil to these broken studs/bolts. Tonight I used 1/2" nuts, cranked up the heat on the welder and welded the nuts to the stud. I tried to use the impact wrench to bust them loose..........Some broke off again even closer to the blind nut, others broke loose inside the channel and started spinning the blind mount. Had to take a different approach.

Tackled 3 on one side tonight. Cut open the channel and removed the blind mounts totally. After seeing them when they came out, there was no way they were going to move, so the right decision was made. Of course, sandblasted that area, epoxy primed. Then made new sections of channel. I used 10mm x 1.25 nuts, drilled holes in the new pieces I made in the same location as the old ones, and welded the nuts on the back side. Primed the back side of my pieces and welded them in and primed.

Now, this should work. The main difference here is that the blind mounts were in a cage inside the channel so that the mount could float a bit. Maybe an 1/8" in any direction?? I imagine it gave them some room for tolerance errors when it was coming down the assembly line. I thought of doing something like that again, but a ton of work and I think this will work better in the long run. If it is off a bit on the frame, I can slightly slot the hole on the frame if I have to and I know it will be no more than an 1/8" in any direction.

We'll more concrete tomorrow, but hoping to get the other side done tomorrow night We'll see how tired I am?

Matt