Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread

buckroseau · May 9, 2005

Didn't do much of anything on the lv tonight, the wife and I decided to goto a movie.

Got home and I've been meaning to tear into the front bib. I wish I would have taken some before pics. I might be able to find some in the back of the trailer after it was sandblasted. I bought a new/used bib from a fellow mudder because the one that came on the lv was bent and full of bondo. I knew when I bought this bib that it had this problem, I'm sure all do. You could tell my a small hole on the front and slight buldging between the spot welds, although after sandblasting it looked pretty good?

Anyway, took the spot weld cutter and cut out about 30 spot welds. I'll try to get both parts sandblasted tomorrow. A little metal work to do on the larger part, prime and plug weld it back together. I'm sure at the factory it was never primed, that's why this occured.

Just thought I would post a pic.

Matt

buckroseau · May 10, 2005

I got the bib sandblasted today. I had to weld in 2 patches, 16 ga. on each side about 1" x 5", where it just blew threw. I cut the patches to fit exactly in the rectangular holes I cut and butt welded them in. I ground the back and the front down after I welded them in. I then primed the inside of each piece, fit them together again with vice grips and plug welded them back together.

I used 36 grit on my air grinder and cleaned the face up and then sand blasted the back side to get some of the weld soot off. Hanged and epoxy primed the whole thing. Tomorrow night going to smear a little plastic across the bottom, block it out and spray some autobody master and the probably wet sand it out for now.

I think with that epoxy primer on the inside, I find it hard to believe it will rust in my life time. Wish they would have done something like that from the factory. After grinding the face off, I think I already have it smoother than it was stock. You could see and feel those spot welds on the lower part of the bib before I took it apart. A paper thin film of filler sanded down, should be better than new

Also, heading down the the iron store about an hour away on Thursday morning to pick up 2 - 4' x 8' sheets of 20 gauge sheet metal. I would like to get them DA'd down and sprayed on both sides with epoxy primer prior to cutting them up and using them. I guess that way there good to go when I start shearing and bending them up.

Matt

buckroseau · May 10, 2005

3 more

buckroseau · May 10, 2005

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cruiserbrett · May 10, 2005

Matt,
DO NOT leave DP50 un-topcoated for more than a week or so. you will have to re-shoot with DP50 again before you prime with a sandable primer if it goes longer than a week. I had serious adhesion problems with primer since I left it longer than the week. apparently it gets too hard after a week of curing and not alot sticks to it other than another coat of dp50.

looks great! seems like toyota had no ideas of the potential of rust when they designed the FJ45lv, and the grille.

buckroseau · May 10, 2005

cruiserbrett said:
Matt,
DO NOT leave DP50 un-topcoated for more than a week or so. you will have to re-shoot with DP50 again before you prime with a sandable primer if it goes longer than a week. I had serious adhesion problems with primer since I left it longer than the week. apparently it gets too hard after a week of curing and not alot sticks to it other than another coat of dp50.

looks great! seems like toyota had no ideas of the potential of rust when they designed the FJ45lv, and the grille.

You are correct on the top coat, DP has a 72 hour window to topcoat to achieve a chemical bond to the substrate. I will not be shooting the topcoat of paint (or primer if it needs it again) for several months on all the body parts that have been sprayed with DP, even the body. In this case you have to sand the surface prior to painting or priming again after the window has past. Normally a scotchbrite pad is sufficient, but each part will have to be gone over. Your not getting the chemical bond that DP was designed to do during that 72 hour spray window, but you will be getting a mechanical bond by sanding it.

It's just the way it has to be? I would prefer to spend a few extra hours several months from just going over everything and scuffing it up. I do NOT want to work with rusty, crusty parts so that's why I get all the parts clean and down to the bare metal and in primer.

On the chassis parts that I sprayed with DP, everything was topcoated with MTK within an hour.

Matt

Poser · May 10, 2005

Lookin very good Matt!

Sorry you had to rework that bib..

:beer:

buckroseau · May 10, 2005

Poser said:
Lookin very good Matt!

Sorry you had to rework that bib..

Don't be, I knew exactly what I had to do when I bought it. In fact I think I even mentioned it when I was standing in your shop

If you find anymore stock welded rims, save them for me. I would like to get them spun on a balancer first, but I need 3.

I'll pick them up when we pick you up on the way to Osh.

Thanks, Matt

treerootCO · May 11, 2005

I have some of Steve's stock rims

Ground Up · May 11, 2005

You should just order a set of new rims from Toyota. When I got mine they were running about $73 a rim. No worries about being straight and usable. They are already black if you want to go stock on the LV. Otherwise a little scuff ing and paint to your desire.

I have tried the used route to no real success.

cruiserbrett · May 11, 2005

Topcoating the dp50 right away is the only way to go... leaving it exposed around here has netted surface rust through in areas. I was not thrilled with it at all. and its so far from sandable it drives me crazy. I honestly tried the mechanical adhesion drill after the paint shop told me to get it topcoated right away, since I had let it sit for two weeks, and it did not work very well. just my experience.
Spies Hecker and others make much better bare metal primers/etchers.

buckroseau · May 11, 2005

cruiserbrett said:
Topcoating the dp50 right away is the only way to go... leaving it exposed around here has netted surface rust through in areas. I was not thrilled with it at all. and its so far from sandable it drives me crazy. I honestly tried the mechanical adhesion drill after the paint shop told me to get it topcoated right away, since I had let it sit for two weeks, and it did not work very well. just my experience.
Spies Hecker and others make much better bare metal primers/etchers.

I've never tried Spies Hecker, I'll check into that, I don't think anyone locally sells it though?

I've always had excellent results with PPG's DP line of primer, in fact from what I've used I would say it's the best I have every used. Doesn't mean there's something better out there, just my experience. I've also never had a surface rust problem or adhesion problem after sanding it again? I've let DP sit for months without rusting? I know where your at and the climate is pretty dry, seems odd it would surface rust? After sanding I can spray another coat of DP, I might have to do that anyway in certain areas.

It is just impossible for me to shoot a topcoat right now. I literially have months of work ahead of me before it can be topcoated, and that's working my ass off. Any don't get me wrong here, I like the input

I don't know everything and am always learning.

Matt

buckroseau · May 11, 2005

Look what just showed up

If I can get that front bib done might have to bolt on the front clip tonight for fun.

cruiserbrett · May 11, 2005

I am glad you had better luck with the DP primers. maybe I did something wrong, that is most likely the case, since my previous paint job was my first, and it was a very steep learning curve...

I think if you can keep it inside you will be fine.

looking good!!!

BTW, what output shaft did you end up using in the 700r4? 2wd or 4wd or AA's shaft?

buckroseau · May 11, 2005

cruiserbrett said:
I am glad you had better luck with the DP primers. maybe I did something wrong, that is most likely the case, since my previous paint job was my first, and it was a very steep learning curve...

I think if you can keep it inside you will be fine.

looking good!!!

BTW, what output shaft did you end up using in the 700r4? 2wd or 4wd or AA's shaft?

According to AA you have to use a 2wd output shaft. They send one with the kit that has been already cut and machined. So if you were building a tranny from scratch you could use the shaft they send with. If you buy a tranny already assembled and done (like I did) they also send instructions where to cut it. You have to buy or obtain the 2wd 700R4 tranny, it has the longer shaft than the 4wd drive one. Very simple and easy to cut if you get one already assembled.

The body will kept inside until it is completely done, unless some blasting or something messy has to be done. Then it goes outside for a while

I don't know what type of filter system your using on your paint set up, I guess I have a pretty good water trap in my inline filter system. Maybe some moisture being sprayed out with the primer? I also add about 10 to 20% reducer, although the instructions don't specifiy that, it helps the DP flow out a little smoother. Things to try?

Matt

LNDCRZR · May 11, 2005

I am catching thus kind of late but awesome build up. Great photos. I plan to one day redo my 40.

buckroseau · May 12, 2005

Got home last night and spread a thin layer of filler on the lower part of the bib and sanded it down. I think at the thickest point of th filler, probably 1/16", not to bad. Also blasted the lower bib bracket and sprayed everthing, with primer sealer.

I had to do a little custom cutting and notching on the fenders. The Firestien motor mounts interfered with the fender. Not a big deal. I am not done with that either, going to notch a little more on the driverside, also have to hammer all my bends straight and clean it up, but you get the idea.

Aftermarket fenders............I've use aftermarket stuff before on other vehicles. I guess I thought they would fit a little better? I didn't expect them to be a perfect fit, but I thought they would have been better. I still have some massaging to do, but I did get all the bolts in and bolted up. I had to drill out 3 spot welds on the passenger side fender near the front apron curve. There was no way it was going to happend the way it was welded. After I drilled out those welds it fell into place.

I don't know how much I will get done in the next 2 to 3 days. I have to work late tonight and the wife has got me scheduled this weekend to make Concrete countertops for her new kitchen island......

Figured I better post some pics. Fun to see some parts bolted back on

Matt