Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread

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Radd Cruisers said:
My take............

On past projects I have shot undercoating, not my favourite product.

Last couple projects I have shot tintable Rino Lining and then top coated for matching colour. When you tint its really off.

My gig is I like it to match the top side, seems more professional?

Edit, I also like the fact that the paint holds in the elastic properties of the seam sealer and paintable seam sealer for many decades to come verses the undercoating which dries out cracks and allows moisture to be introduced.

So your suggesting paint then the undercoating if I'm reading you correctly?

I will say the SEM stuff I used on my 40 is tintable and when I tinted it to the mustard yellow, it matched perfect. I guess I'm not that concerned if it's a hue off or something, since it's underneath. The base/clear continetal beige will be sprayed down the the pinch weld at the bottom.

Matt
 
Mikesta said:
I'm still blown away by your rotissery.

In my opinion, don't even bother pulling the body off an lv without one. Probably pay for itself in time the first day.

Edit: I think there are some plans for a rotisseri specificly for an lv somewhere out on the net ;)

Matt
 
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How else would you cook an LV all the way through?
 
rutbeer said:
How else would you cook an LV all the way through?


It took a few seconds to get that one ;)

Matt
 
Yes those plans are nice... going to use your plans and some geometry and physics to make a rotissery that can be lowered fro 7' garage clearance... so I can move it outside
 
Again, doesn't look like much, but a solid 4 hours tonight on the lv.

Most of the evening was spent finishing seam sealing, that was at least 2 hours if not more. I can say with almost certainty that after undercoating, I think the lv will float now, it's that tight. I then spent a good hour or more and sanded the bottom down with 80 grit, takes a while to get in all those grooves. Then spent the remainder of the night and bolted up card board to the tranny opening and a few other spots, getting ready for undercoating.

I did call SEM today and talk to the tech guys. The recommended NOT spraying a single stage ureathane on prior to there product. They said maximum adhesion would be achieved going directly to primer. I guess I'm proving that on my 40 after 2 years, that's directly on epoxy primer and has held up amazingly well.

So, plan is to get up tomorrow morning. Spray a coat of ureathane primer around the bottom of the drip rail first. While that's flashing off, back tape around the pinch weld at the bottom of the vehicle. Shoot a light coat of epoxy primer over the seam sealer (which they recommended doing) and a couple other areas. And then spray some sauce on the bottom.

Be interesting to see another color other than grey ;p

Matt
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If you just expended the effort Matt has to cut out and repair all the rust caused by the fact that the body was not sealed to begin with, you'd seal the bastard too.....;)
 
If the primer is the best for the undrcoat to stick to and a quality paint protects the best....why not prime, then paint, then prime, then undercoat?

Overkill maybe?
 
I was wondering the same thing
 
treerootCO said:
If the primer is the best for the undrcoat to stick to and a quality paint protects the best....why not prime, then paint, then prime, then undercoat?

Overkill maybe?

I think with that many substrates, your just asking for trouble, sometimes less is more. And I think in this application, paint might not be the best. I'm not trying to pick a fight here or argue, just explain my reasoning and others.

I've said it before, I do have some real world experience with this SEM stuff. When I sprayed my 40 with this stuff 2 years ago, I went directly on top of epoxy primer. My 40 is my daily driver and long distance driver, year round. I have about a mile and half of gravel to my house, which I usually drive up and down 4 times a day. It also gets layered with Minnesota road grime and salt, quite a bit of salt. 2 years and Approx. 16K later on my 40, that stuff looks as good as the day it was applied, even in the wheel wells. This particular SEM product I am applying will never get fully hard either, it will always retain a little bit of softness.

As my buddy would say, "It's your (insert project here), you do what you want".

But, this SEM crap is some pretty decent stuff, I guess that's why it costs about $200 a gallon and I have 2 ;)

Matt
 
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Pretty good day on the lv today, got what needed to be done.

Shot ureathane primer on the firewall, dash and under the drip rail. Of course they will all have to be sanded out a few more times, but all look good.

Taped off the edge of the body with fine line tape, few pics of that. Then had the wife come out and help me tape the rest of it off with plastic. Took a few pics of the stuff I used. The SEM tintable bedliner and the catalyst. Also the tint, which is MTK singel stage ureathane with out the 149 binder, which is basicly just the toner or color. I asked the paint guy for a gallon of continetal beige, but leave out the binder, he looked at me like I was nuts. Amazing how much binder is in there, without it, it's a little over a quart of paint.

SEM stuff went on good, I used about a gallon and a half of material. The other half gallon is going to be used underneath the front fenders, should be plenty. I think I'm postive the LV will float now. I don't know how I could rust proof it anymore, so.....bring on the road salt! ;p

Probably sand down the drip rail, dash and firewall tomorrow and spray another coat of primer. Not much to do, but that's ok.....my buddy Heavylift (Travis) showed up today, just got back from Iraq. I went out and helped him pick up his BJ40 at the airport where I had it stored for him. Hauled it out to my place, he should be starting on it tomorrow or Monday. That should keep me busy now for the next couple weeks.

Matt
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Buddy Travis (Heavylift), helping him load today :)

Matt
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With Gator liner I used less catalyst as the stuff setup real fast, almost hardening in the gun.

I tinted with the paint, later thought about having it tinted at the store with the tinter instead for a more bang on colour match.

I topp coated at the end with paint to colour match.

Made for a great sound deadener also, and I new the wheel wells would not see stone chips as the stuff is real tough.

We dynamatted the floors and the truck is pretty darn quiet now.

Looking good Matt..........


Rob
 
Radd Cruisers said:
With Gator liner I used less catalyst as the stuff setup real fast, almost hardening in the gun.

I tinted with the paint, later thought about having it tinted at the store with the tinter instead for a more bang on colour match.

I topp coated at the end with paint to colour match.

Made for a great sound deadener also, and I new the wheel wells would not see stone chips as the stuff is real tough.

We dynamatted the floors and the truck is pretty darn quiet now.

Looking good Matt..........


Rob

Thanks on the compliment, I think it turned out real nice.

This stuff has about a 20 minute pot life, so you need to work pretty quickly also. I tinted the resin first and then just kept catalyzing a quart at a time, went real good. I had my helper moving the stool and hose around as I was spraying, also held the Shutz gun open when I poured it in so it went faster ;) .

I think for the most part it matched perfect, it should, it is the same color.

I've also got my carpet padding that I ordered when I order my upholstery. It is about a 1/2" thick with a silver foil bonded on one side for heat. I think that along with this undercoating should keep it pretty quiet in there...........I want it to be nice because I'm debating on driving it out to Cruise Moab 07;)

Gotta get it moving first thought ;p

Matt
 
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buckroseau said:
Buddy Travis (Heavylift), helping him load today :)

Matt

Matt,
Is Travis going to do a build thread? I hope so!!!

Lookign good on the LV!!
 
89s rule said:
Matt,
Is Travis going to do a build thread? I hope so!!!

Lookign good on the LV!!


I believe he is going to, probably will be starting up in a few days in the 40 tech section :)

It will be pretty fast and furious for the first couple weeks, while he is home on leave. Then he gets to trailer the project back to Georgia, and the fun will continue there. :D

Matt
 
Pretty decent day on the lv today. Had some more significant snowfall last night, so had to fire up the plow truck for a few hours of plow duty this morning.

Pretty much got out there and sanded down the entire drip rail all the way around. Also blocked out the dash and the firewall again on the engine side. Sprayed another coat of ureathane primer, let it dry all afternoon. Went back out this evening, same program........Sand, coat of primer.....

Actually looks really good right now. I think I'm going to sand the rear drip rail and that might be it. Pretty happy with the dash and the side and front drip rails.

I have to pick up another tube of seam sealer tomorrow for underneath the drip rail in a few places, but I think it might be back on the hoist on Tues. or Wed.?? We'll see? Probably will be on the hoist for 3 days while the firewall gets blocked down a few more times after I clean up where the rotisseri was. Then I have to base/clear the firewall on the hoist before it goes back on :) Whoo...looking forward to pretty white paint on the firewall......

Matt
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