Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread (9 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

buckroseau said:
I guess that's the term I've heard it called. I'm just using regular body filler and applying a paper thin coat if it to the surface....skim coat. That's what the body guys around here call it when you do that?

Matt

Have you used 'icing' for this? Its a polyester glazing that's basically a runny version of filler that really works nicely for these applications. Its about 4x the money of evercoat but its worth it for the tops coats.
 
lowenbrau said:
Have you used 'icing' for this? Its a polyester glazing that's basically a runny version of filler that really works nicely for these applications. Its about 4x the money of evercoat but its worth it for the tops coats.


I've used that stuff before, we used it for a couple applications when I had the body up at my buddy's body shop. Your right, it does work well.....but I had this filler sitting here, so..............;)

Thanks, Matt
 
ya, theres somethin else called a skim coat, its like a filler epoxy, its the very last coat, and its much stonger, and less likly to crack/warp. expensive tho...
 
Not a lot done tonight, had some significant snow fall last night and today so had some plow duty's to tend to tonight, took a couple hours.

I did manage to finish up the drip rails, at least so that there ready to start priming. They still will need a couple coats of primer sanded out, but pretty straight right now.

Also fixed the front of the passenger side cowl. I knew it was a little tweaked, but waited until it was back on the rottiserri, easy to get at. Actually wasn't to bad, but you can see my first pass with the 80 grit block how it hit all the high spots. Little banging with the hammer and I smeared a coat of that glazing compound I picked up today that Lowenbrau made me remember. That stuff worked good there, it was so thin and that glazing compound spreads like butter :)

Might start seam sealing tomorrow, or roll it into the booth and spray a coat of primer on the drip rail for sanding, not sure yet?

Matt
Mvc-001s.webp
Mvc-002s.webp
Mvc-003s.webp
 
last 2
Mvc-004s.webp
Mvc-005s.webp
 
Nothing that looks like anything, but a solid 3+ hours tonight.

First couple pics are the old pieces of metal underneath the wheel wells. I remember many months ago asking if they were stock when I took them off, had to dig them out of the corner to use at templates tonight. So, got those made.

Made lots of brackets and plates tonight that are all basiclly covers. I'm going to use SEM's panel adhesive and glue them in over the bottom prior to paint and undercoating. Trying to seal up any areas where dirt and debris might migrate to and rot things out in the long run. I guess I essentially want the bottom of this to float ;) .

Had to weld a couple captive nuts in the rear where the gas tank cover bolts to. Also sand down the entire dash, but no pics of that.

Hopefully I will finally start seam sealing tomorrow.

Matt
Mvc-001s.webp
Mvc-002s.webp
Mvc-007s.webp
 
more
Mvc-008s.webp
Mvc-009s.webp
Mvc-010s.webp
 
more 2
Mvc-011s.webp
Mvc-012s.webp
Mvc-013s.webp
 
last 3
Mvc-016s.webp
Mvc-015s.webp
Mvc-017s.webp
 
Sooo... when are you going to start holding welding class and supplementing the cruiser budget?
 
Beatifull job Matt. I just got through welding all my firewall holes up also. I decided that the curved firewall was doing nothing except get in the way of the AC system and underdash clearance. I cut the whole thing out and made a sheetmetal panel to fill it in with. Now theres tons of room under the dash. Still have 1.5" valvecover/firewall also.
Gary
Picture 063.webp
 
Doesn't look like much, but this slow stuff burned up another 3 hours tonight.

As soon as I got home I sprayed all my little cover plates that I am going to adhesive in with some DP50. I guess I just want them as rust proof as possible :) Took a little while to rough them up and spray them, but there ready now.

I pretty much spent the next couple hours seam sealing all those little groves in the x-members that go across the ribs in the rear bed, lots to do. Also seam sealed all kinds of little holes near the front brackets.

I had planned to adhesive on those covers tonight, but both tubes of adhesive I bought were junk. One of the chemicals in the tube was solid, they were solid in both :confused: So, un-usable, must have been some old stock or something? Back to the auto parts store tomorrow to get more.

Plan on gettting those covers on tomorrow and more seam sealing.

Edit: Also sprayed the firewall and dash since I had some primer in the gun. Both need a little sanding, but I stress little, both are pretty straight.


Matt
Mvc-003s.webp
Mvc-001s.webp
Mvc-004s.webp
 
Last edited:
more 2
Mvc-005s.webp
Mvc-007s.webp
Mvc-008s.webp
 
last 2
Mvc-009s.webp
Mvc-011s.webp
 
Awsome work pal!


:beer: :beer: :beer:
 
buckroseau said:
...First couple pics are the old pieces of metal underneath the wheel wells. I remember many months ago asking if they were stock when I took them off...

Matt

Not sure if you received an answer on the plate but yes they are stock. Also take a look at the rear wheelwell on the driver's side. When I had mine on it's side the other day, I realized it was a straight shot for dirt, mud, water, etc. to get inside the rear panel under the filler neck. Mudflaps would fix it but you may want to add a shield there as well.

Keep up the great work, I enjoy reading your thread. :beer:
 
Super nice......looks like you have fresh here pretty soon.....I can'nt wait to see it painted.
 
Not lighting any fires.....another 3 hours tonight. Pretty much seam sealed all night.

This is one of those things that has to get worse before it gets better. I applied some more of the SEM stuff in a tube tonight, but also used another product I had ordered. I got this 3M brushable seam sealer. Type of stuff that duplicates the OEM sealer you see in a trunk or something on a new car on the inside. Of course the LV didn't have any seam sealer from the factory, so this is all new to it.

All this stuff is going to get covered up by that tintable bedliner/undercoat stuff I am going to spray on when I'm done seam sealing.

I've also made a decision. I was going to shoot a couple coats of singe stage ureathane on the bottom prior to the undercoating, but I think now I'm going to go from primer right to the undercoat stuff. After talking to a couple other body guys I've decided to do this. One guy thought it wouldn't hurt anything, but thought it was over kill and not required. Another body guy thought the same thing and also thought it might be one other substrate to have possible adhesion problems. So, it's going directly on the primer. I guess on my FJ40 I did a couple years ago, I went from epoxy to that stuff and it has held up amazingly well!!! So I know it works that way for sure also.

Probably another 3 hours seam sealing tomorrow night, maybe be shooting some undercoating Sat.??

Matt
Mvc-001s.webp
Mvc-002s.webp
Mvc-003s.webp
 
My take............

On past projects I have shot undercoating, not my favourite product.

Last couple projects I have shot tintable Rino Lining and then top coated for matching colour. When you tint its really off.

My gig is I like it to match the top side, seems more professional?

Edit, I also like the fact that the paint holds in the elastic properties of the seam sealer and paintable seam sealer for many decades to come verses the undercoating which dries out cracks and allows moisture to be introduced.
 
I'm still blown away by your rotissery.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom