Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread

buckroseau · May 28, 2005

more???

buckroseau · May 28, 2005

last 3 for today

treerootCO · May 28, 2005

Very nice. Keep up the good work.

nuclearlemon · May 29, 2005

treerootCO said:
Very nice. Keep up the good work.

hhhhhmmmm....stuck at work again eh mike???

Mikesta · May 29, 2005

This may be a little off subject but... what Kind of Welder do you use?... what is the model of those Shears and what do you use to grind all the welds flush? I am creating a shopping list right now. Thanks!

buckroseau · May 29, 2005

Mikesta said:
This may be a little off subject but... what Kind of Welder do you use?... what is the model of those Shears and what do you use to grind all the welds flush? I am creating a shopping list right now. Thanks!

Not off subject at all, that's why I/we post pics and info like this on this forum, to learn

At least that's what I think there for? I've gleaned a lot of info and got a lot of help on my cruiser project(s) over the last 2 years on mud, just trying to give something back.

Welder is a Hobart handler 135. It's 110 volt, gas welder. I'm using a mix of CO2 and Argon gas. I really like it, works well. I've used Century's and Lincon welders in this class, I prefer the Hobart. I'm not sure, but Hobart might have discontinued the 135 model, the replacement is the 145. Not sure though, you'd have to check on that one. Price should be around the $500 ballpark, pretty cheap for a gas welder. Whatever welder you buy, make sure it's gas/mig welder. You might think your saving a couple hundred bucks buying a wirefeed welder that is gasless that uses fluxcore wire. That's fine for farm machinery, but if you want a decent weld, it has to be a gas welder. I also prefer the mix gas, straight CO2 doesn't seem to cut it for me.

Shear, Dewalt DW891 heavy duty shear, handles up to 14 gauge metal. Dewalt and others make lighter duty one, but I have the heavy duty, never know if you'll have to go through some heavy stuff? My bench shear/break is a 52", but it can only handle up to 20 ga. Sometimes the hand shear has to do a little heavier stuff. All my replacement parts yesterday were made in my bench shear and break. I did have to hand bend one of the bends on the rocker, because of the radius.

Yes, I grind all my welds flush. 2 tools used to do this: Any 4 1/2" angle grinder, I use a 36 grit 4 1/2" flap disc, I'll take a pic today and post it tonight, works WAY better than a grinding disc. Smoother and more control. Also an airgrinder, I use 2 - 4 1/2" resin dics stacked on top of one another. The airgrinder with the discs has more flex, so it works well in corners and uneven surface's. I'll take a pic of that also.

After I cut that metal/rocker out, I sandblasted everything in that area. The took pics, but didn't clarify that in the pics, you can see surface rust in the first few pics, then blasted, then primed. Then I started welding metal.

Heading out to the shop right now, hopefully another 11 hour productive day

Matt

Mikesta · May 29, 2005

Thanks for the Very informative lesson there. Hope you dont mind a few more questions. First one regarding the Welder you use. *NEWB* I know nothing of these, however I believe these require a few tanks? If so what does the cost run on these? Also, the sandblaster you have, what model is it? I just need a SAND B. (to keep forever), and I dont want to purchase one that will break in 3 years. I believe in purchasing good quality stuff that will last me a lifetime, rather than purchase stuff every 5 years.

Another question, could you take a picture of the tool that you are using to build the floor ribs? What does this tool cost... I need to rebuild a good section of my floor... any reccomendations?

I plan on practicing a ton of welding on this PIG. I dont care If I screw up on that one... then moving to the LV after I think I have it down.

krzyabncanuck · May 29, 2005

Awesome job on the cruiser. Keep up the good work. One day maybe I can do something like this.

buckroseau · May 29, 2005

About a 10.5 hour day today

I know it doesn't look like much, but this is ome time consuming s***.

Started on the other rocker side. I didn't have to cut out quite as much on this side. The other side needed an entire new rocker box made and most of the outside panel. This side about the rear 16".

Cut first, then sandblasted everything, including the inside of the remaining rocker box. I stuck the nozzel in there and let'r buck for a few minutes. Shined a flashlight in there and amazingly clean. Then I stuck my paint gun in there loaded up with PPG DP50 and sprayed for a good minute or so with a lot of pressure. Primer was running off everything in there, made it all the way to the end. I was pretty pleased with that. I wish Toyota would have just did a little priming on the inside of the panels from the factory, then we wouldn't have this problem.

Bent up the pieces for the outside of the rocker panel and the inner, butt welded them in and ground them off. Pics show it all.

I made the 2 rear brackets, that hold I think what are the seatbelt mounts? I bolts threaded into the rear of the floor. One of these brackets was pretty much gone, and the other was on the way. I had to cut out the heavy iron plate on the old brackets, sandblasted them, primed and welded them into my new brackets.

I should be able to finish up all of the rockers and brackets in about 3 to 4 hours tomorrow. Then I will be moving back into the seat area on the inside, re-working seat brackets and making some new stuff. Might get that done tomorrow, although I wouldn't count on it.

My goal was to get the rocker panels and floor done this 3 day weekend, and I think I will accomplish that.

Matt

buckroseau · May 29, 2005

more

buckroseau · May 29, 2005

some more

buckroseau · May 29, 2005

more yet

buckroseau · May 29, 2005

more??

buckroseau · May 29, 2005

last 3

buckroseau · May 29, 2005

Mikesta said:
1. First one regarding the Welder you use. *NEWB* I know nothing of these, however I believe these require a few tanks? If so what does the cost run on these?

2. Also, the sandblaster you have, what model is it? I just need a SAND B. (to keep forever), and I dont want to purchase one that will break in 3 years. I believe in purchasing good quality stuff that will last me a lifetime, rather than purchase stuff every 5 years.

3. Another question, could you take a picture of the tool that you are using to build the floor ribs? What does this tool cost... I need to rebuild a good section of my floor... any reccomendations?

.

1. It requires 1 tank, it is a mix of CO2 and Argon. You should be able to obtain it at a auto parts store, at least that's where I get mine. The NAPA in my town has a machine shop also and they sell gas. I believe I bought the small tank from them for $140 initially. When your gas runs out you bring the tank in and exchange it for a full one for $40. So basicly you buy the tank for a $100 upfront and $40 to fill it evertime, at least that's how they do it here.

2. I'm not sure on the model of sandblaster, got it while ago and the sticker has been blasted off for a while? I don't think I would be to concerned about the brand of blaster, not much to them. A pot and and a hose, not much else. Bear in mind I own a hardware store and a rental business that specializes construction equipment. The compressor I use for that pot blaster is a Diesel ingersol Rand compressor that produces 185 PSI and damm near unlimmted CFM, it doesn't even kick into high idle when I'm blasting. I have a compressor at home that runs my airtools and paint guns that is a 220 volt, 7HP, 60 gal. That compressor could not even come close to keeping up with a sandblaster. Might work for 30 seconds, but then you would have to wait 5 minutes for it to recharge. I do have this little siphon feed sandblaster that I use with that compressor, but it's only for spot jobs i.e. : after welding to get the soot of before priming, small rust spot, etc. My suggestion would be to have a spot blaster for the occasional small spot and when you really need to do a lot, I would go rent the heavy equipment or bring it somewhere. I only mention that because if I didn't own the business I would personally rent it.

If you do decide to buy some heavy duty equipment, get a pot blaster that can hold at least a 100lbs or more. Anything less and you have to stop and keep filling it often. I think the more you look into this you will find that the most cost effective way to blast is to hire it done or rent heavy duty equipment.

3. I can take a pic, but there is a pic of this tool a few pages back in the thread. I have a piece of 4 x 8 sheet metal loaded into it. 52" Shear/break/roller - 3 in 1 tool. I bought mine through a company that I deal with that sells these cheap Ho Chi Mien tools, stuff like Harbor freight sells. The one I got is the exact same one Habor freight sells. I think my cost was $800, exactly what harbor freight sells them for. They make a 30" and 42" one that is cheaper and smaller, but you can't shear or brake 4' wide sheets. If you get one, get the 52", more money, but worth it. This tool has to come by truck, it is big and heavy. I don't have the weight in front of me, but it's around 800 lbs. Freight will run you an additional $200 to $300 bucks. I built a stand for mine on castor wheels, sits nicely in the corner of the garage until needed. Not used a lot, but when you do need it, it is extremely handly. I don't think I would have ever done a project like this without it.......so I would say it is almost needed? Just depends how fussy you are? It saves a lot of time and produce's some nice parts I think.

Also included 2 pics. 1st pic is that flap disc I mentioned for a 4 1/2" grinder. You would be amazed how fast those flap discs take down metal, much faster than a grinding disc and you get a lot nicer finish.

2nd pic is the airgrinder I use, they come with a stiff backer pad, but if you double up 2 - 4 1/2" resin disc's it flex's quite nicely in the coners and curves. Looks kinda wierd in the pic, but when you spin it at 18.000 rpm it straightens out real fast

Hope this helps.

Matt

74fj40 · May 30, 2005

you have some mad skill

Mikesta · May 30, 2005

yea, bow staff, numchux and computer hacking skills for sure! Thanks for going into so much detail on those items! Looks like I need to set up shop for this rig, but this will have to be my first one with this kind of investment... to get all these items, I'm looking at 4k... then I need to build a shop with a paint booth... ouch another 20k+. But I am loving it!

buckroseau · May 30, 2005

Well, didn't get a full 11 hour day in today, more like a 6 hour day. I had a few intertuptions so......

I still got all my floor up front and rocker panels completely done. Finished getting those rear brackets I made fit and welded in. I also boxed in the rear of the rocker panel. It was boxed in from the factory, but it was more of an inverted part on the inside of the rocker box and then spot welded in. I didn't make it like the stock one because first it was a major pain in the ass to do it that way and 2nd, it was another place for it to start rusting again. The way I did it was easier and less apt to rust.

I was hoping to get the brackets and channels welded back in for the seat, but didn't happen. I did get those brackets cut apart, blasted and primed, but they are all going to need a little lovin. That will probably be another 6 hours to get those brackets done and then a good day to get them all welded back in.

I don't know how much I will get done during the week, if anything? I have been building a house now for about 2 1/2 years. The local electrical inspector stopped in the store last week and wanted to do the final inspection. No problem, just need a couple days to wrap up a few things (ceiling fan to hang, few other odds and ends) Super nice guy, just wants to get it off the books. So, that's what I will be doing this week.

Hopefully hit it hard next weekend, and who knows, maybe an evening or so this week?

Matt