1965 FJ40 just bought. A few questions (1 Viewer)

[osamenor]

Hello all!

I am new to the forum and new to FJ40 ownership after close to two decades of wanting one.

I just bought a 1965 with a 2F powerplant that has had a few changes here and there (paint, power steering, shifter and 4wd shifter on floor, side mirrors attached on different parts of vehicle, new wheels/tires, carpet kit).

It's great owning a classic and being able to take it apart with a phillips screw-driver. So far I have gotten the passenger window to roll down (was stuck with corroded felt liner) and added seatbelts.

I am installing the rear door shocks tonight as well as replacing a few screws that had stripped heads.

I have a few questions for the group:

1. I've got the front bench seat, so no real room for a center console. Does anybody have any suggestions for installation of a locking box somewhere in the vehicle?

2. Is it easy to install a pre-fab roll bar from SOR?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

Attached is a photo:

 

[Living in the Past]

side mirrors attached on different parts of vehicle,

So far I have gotten the passenger window to roll down (was stuck with corroded felt liner) and added seatbelts.

I have a few questions for the group:

1. I've got the front bench seat, so no real room for a center console. Does anybody have any suggestions for installation of a locking box somewhere in the vehicle?

2. Is it easy to install a pre-fab roll bar from SOR?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

That looks like a clean 65. Appears to be a later 65. Early 65s had the corrugated hard top.

65 only had one outside mirror on the outside. It would be where your is located. Very common to have a second one added on the passenger's side.

Toyota still sells a replacement for the window felts. There are now rubber which is probably a improvement.

Under the driver's seat there was a lockable storage box. Is yours not there?

I installed a Smittybuilt rollbar in my 68 back in the mid seventies. I bought it from Man-A-Fre (SOR was around back then) I also got a kit that spaced the rear jumps seats in. I had to removed the from seats to get it in but I didn' have to remove the top.

 

[Source3]

I have a few questions for the group:

1. I've got the front bench seat, so no real room for a center console. Does anybody have any suggestions for installation of a locking box somewhere in the vehicle?

2. Is it easy to install a pre-fab roll bar from SOR?

1. Dashman's Dashbox - I think he still makes them. Search for it.
2. Rollbar from Metal Tech.

 

[cjgoode]

That looks like a real nice cruiser, post more pictures.

 

[osamenor]

Thanks for the suggestions. Metal Tech is a lot less expensive.

I do have a box under the seat, but it does not have rear hinges. It's a little goofed up under there with the carpet, too.

I will post some more pics later. Thanks!

 

[osamenor]

This is way overdue, but I am having a problem and I need help from you folks.

I have done the following in the last few years:

1. Front knuckle rebuild (Materials and moral support from Mark at Mark's offroad)
2. Relocated power steering to front frame rail inside bumper (learned to weld)
3. Installed extended shackles from Mark's Offroad
   1. Got death wobble
   2. Installed caster wedges - got rid of wobble
4. Halfway through hardtop restoration
   1. sanded old paint off
   2. POR-15 treatment on rusted metal
   3. 3M 5200 to fill gap between metal and fiberglass
   4. two coats epoxy primer over POR-15
   5. one coat of additional marine primer - will paint with Pettit Easypoxy Semi-gloss white (lots of experience with this stuff on boats)
5. Valve adjustment after a long road trip
6. Installed 16" wheels from Wheel Vintiques - painted dark gray
7. Installed a used roll bar and a bikini top

Here are a few photos. I haven't taken many photos unfortunately. I will follow up with question in next post.

 

[osamenor]

I was having some rough running issues at mid-RPMs and took off the distributor cap, cleaned it up and re-seated the rotor, which had it running really well the next time out. I ran it again and had the same rough running issues that I had before. I tried doing the same thing to fix it, to no avail.

Somewhere in the process my kids were playing in the truck and pulled apart a wire from the ignition switch that left the battery on at all times regardless of whether or not the key was in or in the start position. It also would not shut off. I repaired that connection and now I cannot get the truck to run. The starter runs and the engine makes a loud popping with lots of exhaust. I have also replaced the distributor cap and wires to plugs. Can you guys help me troubleshoot the problem? It seems like ignition, but I'm out of my league at this point.

 

[middlecalf]

Coil is probably a goner since it was left on, so not getting enough spark to fully ignite fuel mixture, hence extra exhaust.

 

[4Cruisers]

What vintage 2F engine do you have? What distributor/coil/igniter set-up? What carburetor? That info will help getting you the best answers.

 

[osamenor]

What vintage 2F engine do you have? What distributor/coil/igniter set-up? What carburetor? That info will help getting you the best answers.

Thanks for having a read. It's actually an F engine from 1969 - when I wrote the into in 2013 I didn't know the difference. Pertronix electronic ignition with flamethrower coil, Rochester carb. Everything is old, but carb seems OK. My problem seems to be an electronic/spark problem rather than a fuel problem.

 

[65swb45]

If power was left on, chances are the Pertronix has failed. Very common scenario for them.

 

[osamenor]

If power was left on, chances are the Pertronix has failed. Very common scenario for them.

Thanks Mark. I'll call you to order some new parts.